I got a Delorean coming in tomorrow

J

JohnKleven

New member
Has anyone ever tried to Opti-Guard a Delorean? Let me know your thoughts? I was going to spray Nanoskin Glass Molecule on it, but thought it might be fun to put something on it more permanent.







Thanks!
 
Stainless can be tricky. It does absorb and is pourous when brushed as a Delorean. I've refinished two tops on 57 Cad. Broughams even certain waxes/sealers can turn out blotchy. Never tried the new coatings but because of the grain an even fill is necessary.
 
CONCOURS.JOHN said:
Stainless can be tricky. It does absorb and is pourous when brushed as a Delorean. I've refinished two tops on 57 Cad. Broughams even certain waxes/sealers can turn out blotchy. Never tried the new coatings but because of the grain an even fill is necessary.
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I would think an airbrush or HVLP mini-gun would be the best route for that application; though the porous aspect of the material may have an adverse effect on OG's durability if it absorbs the coating instead of it curing on the surface.



Applying it with either the vehicle cold (to shrink the pores) or in a high ambient temp environment to accelerate the flash-off of OG so it crosslinks before having a chance to get into the pores might be a good approach.



Of course the other option is to just treat it like kitchen appliances. :lol:



Looking at what DMC themselves sell as a vehicle care kit gives some degree of insight:



DeLorean Motor Company - 9-2-0 Cleaning Supplies
 
It's "stainless" with a "grain".

It's not paint, and stainless is just that.

No application of "paint intended" products should be used.

Steel wool, look at the direction of the "grain" of the stainless and follow that.

It will bring it back to the original finish.

NO FINISHING PRODUCT IS REQUIRED OR NEEDED!

Allow me to "repeat" --- it is stainless steel!.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
It's "stainless" with a "grain".

It's not paint, and stainless is just that.

No application of "paint intended" products should be used.

Steel wool, look at the direction of the "grain" of the stainless and follow that.

It will bring it back to the original finish.

NO FINISHING PRODUCT IS REQUIRED OR NEEDED!

Allow me to "repeat" --- it is stainless steel!.

Grumpy
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Fully agreed here. I should have elaborated. I myself haven't seen anything that seems just right. Brushed stainless is nothing like paint.
 
And I can not recall what grade of steel wool I used back in the early 90's when I lived in LA, but think it was #000 or #0000, one just needs to have a good eye and go test on an area that is not easily seen.

One has to "follow" the grain of the steel as it was "brushed" from the factory or it likes-bad.

Did a bunch of them back then.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
And I can not recall what grade of steel wool I used back in the early 90's when I lived in LA, but think it was #000 or #0000, one just needs to have a good eye and go test on an area that is not easily seen.

One has to "follow" the grain of the steel as it was "brushed" from the factory or it likes-bad.

Did a bunch of them back then.

Grumpy
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Looks like what the manufacturer uses are gray 3M scuffing pads like PBE stores sell for body shop use... which I seem to recall are a 1000-grit equivalent.
 
Charlie, that may well be what was done to create that finish.

I recall watching a video, years ago, on how the body's were sent through a large "buffing" wheel, with a grey material on them.

That would back up with what you have added.

All I had when I did some was a "let's see how this works on a small area" attack, so found that the right steel wool did the job.

Not sure that back then one could easily access the 3M scuff pad you mentioned.

Grumpy
 
maxepr1 said:
John, painted or Stainless? Did one awhile back, paint very thin all over!
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It's stainless. I may just end up brushing it, but just curious if anyone has tried anything else besides stainless steel kitchen cleaner... Sounds like I'm not going to try the Opti-Guard this time.
 
I wouldn't recommend steel wool, the pads shed small amounts of iron, and it can become embedded in the S/S. Then it'll do what iron does and that's rust. It will stain the S/S. A good cleaner could be BarKeep's Friend using a 3M scouring/scuffing pad
 
:whoo:Just polish it out! :whoo:



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I've used these as an alternative to steel wool that will rust, these durable, three dimensional nylon web pads resist tearing and shredding. They are impregnated with aluminum oxide abrasive for a fast cut. 3M Scotch-Brite 7448 - Grey (ultra fine)
 
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