I need to get up to speed. I missed last 20 years in detailing

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nEJIbMEHb

New member
Hi team! Last time I did detailing was 20 years ago. Lol - half of my lifetime.
Back then my recipe was KAIO+KSG and some Pinnacle wax on top of that. Now I see a lot of buzz around ceramics. Is there a good guide for me to follow? Any good resources on YouTube to watch?

Thank you.
 
I assume that you`ve heard of dual action polishers and foam pads?

Start out with a easy coating like Optimum or Cquartz UK. If you can apply wax by hand you can apply a coating.
 
bad penny said:
I assume that you`ve heard of dual action polishers and foam pads?
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Heh heh, that was a good one! But seriously, there *are* a lot of somewhat better RO/DA units (and different MF pads) than there where decades ago. I gather some people still do OK with not-so-long-throw polishers like the original PC, but these days it`s easy to find ones that`re better, or at least more efficient.

If you can apply wax by hand you can apply a coating.
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The *application* is just as easy as wiping on any other product, but note that some of us find the requisite Inspection (to avoid high-spots, etc.) too daunting, and for those of us in that boat conventional stuff can be better if only because it`s, uhm...Accumulator-proof.
 
nEJIbMEHb said:
Hi team! Last time I did detailing was 20 years ago. Lol - half of my lifetime.
Back then my recipe was KAIO+KSG and some Pinnacle wax on top of that. Now I see a lot of buzz around ceramics. Is there a good guide for me to follow? Any good resources on YouTube to watch?

Thank you.
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I guess to answer your question, need to know what you have now. As far as polishers, I`m guessing you used to use the old Porter Cable 7424 which dominated the Prosumer industry back then? Or were you doing rotary work? If you are comfortable with the rotary and feel you can jump back on that, go for it. If you were using the Porter Cable, I would consider looking at the long throw polishers of today or forced rotation (also called gear driven). Those two versions of the DA will speed up your work quite a bit from the Porter Cable. Rupes`s Bigfoot LHR is the biggest name in the long throw style and Flex is the big boy in the forced rotation market but Rupes also makes one called the Mille. Unfortunately, both of these polishers are quite expensive but the quality of each is amazing. Also, if you like Made in USA/Assembled in the USA, Rupes has a plant in the US so that has me really leaning towards a Rupes just so I have a long throw polisher to go along with my forced rotation (my 12 year old Flex 34010). I like having both versions of the DA but mostly like having a backup DA should one die while in the middle of a job.

Nothing wrong with the Klasse twins but when you run out, and you don`t feel quite ready to jump head first into coatings, Finish Kare`s 1000P Hi Temp Paste Wax continues to impress me. Accumulator would agree with me here I bet also. I don`t know if it is possible to get a more durable and easier cleaning product outside of coatings. If you still like the idea of prepping the surface with an AIO similar to Klasse AIO, Finish Kare`s #215 One Step Clean Sealant is a fine AIO.

For polishes, Meguiars really changed things up with the introduction of non diminishing abrasives when they came out with the 105 compound and 205 polish. They have recently came out with 110 compound and 210 polish which seem to be upgrades to 105 and 205. The best thing about 110 and 210, is they can be purchased at Harbor Freight for cheaper than most online stores along with some other Meguiars products such as Hyper Wash.

In terms of clay, I still use clay bars but I feel like a dying breed, lol. Most people seem to have moved on to the Clay towels/mitts such as from Nano Skin. Probably want to do some research on that subject to see what you want to do. I am still going through my old Ricardo Clay but when that is up, I will probably go with Bilt Hamber`s mild clay or Chemical Guys Ultra Clay. I may get with this decade and actually get a clay towel/mitt also. Chemical Guys Ultra Clay Towel, their Ultra Clay Mitt and their Ultra Clay Block all look interesting to me.

Sorry this is so long but hope this helps.
 
Bert- If you do try the decon towels, I hope you`ll post about how it goes. I can`t see any way of using one without inducing *some* degree of marring. (I know clay can do that too, but it hardly ever does for me given how nutty-careful I am about it (hours and hours to clay a whole car, going inch-by-inch...). Not that I have to do much claying with that FK1000P on there, what with the way it sheds contamination so well.
 
Accumulator said:
Bert- If you do try the decon towels, I hope you`ll post about how it goes. I can`t see any way of using one without inducing *some* degree of marring. (I know clay can do that too, but it hardly ever does for me given how nutty-careful I am about it (hours and hours to clay a whole car, going inch-by-inch...). Not that I have to do much claying with that FK1000P on there, what with the way it sheds contamination so well.
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Will do. I just bought a 2011 Black Ford Ranger that looks like it has gone through a tunnel wash about 300 times so when I clay it, I doubt I would be able to find any new marring amongst the myriad of existing marring, lol. Day Light Savings is coming, so I will have more light in the evenings (I don`t own a garage unfortunately) to wash, iron decon, clay, polish and FK Hi Temp it. After that, the paint should be 85% correctly (85% is plenty for me) and when I clay towel it after that, any new marring should be easier to find and I can report back.

The reason I am considering going to clay towel is due to my new employment and the need for side work (detailing). I work for a kitchen that serves on average 600 meals a day to the Louisville, KY homeless. While the job fills the heart and soul, it CERTAINLY does not fill the wallet so I will probably start placing ads again for detail work on evenings and weekends. While I have the highest respect for Accumulator type detailing (washing and claying that can last quite a while, lol), that is not possible when detailing for money. Faster methods are simply mandatory and clay towels/mitts/etc. are much faster than clay bars. I have been researching the perforated clay towels that Yvan LaCroix preaches that with the correct process (see a video of his for details), can clay mar free and will try that method with Chemical Guy Ultra Clay products (which are perforated) out on my black Ranger. So, stay tuned.
 
Bert said:
Will do. I just bought a 2011 Black Ford Ranger that looks like it has gone through a tunnel wash about 300 times so when I clay it, I doubt I would be able to find any new marring amongst the myriad of existing marring, lol. Day Light Savings is coming, so I will have more light in the evenings (I don`t own a garage unfortunately) to wash, iron decon, clay, polish and FK Hi Temp it. After that, the paint should be 85% correctly (85% is plenty for me) and when I clay towel it after that, any new marring should be easier to find and I can report back.

The reason I am considering going to clay towel is due to my new employment and the need for side work (detailing). I work for a kitchen that serves on average 600 meals a day to the Louisville, KY homeless. While the job fills the heart and soul, it CERTAINLY does not fill the wallet so I will probably start placing ads again for detail work on evenings and weekends. While I have the highest respect for Accumulator type detailing (washing and claying that can last quite a while, lol), that is not possible when detailing for money. Faster methods are simply mandatory and clay towels/mitts/etc. are much faster than clay bars. I have been researching the perforated clay towels that Yvan LaCroix preaches that with the correct process (see a video of his for details), can clay mar free and will try that method with Chemical Guy Ultra Clay products (which are perforated) out on my black Ranger. So, stay tuned.
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Bert --
...Congrats on the Ford Ranger !

...I just took delivery of one in February, a 2022 Ranger Lariat, Shadow Black, 4x2 with limited slip differential, tow pkg, and all the other free things you get with the Lariat... It has barely 2k miles on it, and it runs great ! Love it !

...Regarding claybars, towels, etc., --- I started using claybars shortly after they were released in the US from Japan... Yeah, a long time ago.. :)
...I still like them because they really do get everything off the paintwork...

...And then, when Zaino was invented, I used their red claybar and it was/is a great claybar too..

...Yes, a claytowel is much more easier to use, faster, way easy to rinse, and has a bigger footprint on the paintwork; I only use SM Arnold Speedy Surface Prep Fine Grade after the wash, and it has been fine..

...I have found using this claytowel that I have to rub it a little harder and longer, to achieve the same level of smoothness, a claybar gives..

...Yes, there are a lot of claytowels out now and I am glad if they are better, etc.,;I have no problems with mine...

...Hope your black Ranger project works great ! They have really nice paint.. :)
Dan F
 
Bert- Ah, if the paint already needs major correction then OK on using the towels regardless of any marring they might instill. "Horses for courses" and all that.

And I sure sympathize with needing to do this stuff in a timely manner! "Accumulator type detailing" gets hard for Yours Truly to justify too!
 
nEJIbMEHb: (WHAT a log-on name! Add a number or two (pun intended) and a few punctuation marks or special symbols and you have a highly-encrypted password, never mind logon name. Just sayin`...)
Here is what you have missed out on in twenty years of not keeping up with detailing developments:
1) Advancements in microfiber types. There are a plethora of fiber types and qualities for all detailing tasks.
Drying towels with loop-type fiber to replace waffle-weave are a BIG one for me, having replaced my long-used chamois (PLEASE, do not laugh! I am a long-time, old school detailing enthusiast)
2) Long-throw buffing machines. 15mm and 21mm throws are now available, although 8mm and 9mm throws are still used. Flex and Rupes are two buffing machine manufactures that pretty much dominate the pro-detailing and serious detailer market for their quality. Then there are the knock-off of the Chinese-made machines. Griot`s Garage has some very good machines that many Autopians use.
3) Coatings have pretty much replaced/supplanted sealants and waxes. LOTS of choices in this detailing product market; some good (and expensive), some...well, cheap. Ceramics is pretty much the "chemical" base for most coatings, but recently Graphene is a marketing buzz-word. Whether Graphene is for real with its (supposedly) superior detailing properties of protection and water-beading or just marketing-hype is the subject of great debate within this forum. (Disclaimer: I still use Collinite waxes and Klasse All-In-One Sealant. Old school, remember?!)
4) You found and joined this Autopian Forum. This is still THE best place for detailing information and expertise. Yes, social media like You Tube and Tic-Tok videos are all the rage and considered THE source for how-to-do-it information, but EVERYONE is an expert and the next big social media sensation with a bazillion followers (and financial rewards for those numbers), Here it`s just honest do-it-yourselfers and professional detailers helping each other. Cannot say we always "agree" on all-things detailing, but we try to "all just get along". Keep posting and asking questions and you will find out.
One thing with this forum is to learn to use the Search tab. You can find a lot of information by doing your own research BEFORE you post a question. That, and check into this forum on a frequent basis.
(Yes, I, Captain Obvious am a hypocrite with this admonishment)
5) PLEASE buy your detailing products and equipment from the Autopian Store when you can. NO, I do not work for them, nor do I get any financial compensation for saying this. They (the Autopia Store and its owner The Palm Beach Motoring Group) own and run this forum and without supporting them financially, this forum would not exists.
The continuation of this forum is a personal endeavor and passion of mine because of its member-help to me in my own detailing exploits and that is my motivation for this statement.
And, yes, many members here I consider detailing friends-and-family, even though I have never met them personally face-to-face.
 
For me, the biggest changes have been the vast improvement in the spray products for paint, the introduction of the twist loop driving towels, and the growth of the use of DA polishers. Also, the amount of info about detailing online has gone up significantly since then, so easy to learn new stuff.
 
Some of us still use carnauba wax and sealants.

Polishes have gotten way easier to use. 3d, Griots are some of the easiest ones I`ve ever used.

Towels are way better.

Polishing machines are way better. Cordless flex machines are nice....
 
craigdt said:
Some of us still use carnauba wax and sealants.

Polishes have gotten way easier to use. 3d, Griots are some of the easiest ones I`ve ever used.

Towels are way better.

Polishing machines are way better. Cordless flex machines are nice....
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I am seriously considering going cordless. I have a corded Flex 3401 but I am looking at a cordless smaller polisher for 3 inch backing plates such as the Rupes ibrid Mini or possibly Flex`s version. If I like the cordless 3 inch polisher, I may have to start looking at cordless full size polishers like Flex or Milwaukee and move my 15 year old 3401 to back up duty.
 
Bert said:
Hmmmmm, thank you for the heads up. Hopefully the competition will also bring prices down in the 3 inch polisher field.
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Scratch that part about bringing prices down, Griot is charging 399 for this polisher, lol.
 
Bert said:
That`s nice but not a deal maker if that makes sense.
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Makes *perfect* sense to me...but I bet somebody here will think it`s a big deal.

Actually...OK, if I ever get one of those for Xmas I`ll use the battery-function to do a quickie on our ss mailbox, maybe get it a little nicer than I do by hand.
 
Accumulator said:
Bert- If you do try the decon towels, I hope you`ll post about how it goes. I can`t see any way of using one without inducing *some* degree of marring. (I know clay can do that too, but it hardly ever does for me given how nutty-careful I am about it (hours and hours to clay a whole car, going inch-by-inch...). Not that I have to do much claying with that FK1000P on there, what with the way it sheds contamination so well.
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Hey Accum, I wanted to follow up about the perforated towel like you asked. So back in early March, due to the sun going down so early in the evenings (don`t own a garage unfortunately), I decided to do a quick detail and did use the perforated Rag Co. Ultra Mitt in the process. After washing the truck with Meg`s Hyper Wash, I sprayed it down with a solvent to get rid of any tar possibly on the surface and washed again and blew it dry with a leaf blower. Then I sprayed Meg`s Iron Decon (whatever they call it) and allowed it to dwell on the surface and then clayed with the perforated mitt using the iron decon as the lubricant. If doing so caused any new marring, I couldn`t find it amongst all the other marring on the surface. After that, thoroughly rinsed the truck and used Meg`s 101 and Lake Country White pads with my Flex 3401 followed by HD Car Care Speed on Lake Country Black pads also on the Flex 3401. I was curious how the HD Speed would last without any toppers and over the past three months, it did pretty dang good. However, in the sun light, I noticed the Meg`s 101 and LC White pads did pretty good with marring but there was still some that was pretty noticeable so last weekend I decided to hit them with Meg`s 101 but this time on LC Force Orange pads.

So I made up a wash concoction with APC in it to remove what was left of the HD Speed (which was still hanging on respectably). I wanted to test out the perforated mitt so I sprayed the surface down again with Meg`s Iron Decon, let it dwell for a bit and then clayed the truck with the perforated mitt again using the Iron Decon as lubricant. I couldn`t find any new marring anywhere. I guess the claim that perforated towels/mitts/pads/whatever are considerably safer than original clay towels is not BS. I was quite impressed that I could find nothing new. I used the Meg`s 101 on the Lake Country Orange Force pads on the Flex 3401 and that combo wiped out the marring that the White Lake Country pads left behind three months ago and left a nice surface. I probably could have skipped following up with Megs 210 on Black LC pads but did so anyways and the finish is great. I used my old Meg`s paste wax. I think it is called Meg`s 16? The one that Meg`s had to discontinue about a decade ago due to VOC`s. The wax was not as "hard" and I remembered it being when I bought it years ago. It was much softer. I hope nothing is wrong with it. If it is, I will just strip it off and use old faithful FK1000P.

I just wanted to follow up and give Accum and assessment of the perforated mitt. As summer comes to an end, I may do another iron decon/peforated mitt claying. When I do that one, the paint will still be mostly marring free and I will really be able to tell if the perforated mitt is causing any marring which I do not believe it is so far.
 
Bert- Thanks for the update, sounds like it turned out really nice.

FWIW, I don`t think you`d have liked how that M101 (which I use) finished out when you really inspected it, so I`m glad you followed up with a finishing polish.

Yeah, the M16 is good stuff! Even if it seems "all dried out" it has always worked just fine for me (still have several tins of the stuff). Soft, hard..whatever...it has always performed OK.

Now that it`s all corrected, I`ll be interested to hear how the next use of the decon towel goes. I may well be stuck in an incorrect mindset, but I just can`t imagine how such a thing could work marring free since I find most *anything* will mar autopaint once it has a speck of (abrasive) contamination stuck to it. Heh heh, I`d *really* like to be proven wrong about that!

Thanks again for the good explanation of how it`s been going so far :D
 
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