If its one thing I hate...

SkeptiKal

New member
Its RUST!!!!!! :down :mad:











Giant pics Batman, I know.



I know that I will have to remove the side skirt to get at the rust and thats not a problem. The thing is I want to prevent the rust from 1) spreading 2) coming back 3) ruining the whole car



Im guessing I will have to sand down the area with some coarser sand paper, or maybe with a wired brush. Then I would have to put some kind of rust remover on there? Followed by some primer and the paint finally?



I guess I am looking for some product recommendation. Durability is #1 object, look and finish being a close second.



What would be the best way to attack this problem? I want to get rif of all the rust before I move on to detailing the car like I want it.



Thanks for all your input.
 
As I have learned.



I did some rust 'removal' on an older car that was unsuccessful.



I gotta get it right this time, no matter how long it takes me.
 
No problem with photograph size- Rust is to a detailer as holy water is to a vampire lol



Quote: What exactly does rust repair involve?

A: Removal-Neutralization-Protection



Surface Preparation:

·Wash and thoroughly dry paint surface

·Apply a paint prep/cleaner (Dupont Prepsol or Iz enzett Acrasol) to remove any surface wax / sealant reside

·Remove any loose rust with sandpaper or a stiff brush

·Wash surface and thoroughly dry

·Wipe surface with a 1:1 solution Isopropyl Alcohol / distilled water



Corrosion:

Corrosion (rust) destroys metal by an electro-chemical reaction with water as the catalyst (water + ozone (an oxidizer) moisture + oxygen). Corrosion arresting products are available that penetrate corrosion cells, emulsify the moisture and separates it from the metal leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect the metal from further damage.



It is not enough to simply seal over existing corrosion by moisture displacement. While this technique will prevent further contact with the electrolyte, (moisture), it also traps existing moisture under the sealant, thus allowing that corrosion to continue.



Corrosion arresting products, when applied to a moist surface, will wick the moisture through the coating to the surface. A major study on rust proofing 2-3 years ago stated that an annually applied petroleum based product offered the best protection. Rubber coating such as Ziebart were not recommended as water or moisture can be entrapped between the rubber coating and the sheet metal making matters worse and also the best time to apply the product is in the summer months contrary to the cooler fall months, this way the product remains liquid and will penetrate folds and crannies.



The cause?

Particles produced from the friction of brake pads rubbing against the rotor, rail wheel friction on tracks or the metal scoop of a snow plough. This metal on metal friction disperses tiny particles of statically charged black dust, which adheres to the wheel and other vehicle surfaces. Sequestered brake dust, if left for any length of time will cause galvanic corrosion, which etches the paint surface allowing contaminants like acid rain, ozone, sulphuric acid, dioxide and nitric acids to penetrate the paint film surface. (See Industrial Pollution)



Once the clear coat is compromised UV radiation will further degrade the paint by causing oxidation.

The metallic brake dust acts as a conduit for industrial contaminants to permeate the paint film surface, that over time can cause permanent etching which, take the contaminants harmful effects (corrosion) right to the base of the paint system and down to the vehicles sheet metal.



Neutralizing -

Washing the paint film surface with a slightly alkaline car wash concentrate and thoroughly rinsing will neutralize the contaminants and remove them from the paints surface Detailer's clay removes imbedded brake dust and other contaminants by encapsulation, thereby eliminating the primary cause



Treatment-

By applying a suitable cleaner (Por-15® Products Marine Clean) and then a rust inhibitor (POR-15® Products) it will arrest corrosion on contact without leaving a sticky residue that would attract dirt, dust or grime. Corrosion attacks metal by an electrochemical (galvanic) reaction with water as the catalyst.



It penetrates the corrosion cells, emulsifying the moisture and separating it from the metal, leaving an ultra-thin barrier to protect from further damage. Since most corrosion begins in crevices, (seams), it is important to have the capability to penetrate these crevices in order to form a protective barrier.



Many heavier or more viscous products don't penetrate crevices, instead they form a `bridge', and while this may isolate the crevice from further contact with the electrolyte it does nothing to eliminate the presence of existing moisture or surface corrosion. Injection into a seam or crevice with an aerosol or spray eliminates this problem.

JonM
 
rust converters work- sand, clean,apply rust converter and paint. they are available at Advance. turns the rust to a black paintable surface
 
FWIW: 3M's Rust Avenger is a pretty kool product to have hanging around in your arsenal. I picked it up for about $5 at my local autostore. If you have a nick the size of a piece of rice which starts to rust, it can help you out.



It's a pen type product that you push onto the affected area. Some liquid (thin like water) comes out and runs over the rusted spot. I cleaned the area with a little rubbing alcohol and left it with the surface rust. This product has some chemical reaction with the rust (not sure what it's doing), and after drying it leaves it with a primer look (and is paintable from what I understand).



I have a small nick on my hood about half the size of a piece of rice. I caught it early and used the pen. It's been a couple of years and so far (knock on wood) the area has held. I have also used it on a beater car where the hood marks are the size of a piece of shredded cheese (approx. 1" by 1/8"). That's been over a year and hasn't spread yet. It doesn't look good, but it's a beater car and the affected area is "contained".



I think it's a good product to have around if you need a temporary fix (some cases permenant) if you know you're not going to be able to resolve the issue in a short timeframe or care about the appearance.



I would use it (as a temporary hold) on the area in the second picture to help it from spreading. The first picture looks like there's too much for this product to be helpful.



Good Luck ! :)
 
Good information SK2003TypeS



âہ“Rust Avenger TM Rust Converter, 3M TM

Chemically transforms rust into paintable primer. For rusty nicks and scratches.â€Â�



I donâ€â„¢t feel comfortable using rust converters but for a quick fix this product would do fine

JonM
 
The trouble with the converters is that they will only convert the rust they contact. If the rust is very deep at all it will come right back through the primer. Now, if you sand it down to where you can see mostly metal, the converter is great at getting the rest of the surface rust and the rust you can't see with the naked eye. It's a LSP before painting but definitely not a one step product most of the time.
 
My experiences with the Rust Avenger mirror those of SK2003TypeS. I've used it on stone chips and left it untopped for quite a few years (over a decade in some cases) without any rerusting or other problems. I pull the applicator top off and use either a sharpened toothpick or a fine artist's brush to apply it after first abrading the area down so it contacts all of the area in question, as splattj mentioned.
 
Thanks for the comments guys!



I went out and purchased some Eastwood Pre-Painting Prep and some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.



I am hoping to get this done when the weather clears up a bit. If anyone is interested I can post a small review with some 'after' pictures.
 
Yeah, let us know how it goes and how it holds up. Having used POR-15 before, I plan to try the Eastwood Encapsulator the next time.
 
Accumulator said:
My experiences with the Rust Avenger mirror those of SK2003TypeS. I've used it on stone chips and left it untopped for quite a few years (over a decade in some cases) without any rerusting or other problems. I pull the applicator top off and use either a sharpened toothpick or a fine artist's brush to apply it after first abrading the area down so it contacts all of the area in question, as splattj mentioned.



Accumulator. According to 3M, they have discontinued Rust Avenger. They couldn't give my any reference to a new product. I guess for my undercarriage rust spots, I'll continue to apply Eastwood rust encapsulator and will continue my search to find a product that can seep into crannies. :2thumbs:
 
Back
Top