IRON REMOVERS . ..... How Do I Use This Stuff

S

ShawnF350

New member
I used Iron X on my Explorer in the spring. I think I washed the car and then when it was mostly dry sprayed the paint down. I used an old wet wash mitt and gently went over the paint after a few minutes. Then rinsed. Ikinda followed the directions if I remember.

For the wheels I just sprayed them down and rinsed after a few minutes.

I have about 4oz of IronX left. I now have a bottle of HD 3D Iron Remover and BriteMax Iron Max .
How do you go about decontamination of paint and wheels?
I know the 3d can be diluted.
Does anyone dilute it or is it best to use full strength.
How about the other brands . .do you dilute ?


Do you still clay afterwards?


I just want to know if I'm using this correctly before I go through two more bottles.
 
I think most clay after the ironx. Idea is that it makes claying a lot faster since there's less to pull from the paint.

Personally, I'm in no hurry to use an iron product again. Granted I've only used it on about 5 cars but there was no purple bleeding at all. Doesn't seem like a very necessary product in my experience. Great in theory, especially if you live next to a steel mill.
 
Shawn im pretty new at this and i have had great luck with iron x as directed. I use a grout sponge from menards cut in half ,after appling to paint after i have sprayed all panels i go back and gently wipe panels with sponge. I live up north and our car are full of rust blooms from winter. I make sure to apply in shade so it can dwell for 3-5 min without drying out. I then rewash as i feel it takes more than a rinse to remove. I will follow with nano and glide if im polishing or fine polyclay if im not
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Shawn if you go to the CarPro website they have specific instructions on how to use IronX (and this applies to all brands of these products). Even a pointer on how to use less. Works out best if you use it before claying.
 
Where I live we have trains that come through what feels like 10 times a day, so I get stopped at a train crossing more than three times a week. The first time I used an iron remover (DoDo) you could see tons of red running off the car onto the concrete. This made me a believer. The car is red, so it was difficult to see a color change on the car. I use an iron remover once a year when I do a full detail on my cars, more than that would be, IMHO, overkill, but in my area it is definitely necessary.
 
Anyone use Sonax fallout remover? Sonax seems to make great stuff and I know people like them, but never see that one mentioned.
 
jrock645 said:
I think most clay after the iron x. Idea is that it makes claying a lot faster since there's less to pull from the paint.

Personally, I'm in no hurry to use an iron product again. Granted I've only used it on about 5 cars but there was no purple bleeding at all. Doesn't seem like a very necessary product in my experience. Great in theory, especially if you live next to a steel mill.
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Yeah, I felt that way too but eventually I came across a couple of cars with an iron contamination issue. Normally I just do 2-3 test sprays of iron remover to see if there's any iron in the paint. On two occasions, the paint had iron from the rocker panels to the roof even the plastic bumper covers. After the iron remover did its work there was almost nothing left to clay...




Even on this black car you can see the color change.



It really depends on how neglected the paint is and where the owner parks and stores their car.

P.S. yes I always clay after iron removal (using clay alternative the majority of the time) as I intend to correct the paint when I go to the length of dealing with iron contamination but if your doing this for profit and your not going to correct the paint I think you could get away with a quick wash and LSP.
 
I have used the Sonax Fallout with great success. Every time I have used it it has cleaned everything and made claying so much easier. Sonax Fallout is my first choice of "iron out"
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
Normally I just do 2-3 test sprays of iron remover to see if there's any iron in the paint. On two occasions, the paint had iron from the rocker panels to the roof even the plastic bumper covers. After the iron remover did its work there was almost nothing left to clay...




Even on this black car you can see the color change.



It really depends on how neglected the paint is and where the owner parks and stores their car.

P.S. yes I always clay after iron removal (using clay alternative the majority of the time) as I intend to correct the paint when I go to the length of dealing with iron contamination but if your doing this for profit and your not going to correct the paint I think you could get away with a quick wash and LSP.
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Great idea with a few test spots. Working at a railroad I'll do it yearly but a good way to check customers cars.
 
Question about the IronX, after using a mitt with IronX is it safe to wash the mitt with the other towels that I use on the paint or should I be washed separately and only using for the IronX?

Did a little more searching looks like I can just pick up a grout sponge for cheap.
 
Guess I might be the only guy here who still uses the ValuGard products for this sort of thing. Their acidic/Iron-removing product is the "B" part of their ABC system and is used undiluted.
 
ShawnF350 said:
I used Iron X on my Explorer in the spring. I think I washed the car and then when it was mostly dry sprayed the paint down. I used an old wet wash mitt and gently went over the paint after a few minutes. Then rinsed. Ikinda followed the directions if I remember.

For the wheels I just sprayed them down and rinsed after a few minutes.

I have about 4oz of IronX left. I now have a bottle of HD 3D Iron Remover and BriteMax Iron Max .
How do you go about decontamination of paint and wheels?
I know the 3d can be diluted.
Does anyone dilute it or is it best to use full strength.
How about the other brands . .do you dilute ?


Do you still clay afterwards?


I just want to know if I'm using this correctly before I go through two more bottles.
Click to expand...

I've used both Iron-X and BriteMax Iron Max. I found they work best full strength on a dry cool surface.

The last few times I used an Iron-decontaminate I did Mike Phillips aggressive wash (Iron-X on dry dirty paint and wheels). I do a few test spots first to check for iron contamination in various places (roof, wheel wells, bumpers) to see if contamination is wide spread or isolated (let it dwell 5-15mins depending on environmentals). Then I blast with a foam cannon and wash using the foam and one bucket with a grit guard to make sure the mitt stays clean. Then I follow up with high-pressure rinse typically you'll still see the iron remover turning purple. Then I use two buckets with grit guards and a clay alternative mitt (medium grade as this is an aggressive pre-compound wash) with some meg's hyper wash. I use some UWW+ and a few WW towels to dry just after I clay. Once dry I typically spot compound the scratches (unless the whole car is swirled) and do a full car polish and top with a LSP.

I do the wheels the same way. Full strength iron remover on dry cool wheels (let it dwell 5-15mins depending on environmentals), then blast with foam and scrub with a wheel mitt and/or wheel woolies, clay bar (not alternative), waterless wash/dry, and apply Collinite 845 as my LSP.

You can always dilute, but I wouldn't. Just use fewer sprays if you want to conserve product as the foam will help to dilute any remaining iron removers...
 
Celticsfan said:
Question about the IronX, after using a mitt with IronX is it safe to wash the mitt with the other towels that I use on the paint or should I be washed separately and only using for the IronX?

Did a little more searching looks like I can just pick up a grout sponge for cheap.
Click to expand...

Depends, if you rise you mitts out very well before just tossing in the washer with other towels. I actually forgot to rinse my iron-x mitt once and the rest of my towels smelled like iron-x. I just rewashed with a long hot presoak and some towel klean and they came out fine (took an extra wash at worse).
 
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