I hear that Klasse SG is hard to remove, any tips for easier removal

Hi Bill:

when you let SG dry overnight, do you need to buff off with a damp, then dry towel, or will it come off easily with a dry towel?



Since the product has set on the vehicle overnight I feel better using a very lightly damp MF towel for lubricant. Something similar to QDing (a light spray onto the towel). I have not tried

using just a dry towel. BTW I park under a carport so this method may not work for everyone. The SG buffs off very, very easily this way. I follow with the dry towel but I probably do not need to, I just love the feel of the slick surface. I have folded the towel and lightly sprayed 1/4 of the towel and wiped and then turned the towel for a following buff. I usually express the two towel method because that description is easier to understand.



IMO: I do not feel this lightly damp towel effects curing however if we had all the answers then what would we discuss.



BTW :Even though I feel guilty because SG has been so easy for me to use you can bet I will try the wipe on and wipe off method.



Thanks for the tip
 
rightlane,



I will definately give your method a shot as well. I personally do not mind letting the sg sit overnight. I know that many others do not like klasse for this and other reasons, which is why I am striving to make it as user friendly as possible. I really do think it is a great product.



Thanks for the info!
 
What sounds logic to me is why would Klasse do the twins so much different to use? AIO dries very quick and if this happens it's a pain to remove, so is SG.

Twin brothers, same way to use, that's logic to me.
 
Method given to me by a mod on here for this:

Wash car

Dry

Apply SG

Let sit about an hour

Wash car again

Dry



Works for me, water still beading after 2 or so months, still has that just waxed look when the car is washed. Doesnt kill you to do either so I find I apply more often.
 
breakneckvtec,



you method is still similar to the damp and dry towel method. You are still introducing moisture to the SG before it has fully cured. I personally feel that was the cause of my SG developing an oily haze a couple of years ago.
 
breakneckvtec said:
Method given to me by a mod on here for this:

Wash car

Dry

Apply SG

Let sit about an hour

Wash car again

Dry
Click to expand...

HUH??? :confused: When do you buff-off the SG??? -- or don't you?



Signed,

a Klasse newbie
 
BW said:


a.) Use a damp MF or QD and risk meeting that infamous SG haze. (It theoretically doesn't work anyway, as exposing it to water will prevent the air from crosslinking the resin.)
Click to expand...



If it theoretically does not work, then how would you explain the success so many have had with it?
 
Have any of you tried the method DavidB posted a while back on SG. His suggestion, which i have been using since that post is to mix 3 ounces KSG with 1 ounce of Sonus Acrylic QG in a spray bottle. I'm on my 4th coat on my truck since then and this is the easiest method yet. I spray my foam applicator with a couple shots of the mix, go over one section several times til almost dry then mist again and do the next section. I continue til i finish then start removing from the first section I applied it to til it's all off. On any area that i may have used a little too much on I'll put a quick spray of Sonus on my MF. This is usually not needed though.
 
f150smith,



I have read DavidB's method. I haven't been able to try it out because I have no sonus qd. Hopefully next detailing season I will order some and give it a shot.



How many coats can you get from the 3oz of sg + 1oz of sonus?
 
I have used the 'apply SG and then wash car after letting SG dry' method many times. It is the surest way, IMHO, to remove residue. It's just a hassle to wash again.



With these new methods - David B's add Sonus QD and Bill's wipe on-wipe off I'm still a bit concerned with diluting and dry time ramifications. I think I will always allow the first coat to sit several hours and then apply subsequent coats using the new methods to add extra protection without the usual hassle.



Just my thoughts.
 
Lynn-



You dont do any buffing, you simply wash off the residue. Takes some time but so does buffing. People always say you can do it this way but they dont want to go through the hassle of washing the car again, to me buffing is alot more of a hassle then running around the car and washing it again. And it works well. No leftover residue.
 
Holy cow! I havent ben her for over a week or so and there are 3 pages! Didnt think this would be this popular of a subject!
 
BillNorth:



So far i've put 2 coats on everything on my F150 Supercrew(which has A LOT OF SHEET METAL) including my bumpers, chrome running boards and 17 inch wheels. I've put a third on my roof, hood, and front end and still have a very small amount left in my 4 ounce bottle, maybe 1/2 ounce or so.



To me the KSG/Sonus mix is easier to remove than AIO.



If you have both KSG and Sonus QD, you owe it to yourself and your arms to try mixing up a little to try. Hey use 1 1/2 ounce KSG and 1/2 ounce Sonus if you have a smaller car or jsut want to give it a try without mixing up more.
 
f150smith said:
BillNorth:



So far i've put 2 coats on everything on my F150 Supercrew(which has A LOT OF SHEET METAL) including my bumpers, chrome running boards and 17 inch wheels. I've put a third on my roof, hood, and front end and still have a very small amount left in my 4 ounce bottle, maybe 1/2 ounce or so.



To me the KSG/Sonus mix is easier to remove than AIO.



If you have both KSG and Sonus QD, you owe it to yourself and your arms to try mixing up a little to try. Hey use 1 1/2 ounce KSG and 1/2 ounce Sonus if you have a smaller car or jsut want to give it a try without mixing up more.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the info! I'd definately like to give this method a shot. I will purchase some sonus for next detailing season. My cars have already been detailed for this winter.
 
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