Important Question About Wetsanding And Zaino??

L

LICamaro85

New member
If I were to wetsand with 3000 or even 4000 do you think that the Zaino PC on a Yellow LC CCS smart pad with a PC would take all of the scratches out. Or am I going to have to go to a wool pad. I also have light cut compound that I could try with the yellow pad as well... Do you think either of these will work?







Thanks,
 
I know that some folks claim they can get wetsanding marks out with a PC, but I would not try it. From what I understand a wool pad will not work with a PC either.
 
I think you could get rid of 3000 grit sanding marks with a rotary and ZPC. You might be able to get it done with a PC and compound but it will probably take a while.
 
You may get some of the marks out with a PC, but I doubt they will come out 100%, also wouldn't use ZPC, I'd try a stronger compound and finish up with ZPC after sanding marks are out to bring back the clarity.
 
I have wet sanded hard VW and Subaru clear and gotten them out with one to two passes of SIP and an Orange pad on a PC. It all just depends how much you sand and how hard the clear is. ZPC on a yellow is just an ill-matched combo. Mild polishes like that belong with white pads or lighter cut.
 
I have a rotary and wool pads to go with it but i'm just afraid to burn threw the paint with the rotary and wool pad. Its a 85 camaro but has been painted with ppg products so I dont know how hard/soft the clear is. All I'm trying to do is get the little orange peel it has out. When I do a full detail the car looks amazing but to me I notice the little orange peel that it has and it just bugs me.



Im not sure if I should just leave it or wetsand with some 3000 and try out the rotary and a wool pad and just be very very careful.... OR go with a yellow pad with some mild compound and just keep working it until it comes out.



Also will ZPC on a orange pad take out the majority of swirls and light scratches on a 1994 Chevy Clear?



Just some pictures to show the orange peel...



Thanks A Bunch Guys,
 

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Seriously, I would just leave it. Wet sanding the entire car is a huge job.... huge enough that obviously the people who painted it didn't even want to do. Using a yellow pad and just going at it until the peel is gone would not be worth it, IMO, and could very likely take off more clear than wet sanding. Also, the fact that you are afraid (not a bad thing) you might burn through the clear is another sign that it may not be the job for you to do. I say just do as good of a detail as you can with the mild to moderate intensity products you have and just be happy where it's at. ZPC on an orange pad will work, but it's not gonna get you even close to where you want to be in terms or removing peal. At best, it will remove slight scratching and marring on the stock GM clear. But, it's been repainted, so that clear could be any level of hardness.
 
Think about this....



If you have sanding marks from wetsanding, you will have to remove all the paint around the scatch to make them even.



With a PC (even if you are able to remove them, which IMO, you won't) you are still removing the same amount of paint (the tops of the scratches), but it will take longer and you will probably chase the scratches down a little and remove more clearcoat then you would with a rotary.



So if you have wool and a rotary, I would try that.
 
I think I may just leave it for a while...



I have just one more question for you guys, Which one of these will cut more?



Zaino ZPC or The Wax Shop Safe Cut HD Swirl And Haze Remover?



I am unsure which of these is stronger when it comes to cutting.



Also the turtle wax polishing and rubbing compounds "rocks in a can" that come in the white plastic "can" are too ruff to use with a PC and a yellow pad correct?



I was thinking about testing a panel by wetsanding it then using a yellow pad with some polishing compound by turtle wax to see if that would take the scratches out.



Of BTW im not afraid to use the rotary I've polished out a few cars prob 8-9 with a rotary and wool pads but its my car thats why I am nervous. I have painted both my brothers mustang's and color sanded and compounded so its not that i am inexperianced its just that I am I guess a little nervous since its my car and the paint job was 11,000 alone.





Thanks for all your help,
 
LICamaro85 said:
the paint job was 11,000 alone.
Click to expand...



And it has orange peal like that? :confused: Holy geez.



ZPC is one of the weakest polishes out there (and by polishes, I am referring to those with actual cut, not the polishes that are more of a glaze). It has diminishing abrasives so it can get the very light swirls and spider webs out while finishing down nicely. But really don't expect a lot out of it at all. If an AIO is a 0 cut and Menzerna Super Intensive polish is a 5, ZPC would probably be ~1.5, depending on your pad of course.



Don't use any of those OTC compounds by Turtle Wax. They are not meant for use via PC or rotary. The strongest stuff you'll probably find in most stores is the 3M Perfect-It Rubbing/Polishing Compound which can be used via PC/Rotary. If you really want, go ahead and try wet sanding on an inconspicuous area. I'm a learner by experience as well, and sometimes you just have to try things out for yourself.
 
I dont think the car has THAT bad of orange peel.. do you? It was so much because the entire car was media blasted to bare metal then por15'ed then primed and painted.



So you think The Wax Shop product has more of a cut?



Also the Zaino AIO feels like it has a small amount of cut, when you put a little bit on your fingertips you can feel the grit it has.





Thanks,
 
In my personal opinion, there is no way I would pay $11k for that much peal. I'm really not trying to bash your paint job, but I would not have accepted that.



Try out the AIO on some marring and you'll see what I'm talking about with 0 cut (I should have worded that better to show that zero doesn't mean absolutely zero abrasives but rather the amount of cutting you can expect to see). It's meant for oxidation and contaminant removal for the most part, with slight imperfection removal. Per Zaino... "With an emulsifying cleaner and very mild abrasive, Z-AIO gently cleans and protects..." and when they say gentle they mean it.



I have no experience with the wax shop stuff, so I can't compare anything. Best bet is to just try both out and see which works best.
 
I have an 05 Mustang GT... Black. Due to someone raking a handful of rocks across my hood, I had to wet sand the hood and buff it back out.



I used 1500 (Some were very deep), followed by 2000 and 3000 wet sand. I then used a PC, some Edge Orange pads and Optimum Compound. Followed this with Optimum polish and it came out great. It took about 4 hours total for the sanding and buffing.
 
I wetsanded an entire dodge ram that had trashed paint and the pc did fine. Process was wetsand with 3M 2000 grit, OHC on yellow pad, and OP on white pad. It came out great.
 
what is OHC and OP...



Looks like I will be tackeling this in the next week or two



You bet I will post before and after shots of the entire car plus the worst areas.
 
Nevermind i found out what they were.



you think since I am sanding with 3000 I could use the OC with a orange pad instead of the OHC and a yellow pad.. Or maybe the OC with a yellow pad?



whats do you guys think?





Thanks,
 
Least aggressive method first. Always. Try the OHC on an orange, and if that isn't cutting it (no pun intended) then move to the more aggressive yellow.
 
Wouldnt the least aggresive way be the OC on an orange pad then a yellow, then to OHC on an orange then a yellow?



Im not sure just asking..



Thanks,
 
Per Autogeek...



"As with any compound, Optimum Hyper Compound may produce a slight hazing on the paint. This is a normal byproduct of leveled paint. Optimum Compound or Polish will easily remove this haze and restore the gloss."



Sounds to me like OC is more intensive than OHC, although I've never used either.



And, yellow pads are more aggressive than orange, if we're talking LC pads here.
 
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