imported_jgv
New member
Greg said:
Yeap! I asked the same sometime ago! It's just like that, and smells worst
I hear that Klasse SG is hard to remove, any tips for easier removal
- Thread starter PDT447
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Yeap! I asked the same sometime ago! It's just like that, and smells worst
Bill D
Hooked For Life
jgv said:
Hey jgv,
I too used GEPC before AIO and SG but since then I've read more about AIO and now I wonder if the AIO just strips the GEPC,in other words, maybe using the GEPC before the AIO is unnecessary??
Pats300zx
Super Moderator
I have to agree with this..SG is not the most pleasant smelling product I have ever used. Works great though
imported_jgv
New member
Bill D said:Hey jgv,
I too used GEPC before AIO and SG but since then I've read more about AIO and now I wonder if the AIO just strips the GEPC,in other words, maybe using the GEPC before the AIO is unnecessary??
GEPC has some abrasives, as it's said. I like it to clean, and then prep the surface correctly for the SG, with AIO.
There's also a legend that it gets better if GEPC is used before AIO! (you got to believe the myths also :bow )
Bill D
Hooked For Life
Glad I did use it first then :xyxthumbs
Pats300zx,
I used to use the 2 towel method and encountered the oily film/haze. I then started buffing with just a dry towel. It was just too much work. I figured there had to be an easier way. This new method is definately the easiest most pain free I've found, while still delivering the standard SG protection.
Let me know how you like it.
I used to use the 2 towel method and encountered the oily film/haze. I then started buffing with just a dry towel. It was just too much work. I figured there had to be an easier way. This new method is definately the easiest most pain free I've found, while still delivering the standard SG protection.
Let me know how you like it.
maxshine said:
maxshine,
your paint can only accept a certain amount of wax/sealant. when you wipe on/wipe off sg, you are not wiping it all off, just the excess that your paint has not/ can not accept. it's the same principle as s100, wipe on wipe off. after you've buffed off the excess s100, does it mean you have buffed it all off? of course not. you still have protection.
so far I have not found a lack of dry time to affect the amount of product left on the surface. my sg still displays the same characterisitics as when I used to let it sit for an hour.
this winter will be the true test. we'll see how the sg holds up.
BN,
I just happen to be applying my winter coat also. So far SSR1, AIO, and my first coat of SG that I let dry for 3 hours - which came off mostly easy with a slightly dampened MF. I plan to put a least two more coats on. I'll try your method and see how it goes. I agree with your comparison w/S100.
Are you applying with foam or MF pad? Do you basically 'rub' it in until it starts to disappear (as w/S100) and then remove with dry MF ?
Thanks for your input.
I just happen to be applying my winter coat also. So far SSR1, AIO, and my first coat of SG that I let dry for 3 hours - which came off mostly easy with a slightly dampened MF. I plan to put a least two more coats on. I'll try your method and see how it goes. I agree with your comparison w/S100.
Are you applying with foam or MF pad? Do you basically 'rub' it in until it starts to disappear (as w/S100) and then remove with dry MF ?
Thanks for your input.
BillNorth said:
Acutally, I got the haze using both methods. With the damp/dry towel method, and with just using a dry MF towel and lots of elbow grease. After trying to isolate everything possible, I never found the cause of the mysterious SG haze. After 3 different attempts, and 3 different removal methods, I always got the haze. After these attempts, I gave up on Klasse SG. I have my own ideas as to why this occurs, but I never discussed them because I have zero proof to back any of them up.
Now, Bill, I'm always interested in new methods for applying/removing products. Your method seems interesting, although I believe since Klasse is oil free, that "set up" time maybe be critical. The friction of the "buffing" helps set the resins, but I wonder if using apply/remove method the resins would be too, "liquid", for a better term, to set on the surface after buffing. Even given my reservations, I will give this method a try. I have a few details on family members cars coming up soon, one of them can be my Klasse 2.0 test car. :up
maxshine said:
max,
I'm applying it with a terry applicator. I used to use foam (misted with FI), but I found that it wasn't as good at applying the sg "smoothly" (hard to explain). I then switched to terry applicators misted with FI.
I don't necessarily rub the SG until it's gone. I actually go over the area 4 or 5 time with the applicator until the sg starts to dry up. I then buff off. I'm actually using charismas to buff.
ShowroomLincoln said:
SL,
My mistake. I thought you only encountered the haze using the damp/dry towel method. So far, I have not had an issue with a dry towel.
About the resins being too liquid:
One thing I've found using this method is that SG is actually quite dry when I buff the section. I still have to put in some elbow grease (though not as much as with the old method) to get the sg off. On my blue car I can still see areas where I have unbuffed product. This tells me that the SG was quite dry, probably dry enough, when I attempted to buff. The car sheets warter as per sg, it has the sg "feel". Basically, I haven't noticed a difference with my SG using this method.
Give it a shot and let me know what you think.
JAGOWNER1981
New member
wow, i might open my bottle of klasse again. Waiting to hear more results from this thread....
I just put a coat on via the wipe on - wipe off method. Per Bill's comments above it still takes a bit of elbow grease (not much though) to remove it. I stop applying when it starts to 'disappear' and then wipe off. I removed with a cotton terry this time - I'll try a MF next coat to compare.
This was my second coat - the first I let dry several hours and it came fairly easy with a damp MF - I don't follow up with a dry MF.
This was my second coat - the first I let dry several hours and it came fairly easy with a damp MF - I don't follow up with a dry MF.
Great method on SG removal, Bill.
This gives me an idea to try the same method for #7 removal. Have been having similar problems with #7 removal, i.e. hazing and unbuffed product despite using lots of elbow grease (it also dries too quickly). Going to find that bottle of #7 left lying around somewhere and try the method as soon as i can....Yahooooo....
This gives me an idea to try the same method for #7 removal. Have been having similar problems with #7 removal, i.e. hazing and unbuffed product despite using lots of elbow grease (it also dries too quickly). Going to find that bottle of #7 left lying around somewhere and try the method as soon as i can....Yahooooo....
imported_Tony
New member
I am one of those that let SG dry usually over night. I have never had the haze and SG has always been very easy for me to buff using the two towel method. The only time I had a problem buffing SG was when I tried to buff the product before it dried. On that attempt the SG smeared and after that I followed Intel's method of waiting longer.
There is one thing Mr BillNorth and I do the same and that is to work the product when applying about 4 or 5 time per section. I perfer an MF application and spray the applicator with SG.
There is one thing Mr BillNorth and I do the same and that is to work the product when applying about 4 or 5 time per section. I perfer an MF application and spray the applicator with SG.
interesting read, I have not explored this method. looks like I will
For people that have had zero success with KSG, I always go back to prep. If there is anything on your car (or your applicator) that might interfere with any part of the Klasse process, it will hinder SG. That is why we use AIO so as to prep the paint. It's the big reason, why I don't recommend QD in the whole Klasse process period (except for final wipedown of last coat)
Finally, if you still can't get success with SG, AIO does a great job on it's own. After every 2nd or 3rd car wash get all the big water spots off your car and then follow up with a couple of coats of AIO (one working in coat, one laying coat) then buff. It's really all the protection you need.
one thing I did notice is that you're using a terry applicator (cotton). I would advise if you're not using foam you should be using MF. After all, this is Klasse you're talking about
For people that have had zero success with KSG, I always go back to prep. If there is anything on your car (or your applicator) that might interfere with any part of the Klasse process, it will hinder SG. That is why we use AIO so as to prep the paint. It's the big reason, why I don't recommend QD in the whole Klasse process period (except for final wipedown of last coat)
Finally, if you still can't get success with SG, AIO does a great job on it's own. After every 2nd or 3rd car wash get all the big water spots off your car and then follow up with a couple of coats of AIO (one working in coat, one laying coat) then buff. It's really all the protection you need.
one thing I did notice is that you're using a terry applicator (cotton). I would advise if you're not using foam you should be using MF. After all, this is Klasse you're talking about
I haven't used an MF applicator, but from some of the ppl I know who have tried it, they say it uses too much product. MF absorbs more SG. And I initially used foam, but it didn't do a good job of applying the SG smoothly. The terry app misted with final inspection seems to be the best way I've found so far.
Steve, I agree with you about not using other products when applying klasse. SG especially is very fussy. But one day I broke down and misted my app with FI because the initial few sections I sg'd didn't go on so well because the applicator was too dry. The FI hasn't created a problem for me thus far, hopefully it won't.
Steve, I agree with you about not using other products when applying klasse. SG especially is very fussy. But one day I broke down and misted my app with FI because the initial few sections I sg'd didn't go on so well because the applicator was too dry. The FI hasn't created a problem for me thus far, hopefully it won't.
rightlane said:
rightlane,
when you let SG dry overnight, do you need to buff off with a damp, then dry towel, or will it come off easily with a dry towel?
Also, going over the section 4 or 5 times is similar to the way the oldtimers like Don and beau used to do it. They actually applied the sg into the paint until it practically disappeared. They then buffed off whatever was left with a towel.