Intro to GYEON quartz Q2 Mohs

Not to blow this thread off track, but Im thinking when I run out of overcoat, what would be something else I could replace it with to "Maintain" thats just as good Or better?
 
There is an active thread on this site, started by Budget Plan that is comparing OverCoat vs 22PLE VS1 FC vs Hydrosilex Recharge. I currently use 22PLE VS! FC and like it a lot, but am considering useing Gyeon Can Coat in the future. It`s the most hydrophobic product I`ve ever used and is advertised as a 6 month product. I can get 8-10 cars out of a bottle.


Not to blow this thread off track, but Im thinking when I run out of overcoat, what would be something else I could replace it with to "Maintain" thats just as good Or better?
 
I will never be without CanCoat on my shelf. It is one of the handiest, most effective, easiest to use and most entertaining products I`ve run across.

Instant gratification that lasts a long time.

Have used it to `refresh` a variety of coatings, Gyeon and otherwise, that have lost a bit if their luster over time.

I`m thinking a polish with Gyeon Primer, then some CanCoat might be nice...heard that around here somewhere, sounds like an intriguing combo.

Have used CanCoat on top of Prime, on top of One, on top of Mohs, on top of Gtechniq, on top of Cquartz...always a winner, always an improvement.
 
CanCoat is Awesome. On my daily driver I got a year+ except for the lower panels behind the wheels. Those where around 10 months.

Super easy to apply sacrificial layer. That has outstanding durability. Phenomenal water behavior and high gloss as the cherry on top.
 
CanCoat continues to impress. It is extremely capable, goes way past the 6 months listed on the packaging, and looks darn good. Polish with Primer to lay down a base layer of SiO2 and then apply CanCoat and you`ve got a very good combo in place.
 
Jeff:

I appreciate all the responses here. I have really been liking Gyeon, and I`ve been pretty happy with Mohs on my personal vehicle - going into 2 years now. It needs a refresh due to weather and washing abuse (mostly by the dealer).

How does Syncro respond to water spot removers?

I`m convinced that Mohs is top notch, but when I hit it with Water Spot Remover, the hydrophobicity went to the dogs. (I have a thread somewhere on it.)

What about Syncro and water spot removers? Let`s say it gets trashed by the water spot removers, would it suffice to just put a layer of Skin back on? Obviously we could do Can Coat or Cure....

(Sent via my mobile device...)
 
Jeff:

I appreciate all the responses here. I have really been liking Gyeon, and I`ve been pretty happy with Mohs on my personal vehicle - going into 2 years now. It needs a refresh due to weather and washing abuse (mostly by the dealer).

How does Syncro respond to water spot removers?

I`m convinced that Mohs is top notch, but when I hit it with Water Spot Remover, the hydrophobicity went to the dogs. (I have a thread somewhere on it.)

What about Syncro and water spot removers? Let`s say it gets trashed by the water spot removers, would it suffice to just put a layer of Skin back on? Obviously we could do Can Coat or Cure....

(Sent via my mobile device...)

You`re very welcome! And glad to hear Mohs has been performing for you.

Question, how often would you say you`re using WaterSpot? It is certainly a strong chemical and can knock down some of the hydrophobic properties of coatings. I would say it will have the same affect over SYNCRO as it did Mohs, but can be brought back to life easily with something like WetCoat or Cure.

I am waiting to hear back from GYEON HQ on an official position on SKIN used down the road as a top up. I don`t see a major issue, but want to hear back from GYEON formally.
 
Aloha Jeff,

I recently applied Gyeon Syncro to my vehicle (Suburban) and did 3 coats of Mohs and Syncro on top of that. Everything looks good during the day, however, at night under a street lamp in a shopping center I noticed some streaking. I am located in Hawaii and it was very humid that day so the Mohs was flashing pretty fast. I made sure to do small sections and wipe off all the residue left over. Any other advice you can give me on how to prevent the streaking?

Also, I did about 60% of my vehicle. I have a small amount of Mohs left so I purchased a new 30ml bottle. I noticed on the 30ml label it is made in Japan and the bottle that came with Syncro is made in South Korea. Is it ok to put the Japan version on top of the South Korean? Mahalo! B)
 
Aloha Jeff,

I recently applied Gyeon Syncro to my vehicle (Suburban) and did 3 coats of Mohs and Syncro on top of that. Everything looks good during the day, however, at night under a street lamp in a shopping center I noticed some streaking. I am located in Hawaii and it was very humid that day so the Mohs was flashing pretty fast. I made sure to do small sections and wipe off all the residue left over. Any other advice you can give me on how to prevent the streaking?

Also, I did about 60% of my vehicle. I have a small amount of Mohs left so I purchased a new 30ml bottle. I noticed on the 30ml label it is made in Japan and the bottle that came with Syncro is made in South Korea. Is it ok to put the Japan version on top of the South Korean? Mahalo! B)

The only time I have seen streaking happen with SYNCRO is when the Q2 SKIN product is applied to heavy. It wants to be applied in a light to moderate amount of product. I tested going on way too light and way too heavy, and when I went on heavy I could get it to be a bit hard to remove. It would look fine to the naked eye like all excess product was removed but under an inspection light I could see remaining product. I always use a handheld light when removing coatings for this exact reason.

Is it an older bottle of Mohs (clear bottle) or a newer (frosted bottle)?
 
The only time I have seen streaking happen with SYNCRO is when the Q2 SKIN product is applied to heavy. It wants to be applied in a light to moderate amount of product. I tested going on way too light and way too heavy, and when I went on heavy I could get it to be a bit hard to remove. It would look fine to the naked eye like all excess product was removed but under an inspection light I could see remaining product. I always use a handheld light when removing coatings for this exact reason.

Is it an older bottle of Mohs (clear bottle) or a newer (frosted bottle)?

Aloha Jeff, the 30ml bottle is clear. I`ll apply a light coating of Skin in the remaining panels. Also, how long should I wait to apply Cure?
 
Aloha Jeff, the 30ml bottle is clear. I`ll apply a light coating of Skin in the remaining panels. Also, how long should I wait to apply Cure?

When I first used Syncro, I just skipped the Cure...didn`t want to contaminate the delightful slickness and shine of Skin on it`s own. Instructions also state Cure use is optional. Have to say, so far, glad I didn`t use the Cure that might diminished the hydrophobics; got a look at the vehicle I sued Syncro on, tossed some water at it and while it sheeted very well, the behavior of the beads left on the hood was unlike anything I`ve seen before.

Usually I`ll hit some beads with a little shot of air to see how well/easily they move and when I did this on the hood of the Syncro vehicle, it moved the beads across the surface with less resistance than any product I have seen. The beads moved almost like mercury did (back when we were allowed to play with mercury, anyway) with such little resistance on the surface it was really mesmerizing...very very little friction and just a little `motivation` would shoot the well-defined bead across the length of the hood.

Be sure to try it; it`s like a Lays potato chip, you won`t be able to stop at just one. Very, very cool.
 
Aloha Jeff, the 30ml bottle is clear. I`ll apply a light coating of Skin in the remaining panels. Also, how long should I wait to apply Cure?

I agree with Budget on not using cure. As mentioned it is optional per the instruction booklet. I would say to use it down the line as maintenance but you may not want to after experiencing how crazy hydrophobic the surface coating is.

When I first used Syncro, I just skipped the Cure...didn`t want to contaminate the delightful slickness and shine of Skin on it`s own. Instructions also state Cure use is optional. Have to say, so far, glad I didn`t use the Cure that might diminished the hydrophobics; got a look at the vehicle I sued Syncro on, tossed some water at it and while it sheeted very well, the behavior of the beads left on the hood was unlike anything I`ve seen before.

Usually I`ll hit some beads with a little shot of air to see how well/easily they move and when I did this on the hood of the Syncro vehicle, it moved the beads across the surface with less resistance than any product I have seen. The beads moved almost like mercury did (back when we were allowed to play with mercury, anyway) with such little resistance on the surface it was really mesmerizing...very very little friction and just a little `motivation` would shoot the well-defined bead across the length of the hood.

Be sure to try it; it`s like a Lays potato chip, you won`t be able to stop at just one. Very, very cool.

I don`t know if you have had the chance to wash whatever vehicle has syncro but it was something to see when I foamed the car with some shampoo and nothing was sticking to the surface. Awesome stuff so far at 2 months.
 
Glad to see so much enthusiasm for Syncro. Mohs has performed very well over the past 2y for me. Was going to go with Sparkle+ and Top Coat, but I`m not sure if the extra expense will be worth it to me. Since ACC has a sale on Syncro now... :)

(Sent via my mobile device...)

EDIT: don`t talk me out of it, because it`s a done deal!
 
I`m thinking a polish with Gyeon Primer, then some CanCoat might be nice...heard that around here somewhere, sounds like an intriguing combo.

that is my intro coating package and I`m very excited to use the primer and can coat but have yet to sell it. I even offer it mobile (for garage`s of course)
I was thinking about putting some can coat on my truck over the other coatings that are in need of some form of refresh
 
512detail;2132172 I was thinking about putting some can coat on my truck over the other coatings that are in need of some form of refresh[/QUOTE said:
That will work nicely. I use Cancoat on both our coated cars.

(Sent via my mobile device...)
 
that is my intro coating package and I`m very excited to use the primer and can coat but have yet to sell it. I even offer it mobile (for garage`s of course)
I was thinking about putting some can coat on my truck over the other coatings that are in need of some form of refresh
The Gyeon Primer (which sat on my shelf for 6 months before I remembered I had it) has been one of my more recent `pleasant surprises` wirh regards to products.

I used it on a relatively new (800 miles) Lunar Silver Honda HRV that I was trying Gyeon One on. It looked so good (definitely had that coating `look`) after the Primer that I was slmost questioning whether it needed the coating afterwards.

Just 2 small drops on a pad per section, very smooth and pleasurable polishing experience. Not a lot of cut but in the right situation, I definitely want to use it again.

Hard to tell if it made coating application easier as I had never used Gyeon One to notice a difference. I think Primer is a pretty cool product; have never used Essence so I really have nothing to compare it to though.

As for CanCoat over other coatings, I`ve used it over year old Cquartz and CSL and it`s a nice easy way to refresh them.
 
that is my intro coating package and I`m very excited to use the primer and can coat but have yet to sell it. I even offer it mobile (for garage`s of course)
I was thinking about putting some can coat on my truck over the other coatings that are in need of some form of refresh

Really nice combo to work with. Both user friendly with leaving a great look.

The Gyeon Primer (which sat on my shelf for 6 months before I remembered I had it) has been one of my more recent `pleasant surprises` wirh regards to products.

I used it on a relatively new (800 miles) Lunar Silver Honda HRV that I was trying Gyeon One on. It looked so good (definitely had that coating `look`) after the Primer that I was slmost questioning whether it needed the coating afterwards.

Just 2 small drops on a pad per section, very smooth and pleasurable polishing experience. Not a lot of cut but in the right situation, I definitely want to use it again.

Hard to tell if it made coating application easier as I had never used Gyeon One to notice a difference. I think Primer is a pretty cool product; have never used Essence so I really have nothing to compare it to though.

As for CanCoat over other coatings, I`ve used it over year old Cquartz and CSL and it`s a nice easy way to refresh them.

Glad you enjoyed it. I think it`s pretty versatile like Essence in terms of using it with a more aggressive pad to get some good correction out of it. I was able to get some good correction with a Rupes Green Pad and both Essence and Q2 Primer were enough to remove light to moderate defects. Of course the hardness of the paint will factor in as well. Primer is easier to use compared to Essence from personal experience.

Even Gyeon Polish is a pleasure to work with.
 
I have some left over Syncro. Is it ok to apply it on chrome trim/grill or anywhere else? I don`t want it to go to waste. I would apply it to my wheels but I already have Gyeon Rim on it already. :)
 
Going to try the Syncro Kit on my wife`s next car which we will be buying soon. Just wish Skin was available as a stand alone product too.
 
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