I need some second opinions.

R

redping3

New member
Hey, I just recently bought a Griot's Garage 6in Random Orbital; I realized it's impossible to continue doing any detailing by hand. However, since I'm so inexperienced with a machine, I'm too indecisive on the procedures I should take. I have a 2004 Acura TL in Pearl that has medium swirl marks and light scratches, so I'm wanting to do a good polish. I've read the tutorial, but I'm still lost on the pads I need to use, the recommended swirl removal grade, and the clay bar selection. I think brands just have me confused... I know it's not about the brand, but I don't really know what's in them.



I like the Griot's Garage "recommended products," but they're waay to expensive. And I just want to do my car, really (I have a special occasion coming up ;) ) Any insight will be really appreciated. And of course I'll post results :woot2:



Sorry if I seem like too much of a novice, but I really did try reading the information posted here.



Thank you for your time!
 
Just get the lake orange, white and black pads, 5.5" should be ok on the GG6. Then get UNO or Megs 105/205. Simple and works well. Remember, always do a test section, then plan out accordingly.
 
Thanks. What steps are the colors for each?



Another question: how do I strip the wax it already has on? I don't have a foam gun, but will it work the same with a bucket application?
 
redping3 said:
Thanks. What steps are the colors for each?



Another question: how do I strip the wax it already has on? I don't have a foam gun, but will it work the same with a bucket application?
Click to expand...



105 and 205 are tailorable to whatever you want - do some reading on it and you will see they react more aggressively to pad selection and pressure on the panel. In other words, you can use 105 with a polishing pad to get it to act like a medium polish, on the other side you could technically use 205 on a cutting pad to get a little extra "ooomph" from it. Because M105 finishes very nicely, a common combination on most paints will be 105 on an orange light cut or a polishing pad(white) followed by M205 on a black pad. Paint hardness will ultimately dictate your combos after you do your test sections.



Stripping wax is as simple as dawn or a heavier concentration of your shampoo if your LSP is not freshly applied. It will work better in the bucket because of the agitation provided. Really foam guns are an application method before agitating, foaming and rinsing with shampoos literally do next to nothing on a clean car.



Otherwise a paint safe APC spraydown prior to your washing will get it all off and IF there is anything left, once you claybar the car, that will surely eliminate it.
 
I see you bought the GG polisher so you're probably not totally adverse to buying products online. GG products have free shipping now so perhaps that might take the sting out of the price a little. Other detailing supply sources typically only offer free shipping if you make a $100+ order.



My standard procedure for now on to strip wax when I'm doing a full wash is to use CGCW. You don't need to administer it via foam gun. You could do you a bucket wash using it. Also you could strip each panel, panel by panel with a good safe solvent like Valugard New Car Prep.
 
As far as product you can also do well with Meguiars or Mothers available locally at Advance/AutoZone/PepBoys. Polish, clay and wax/sealants all available.



Be sure to get microfiber towels. And a wool wash mitt.
 
I second the lake county orange, white, and blue for pads. I would definitely go with UNO as a polish. It may finish down well enough with the orange pad you won't even need to use the white.



I would recommend also some Klasse AiO to follow the UNO with just to ensure a nice gloss and clean any residual polish. You can apply it by hand or with the white pad.



This should leave your car looking very good.



Most importantly, take your time, enjoy the process and don't get frustrated with stubborn swirls. You are going to miss plenty if it's your first time using a polisher. Accept it.



Once your done focus on developing a very good, consistent, non marring wash method. This will make your finish look better, and increase the time between polishing so you can visit these forums and read andnlearn, and refine a plan for your next polish when the time comes.
 
redping3- While I do sometimes do/advocate stripping the existing wax, I bet that between a potent-dilution wash and the claying, the first pass with your aggressive pad/polish combo will remove whatever's already on there.



For the clay, Mothers (and the seemingly similar/?identical? Griot's) or ClayMagic Blue oughta work fine.
 
CM Blue will do a better job (at least IME) with removing contamination and not making you pass over a gajillion times for some stubborn stuff.
 
Dan said:
Just get the lake orange, white and black pads, 5.5" should be ok on the GG6. Then get UNO or Megs 105/205. Simple and works well. Remember, always do a test section, then plan out accordingly.
Click to expand...



Great advice for someone just starting out. The enormous amount of different types and brands of products can have someone's head spinning in no time.
 
I just got done doing both my cars with the Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit. It was everything I needed in a simple package (already had the DA). With great results. I am not a pro, and if you want something with a quick learning curve I really don't think you can do better!
 
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