I'm such a ricer, modding the Honda...

Saw a '71 Chevelle today, definitely wish I had it back...but not with 4 wheel drum brakes this time!


 


I actually took those pictures in the early 80s, let my brother do the burnout (he had a built 340 in a '71 Challenger with 4.56 gears) since I trusted him more with my car than my camera. Black and white because I was taking photography in college and that's what I knew how to develop and print. 


 


Unfortunately, sticking with 1.94/1.50 valves in the 041 heads was the limiting factor (well, besides traction) since other than a 3 angle valve job they were stock. I was shifting around 6800 rpms when I should have been able to take it to 7400 rpms or so to take full advantage of the cam and intake. More headwork and some slicks and I probably would have been running bottom 12s in the mid 110's. 


 


The Strip Dominator was a nice improvement over the Dominator II I previously had. The Dominator II was a dual plane intake similar to the factory LT-1 intake. Didn't really lose anything on the bottom...although with 4.11s and a 4000 stall it would be hard to tell. But midrange and on, clear advantage to the Strip Dominator. 


 


That's a vacuum gauge on the fender liner. Helpful tuning tool. 


 


Had a couple other fun cars, 1977 Cutlass Supreme Brougham I swapped a 455 into and a '74 Z/28. 4 speed car, 3.73s and the only option was the Z/28 option. Didn't even have a tach!
 
Hey Scott, meant to ask you...


 


My Chevelle has a black vinyl top (original) and amazingly enough, it is in great shape.  Do you have a product(s) you recommend for cleaning and conditioning this ancient GM vinyl from the 60's?  I was about to pick up some Megs 39 but didn't.


 


The only thing I have on hand is some CG VRP.... and to put it lightly, not really a product I enjoy but if it will fit the bill, that's fine... just interested in your take.


 


Thank you,


-Gabe
 
I'd go with something with a minimal sheen like Meguiars #40, Optimum Protectant Plus or 303 and use as needed. Biggest thing it keeping it clean. 
 
I wonder how some of today's "work on most anything" sealants would do on a vinyl top, something like Ultima's TTGP or Garry Dean's BIS.  I sure wouldn't use anything that can run in the rain (bad memories of using Armor All on one back in the day).
 
Blacked out my grill, figured all the trim was black so the factory grey wasn't working on the grill. 


 





 





 


And my son got rid of his rusted out Camry and picked up an '00 Honda Prelude. Pretty nice little car, seems sound mechanically. Repaint with excessive orange peel and questionable clear coat thickness, so just lightly knocked down the worst areas, polished it out and applied Opti-Coat 2.0. 


 


 
Scottwax- Hey, that black grille does look a lot better.


 


Your son oughta get a lot of good use out of the Prelude.
 
Accumulator said:
Scottwax- Hey, that black grille does look a lot better.


 


Your son oughta get a lot of good use out of the Prelude.


 


He's already changed the wheels on his Prelude, we found a crack in one of them. And since he liked my RSX wheels, guess what he got? 


 





 


And I just swapped out my hollow, 25.4 mm front anti-roll bar for the solid 27 mm TL Type S front anti-roll bar, also replaced the original LCA bushings with Moogs. Really tightened up the front end. 
 
Scottwax- Good on you guys for discovering that crack!  Too many people never spot such stuff and then wonder why they're dead.


 


Yeah, those "twisted 5-spokes" look nice on that, compliment the vehicle's lines very well.  Easy to clean too, huh?


 


Does the Prelude have any built-in rust issues?  I'm thinking about how some Hondas have spongey/foam-stuff in places (by the fuel-filler door IIRC) that retains moisture and makes 'em all rust out eventually.


 


With such a big front-bar upgrade, you gonna do the rear one?  I'm generally all about getting the biggest/stiffest *REAR* bar, especially on something that might be generally prone to understeer (as I assume your FWD car is).


 


How are the Moog bushings these days?  I ask because their Problem Solver parts for Crown Vics have suddenly become, uhm....less than swell, prompting me to switch to the premium line from Raybestos.
 
My son is the one who first noticed the crack, once he pointed it out, I told him not to drive his car until we replaced the wheels. He was on craigslist in seconds, looking for wheels. No rust issues I could find, its an original Texas car so that definitely helps. 


 


I replaced the rear bar first, TL-S bar is 20 mm vs 13 mm. Might eventually go aftermarket for a larger one. Even with the bigger bar up front now, thanks to the larger rear bar, there is less understeer than there originally was. 


 


Moog bushings are definitely an upgrade over stock, at least compared to Honda OE parts. 
 
Scottwax- Glad to hear no rust issues!


 


Ah, OK..roger that on the rear bar.


 


Nice that the Moog stuff for Hondas is still high-quality. I can't imagine why they dropped the ball on (at least certain) domestic applications.
 
Re: I'm such a ricer, modding the Honda...

Nice work, remember increasing the front ARB will bring back a little of the front understeer, still likley less than original but more than rear ARB only..

Bugger just read your post re uprated rear and bushes and maintained reduced understeer.. ignor etha above..
 
Re: I'm such a ricer, modding the Honda...

Nice work, remember increasing the front ARB will bring back a little of the front understeer, still likley less than original but more than rear ARB only..

Bugger just read your post re uprated rear and bushes and maintained reduced understeer.. ignor etha above..

nice 2yr bump :)
 
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