Crimson -- I also am a newbie, when it comes to detailing. Having driven for 24yrs, I've seen a lot of the basics that work and don't work.
As suggested, it comes down to technique; get that right, and it almost doesn't matter what products you use. This is detailing's First Principle, in my opinion. Take short cuts on the techniques or steps, and you get what you get.
Short answer: purchase the Autopia detailing guide and read it. Then, read it again. You'll notice that it's all about technique, focusing on the prep steps. Scan through previous discussions on Autopia for pointers from Scottwax and a few other folks who've been around the block when it comes to techniques that work.
Long answer, from a newb to a a newb ...
Basic items, which you'll need regardless of whether you've got blems to deal with or not:
* exceptional cloths, whether microfiber or 100% cotton terry; get 2-3 dozen, since you'll then be less likely to rub one over the surface that's already clogged with chemical grit;
* if fixing blems by hand, 2-3 dozen of those little foam applicators;
* a good quick-detailer, such as Pinnacle Crystal Mist or Meguiar's Final Inspection, being aware of what final coat you'll be doing so that the detailer will be compatible (ie, Crystal Mist has wax in it, so you'd not want to mix with a polymer);
* a good "wax" -- traditional carnauba wax, or a synthetic polymer.
My list of products:
* microfiber drying cloth -- a couple of the Big Blue Towel, from ProperAutoCare.com;
* microfiber cloths for removing glazes/waxes -- 2-3 dozen Dragon's Breath cloths, from ProperAutoCare.com;
* microfiber buffing cloths -- 2-3 of the Magic Towel, from ProperAutoCare.com;
* blem removal -- the Meguiar's professional line in varying grits (Dual Action Cleaner Polish, #9 Swirl Remover 2.0, #7 Show Car Glaze).
* speeding the blem removal process -- Porter Cable random/orbital polishing machine, with 2 orange pads, 4 white pads, 3 black pads ... keeping them washed and clean before you re-use;
* final topper/wax -- Pinnacle Souveran paste wax, from ProperAutoCare.com;
* vinyl/plastic/rubber -- 303 Aerospace Protectant;
* engine bay -- Eimann Fabrik hi-intensity cleaner, EF citrus degreaser;
* cleaning/protecting rims -- Eagle One 'orange' cleaner; then several coats of NuFinish, since it lasts a very long time.
As for technique ...
Decide what you're working with:
* perfect paint -- then a one-step approach can work (ie, wax only);
* marred paint -- correct the marring, then seal in the good looks.
Decide on the techniques you'll use:
* never touch a dirty finish without first washing.
* never run a towel/cloth over the paint in circles.
* always use clean cloths, turning every couple of strokes.
* always apply coatings in the shade onto cool paint.
* fix the blems before putting on a final sealing coat.
Clean that surface. Wash it, use a quality clay bar to remove all the grit you can't see, then wash it again to remove any film the clay bar left behind. Then, use a deep-cleaning paint cleanser to get it squeaky clean and prepared for the next step.
Fix the blems. Got marring such as scratches, swirls, hazing, oxidation or any other blemishes? If you don't get rid of them first, you'll simply be sealing them in with your final coat/wax. I just got a Porter-Cable random/orbital polisher with a variety of pads. It's not magic. It simply speeds up what you'd do by hand anyway. By a long margin, though, and that's the beauty of it; you'll end up with strong arms and a smile on your face, instead of being pooped out and cranky. A car's finish that's dead do the world can be restored to good looks in one day, generally; a finish with minor hazing and swirls, in half that time. Use the least-aggressive chemical/pad combination needed to get the blem corrected. If it's not enough, bump up the grit; if it's enough, then drop down in grit until you've finished with the final polish and it's glossy and perfect.
Finally, seal in those good looks: any good wax will work. Some folks prefer the synthetic/polymer route, some the traditional carnauba wax route. I've tried both. Each has pros and cons. Frankly, though, at this point you've got perfect paint via correction of all the blems ... anything will look good, now. You can even pick a simple cleaner/wax all-in-one item and use it to keep things well protected. Want a bit better depth and glow, then pick a top-notch carnauba wax such as Pinnacle Souveran or Meguiar's #26. Want a bit better shine and reflectivity, then pick a good polymer such as Zaino, or perhaps the new Meguiar's NXT.
For vinyl, I find the 303 Aerospace Protectant to work very well. Use it sparingly, and go over the surface mildly as much as is needed to restore the finish. It works well on rubber seals, too.
For black plastic trim, I've used Forever Black with good success. Over time, it really helps restore trim to a solid black.
