I Can buy a Makita 9227C perfect Cond $100 Worth it?

C

ce detailing

New member
i found a Makita 9227C in perfect condition locally for $100.



I never used a polisher, i was going to get a PC or G110 but idont know if i should pass this up?



any input? i only have till the end of the day to decide.
 
If you are going to use a polisher often, then I highly recommend it. You will get tired of the DA's in a hurry and want a rotary.



However, if you will only be using it on your own car every once in a while, I wuld hold out for a good DA.



Rotaries aren't very hard to use at all with some practice. You may like it even if you do only use it onc in a while.



weekendwarrior said:
Definitely a good deal, but if this is your first polisher, get you some junk panels to practice on....and EXPECT to burn paint.
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I've never burt paint with my roatary and I never expect to either.



I'm not saying that it can't happen, but I don't expect it to happen or dwell on it happening. It takes your mind off the job that you are doing if you constantly worry about it. Then, you do screw up.
 
I paid $100 for mine and got 4 pads with it and some 3M compound that promptly went into the trash. :P



It's a good deal and you won't regret it.



No way you'll burn paint unless you use yellow foam + compound and sit there for 5 seconds straight on the same spot at 2000+ RPM. It's not foolproof but it's not rocket science either.
 
ABQDetailer said:
I paid $100 for mine and got 4 pads with it and some 3M compound that promptly went into the trash. :P



It's a good deal and you won't regret it.



No way you'll burn paint unless you use yellow foam + compound and sit there for 5 seconds straight on the same spot at 2000+ RPM. It's not foolproof but it's not rocket science either.
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Most people I know that burn paint, do so on trim pieces or edges, never in the middle of a flat panel (even if you think you have taped the car up well, it can still happen). I am not going to mention any names, but in talking to some very GOOD pros on this site, burns are pretty common - and they happen most often when the user thinks they have gotten a pretty good handle on using the rotary.
 
ABQDetailer said:
I paid $100 for mine and got 4 pads with it and some 3M compound that promptly went into the trash. :P



It's a good deal and you won't regret it.



No way you'll burn paint unless you use yellow foam + compound and sit there for 5 seconds straight on the same spot at 2000+ RPM. It's not foolproof but it's not rocket science either.
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Maybe on metal pieces.



A bumper/plastic trim will burn basically instantly at 1600+ RPMS.



I don't care who says what. A rotary will take practice. Your pads will skip on you. You will have the rotary pull away from you.



Buy it and practice till you can handle it.
 
personally, i would get it. i suppose im a weekend warrior as far as detailing goes and got the udm- its nice but i wish i had just went with a rotary. anyway worse case scenario, you dont like and resell it
 
weekendwarrior said:
I am not going to mention any names, but in talking to some very GOOD pros on this site, burns are pretty common - ...
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This comment amuses me.



So, how are these GOOD pros staying in business if they keep messing up people's cars? Are they just hiding it? Not telling the customer and hope they don't see it? Do they pay for the repairs through insurance?
 
the cheapest i've seen is $165 and then you have to pay for shipping as well. get it, that's an excellent deal!
 
sixty7mustang22 said:
So, how are these GOOD pros staying in business if they keep messing up people's cars? Are they just hiding it? Not telling the customer and hope they don't see it? Do they pay for the repairs through insurance?
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In my experience, burns are not common, but they do happen, on trim and right angles.



We've done literally thousands of cars with maybe 7 or 8 issues.

We fix em. We work closely with 5 local body shops, and they can frequently repaint within hours when we're in a jam. (We get them out of a tight spot from time to time, also)



Repairs have been in the 200-400 range, much too low to consider an insurance claim.



Stuff happens. We just do the right thing and keep moving forward.



Regarding the Makita: it is a good buy, if you need it. If you just want a rotary to use occasionally, go to Harbor Freight...



Jim
 
ok so it doesnt come with pads, so what pads do you recommend???, wheres the best deals?

my inventory of waxes/sealants include Megs x-press wax, Poli-seal, CMW, OCW and i plan on adding more later.
 
Jimmy Buffit said:
In my experience, burns are not common, but they do happen, on trim and right angles.



We've done literally thousands of cars with maybe 7 or 8 issues.

We fix em. We work closely with 5 local body shops, and they can frequently repaint within hours when we're in a jam. (We get them out of a tight spot from time to time, also)



Repairs have been in the 200-400 range, much too low to consider an insurance claim.



Stuff happens. We just do the right thing and keep moving forward.
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Exactly. They do happen, but they definitely should not be a common occurance for a pro detailer. And, I agree with you that the majority of them happen on ridges and on trim.



I mean, if this is a common issue for some detailers, I just don't see how they can commonly shell out $200 to $400 for each repair and stay in business.



I didn't want to hijack a thread, but I did want to make a point that burning paint is not a common thing and that rotaries are safe to use as long as you take the proper precautions.



BTW, I love you screen name!:lol



ce detailing said:
ok so it doesnt come with pads, so what pads do you recommend???, wheres the best deals?

my inventory of waxes/sealants include Megs x-press wax, Poli-seal, CMW, OCW and i plan on adding more later.
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I like usin Lake Country Pads. I have some 7.5", 6.5", 5.5" and 4" multiple pads from Blue up to yellow in each. I also have a 6.5" fomaed wool pad and a 3.5" foamed wool pad. I have the two wool pads that came with the Makita that I use on occasion. The glass polishing pad is also nice to have.



I mostly use the 6.5" pads and 4" pads. They seem to work pretty well with the Makita.
 
weekendwarrior said:
Most people I know that burn paint, do so on trim pieces or edges, never in the middle of a flat panel (even if you think you have taped the car up well, it can still happen). I am not going to mention any names, but in talking to some very GOOD pros on this site, burns are pretty common - and they happen most often when the user thinks they have gotten a pretty good handle on using the rotary.
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Valid points here, but you can get burns in those areas with a PC. Granted a rotary will do it faster. I don't think this is part of learing how to use a rotary but rather learning how to machine polish in general.
 
stiffdogg06 said:
Maybe on metal pieces.



A bumper/plastic trim will burn basically instantly at 1600+ RPMS.

I don't care who says what. A rotary will take practice. Your pads will skip on you. You will have the rotary pull away from you.



Buy it and practice till you can handle it.
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Do you want me to post a video of doing exactly that? I mean I haven't taken the video yet but I can easily do it tomorrow when I get into the shop. I can hit the plastic and the rubber at 3000rpms and not burn it. I wouldn't recommend anyone else try it but saying that it happens instantly is kind of a rather bold statement. If you honestly and truely know how to use your equipment there should be very very little concern about burning anything.. Does it happen.. Absoultly. when one is either still in the learning process or just plain and simple not paying attention.
 
Burning paint is pretty tough to do but it does happen on occasion. I don't think anyone should be scared away from a rotary though. Start with lower RPM's and lighter polishes and pads. Basically , just be carefull.



Watch out for edges and newly painted surfaces. My best piece of advice is to watch out for tight places. It is areas where the pad does not fit and both edges catch. That is a recipe for disaster and resulted in the only burn I have ever had. But other than that, EVERYONE has the ability to use a rotary. It is not hitting a 2 iron or dunking a basketball!
 
sixty7mustang22 said:
This comment amuses me.



So, how are these GOOD pros staying in business if they keep messing up people's cars? Are they just hiding it? Not telling the customer and hope they don't see it? Do they pay for the repairs through insurance?
Click to expand...





I think I worded my post poorly. What I meant to say was that most pros I have talked to on this site in person have burned paint at least once - I didn't mean that they do it on a weekly basis by any means, just saying that it happens. Regarding how it is handled, any reputable detailer is going to make it right, either out of pocket, or through insurance.



My only point to my comments are that if you are going to buy a rotary, you just need to be aware of the precautions needed, and the possibility of burning paint. I am not saying to dwell on it, and stay in a nervous, uptight stae by any means, I am just saying you have to pay attention when ever the machine is on. Kind of like if you drive a car a lot, there is a good chance you will eventually have a fender bender (you may not, but the chances are good). The best way I feel to learn this is through practice (time behind the wheel so to speak), and I would rather learn on a beater or scrap panel before working on a car I care about.



I just wanted to clarify what I meant. If you don't agree, we'll just have to agree to disagree.
 
weekendwarrior said:
I think I worded my post poorly. What I meant to say was that most pros I have talked to on this site in person have burned paint at least once - I didn't mean that they do it on a weekly basis by any means, just saying that it happens. Regarding how it is handled, any reputable detailer is going to make it right, either out of pocket, or through insurance.



My only point to my comments are that if you are going to buy a rotary, you just need to be aware of the precautions needed, and the possibility of burning paint. I am not saying to dwell on it, and stay in a nervous, uptight stae by any means, I am just saying you have to pay attention when ever the machine is on. Kind of like if you drive a car a lot, there is a good chance you will eventually have a fender bender (you may not, but the chances are good). The best way I feel to learn this is through practice (time behind the wheel so to speak), and I would rather learn on a beater or scrap panel before working on a car I care about.



I just wanted to clarify what I meant. If you don't agree, we'll just have to agree to disagree.
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No, I agree with what you just posted there. I just didn't agree with what you posted before. Now that we have that cleared up, we can move on...
 
ce detailing said:
i found a Makita 9227C in perfect condition locally for $100.



I never used a polisher, i was going to get a PC or G110 but idont know if i should pass this up?



any input? i only have till the end of the day to decide.
Click to expand...



It's definitely worth it. Is it brand new? You'll definitely need some scrap panels to practice on or if you're bold enough, practice on your own vehicle. Just don't mess up. :2thumbs:
 
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