If your PAINT could talk, what do you think it would ask for?

I

imported_Burlyq

New member
If your PAINT could talk, what do you think it would tell you to preserve it after you leveled it? Pro detailers are interested in boom bang looks good, performance (Doesn't require hard work to look good and low chance messing up) and economical, average Joe Shmoe consumer wants ease of use, looks good and cheap, the perfectionist wants the best product possible even if it's more work and more money. But how many of you put down what YOU want and think about what is really best for your car's paint, assuming the goal is longevity.



If ask me this question, I would simply say an acrylic or high tech non oily polymer. I haven't been here for a while, what product lines meet this requirement on mine? What's the new good stuff.
 
Sealants have evolved greatly in the last 5 years. The use of Nanotechnology has completely changed the ballgame. 2 coats of Collinite used to be the best money could buy, but true coatings like Nanoskin are leaving the old timers in the dust in longevity, and are much more durable against water spotting and etching from bird droppings.
 
I keep some of our vehicles a long, long time (decades). Actually I find that which LSP I use has virtually zero effect on the longterm health of the paint, but maybe that's just because of how I maintain them. Still, some of our "merely waxed" vehicles are used hard and can go weeks on end without washes when used on extended roadtrips.



Yeah, I use sealants on some of our vehicles and I sure can rave about how great (layered) KSG and FK1000P are, but it's not like my waxed vehicles are suffering from that regimen either.



I think how the paint gets treated overall, year-in-year out, that matters, more than it is about what kind of LSP you use.
 
If paints could talk nowadays, they'd say: "who were those idiots who decided to apply us so thinly, making us so sensitive and ugly (being like a real 3d orange)? So please treat us accordingly."



In reality it means gentle and highly controlled touches, as-soft-as-possible approach, and highly durable LSPs which can build thicker layers than a typical wax/sealant layer of say, 20 nanometers. If a traditional LSP, as Accumulator mentioned, can build a thicker shield, that's a positive. And yes, we all know the ever-present discussions about layering, yet there are certain products which can jump magnitudes in performance when properly layered.



That said, nothing can touch the performance of a good coating, which can bring a few microns additional thickness, better wear characteristics, toughness and overall protection to the existing paint film matrix. They truly cannot be layered after full hardening/curing, and waxing becomes a mostly redundant, unnecessary step. I sometimes do it just because I like to do it, but whatever LSP sits on the top of a coating, it's gonna perform poorly in terms of durability - but it *may* look good/better.
 
Long time, no see. Zaino still ranks up there as one of the most durable traditional sealants. New technology is glass based sealants but I doubt that they can acheive the shimmer and depth of the best polymers and waxes.
 
It would say, "Don't caress me gently too much while washing with soapy water." :) (My paint could feel it is being molested every other day). With my right hand, I hold my high quality sponge, while my left hand feels out the paint. After that, I seal off my paint with the glass coating liquid almost after every wash. I chose my condo in the city simply because it has an adjacent dedicated parking spot with a back yard (not to mention it is in a good neighborhood) so that I can wash my cars at any time I like.
 
wannafbody said:
Long time, no see.
Click to expand...



Yeah, what's up? Been a while since they shut down the club. Who is running this place nowadays? Some nice guy ran me down on roadfly and invited me back.



Good to see the same guys Scott, Accumulator, and Bence still posting.



Frequent washing is probably the best lsp for sure. But I think a lSP still offers protection from the sun that you don't get from straight washing, additional benefit if you find one that is anti dust properties. I looked up nanoskin and couldn't order it or find processing. Anyone else sell it? To tell the truth I'm tired of waxing my car, I'm about ready to Linex it and call it a day. I'm surprised car Manufacturers haven't developed a better mouse trap yet when it comes to clear coated surfaces.
 
I love how Nanoskin frightens the water droplets... It's insane - would be a great choice. But dunno, where to order. Anyway, you can't go wrong with Optimum coating or gTechniq, or even G'Zox.



Hey, what's on Roadfly? I've never been there since ages.



BTW, I can understand that you are tired of waxing. I feel it too. I order less, but when I order something, it is usually outstanding. Did you try products like Raceglaze 55, Victoria Wax Chaos/Mayhem, Bilt Hamber Auto Balm/Finis Wax/Hydra Wax? The latter brand a very interesting one.
 
I was thinking of this thread yesterday when washing the A8...actually the only vehicle of ours that actually suffers "damage" is the S8 (a garage-queen that hardly gets used at all). I use UPP on that, and when we take it on a long summer roadtrip the bugs etch it badly enough to require a gentle, but still abrasive, polishing. If the vehicle got used for that very often I'd switch it from UPP to FK1000P, just to preserve the paint.



So maybe I oughta back off from my "which LSP doesn't matter" postition at least a little bit.



Bence brought up a good point about the "thicker" nature of some traditional LSPs. I find it interesting that the layered "modern" sealant (UPP) on the S8 doesn't protect nearly as well as the 1950's-tech wax (M16) on the A8.
 
Accumulator said:
and when we take it on a long summer roadtrip the bugs etch it badly enough to require a gentle, but still abrasive, polishing.
Click to expand...



Did you ever have any luck with Prowax 's Bug Guard? Once sprayed on, it's supposed to last up to 30 days granted it doesn't rain. Bug splatter can be a major concern down here especially starting right about this time of year. I' m going to use it more religiously with the hopes of not having to polish bug gut etching.
 
Accumulator said:
Bence brought up a good point about the "thicker" nature of some traditional LSPs. I find it interesting that the layered "modern" sealant (UPP) on the S8 doesn't protect nearly as well as the 1950's-tech wax (M16) on the A8.
Click to expand...



Opti-Seal is the only sealant I've found that truly protects as well as a good carnauba like #16.
 
Bill D said:
Did you ever have any luck with Prowax 's Bug Guard? Once sprayed on, it's supposed to last up to 30 days granted it doesn't rain. Bug splatter can be a major concern down here especially starting right about this time of year. I' m going to use it more religiously with the hopes of not having to polish bug gut etching.
Click to expand...



I guess that ever since I got on my FK1000P kick I've forgotten about stuff like the Bug Guard. I do remember our talking about it though, and IIRC Griot's has something similar.



It might be a good idea for the A8, but then again it doesn't seem to need any help in that dept. On the S8...well...if I'm taking that car I want it to look perfect, even if that means dealing with the etching. E.g., I'd rather have it parked at the Greenbrier with bugs on it than with the Bug Guard making it look imperfectly detailed; it'd be too much like wearing rubber overshoes over dress shoes ;)



Sure glad I don't have to deal with your bug issues on a regular basis! Wonder how the FK1000P would stand up against the Love Bugs and so on :think:
 
I've used the stuff, it works just as directed. It seems to me that it's just a car soap that you spray on dry, and you can just rinse it off later.
 
Burlyq said:
Been a while since they shut down the club. Who is running this place nowadays? Some nice guy ran me down on roadfly and invited me back.
Click to expand...

Hey - I resemble that remark! Glad you were willing to rejoin the forum. Glad to have you back here posting! You have alot of catching up to do.
 
Scottwax said:
Opti-Seal is the only sealant I've found that truly protects as well as a good carnauba like #16.
Click to expand...



Yeah, some waxes like M16 and 476S can offer incredible protection against "stuff that eats into paint".



But the layered KSG and FK1000P are working even better for me in that respect than the M16/476S. I've had some etching happen through M16, but it simply doesn't happen with those two. Heh heh "famous last words!", hope I'm not jinxing myself. But seriously, I don't even bother cleaning off birdbombs or such stuff any more as they don't cause damage through those sealants.
 
Burlyq said:
If your PAINT could talk, what do you think it would tell you to preserve it after you leveled it? I haven't been here for a while, what product lines meet this requirement on mine? What's the new good stuff.
Click to expand...



Welcome back Burlyq!!!

If I were paint and I just got a heavy releveling, I'd be making darn sure I didn't get too dirty and didn't have anyone lean up against it. I'd also apply a good product like Opti-Coat that is quite different that a wax or sealant. That way any marring that's created will most likely be put in this true sacrificial barrier instead of my bald and flat body.
 
David Fermani said:
Welcome back Burlyq!!!

If I were paint and I just got a heavy releveling, I'd be making darn sure I didn't get too dirty and didn't have anyone lean up against it. I'd also apply a good product like Opti-Coat that is quite different that a wax or sealant. That way any marring that's created will most likely be put in this true sacrificial barrier instead of my bald and flat body.
Click to expand...



Thanks man,

I guess I need to try some opti stuff! Is it available locally anywhere?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top