Hydro-Tech Pads

SP4449

New member
Guys,

I'm finally ready to buy my first DA polisher with a 5" backing plate and after reading various threads it appears that flat pads are popular along with the hydro-tech pads. When studying HT pads I see that I have an option to buy the 7/8th or 1 and 1/4 inch pads.

For someone new to using a polisher which pad height is my best choice?

Thanks,
Jim
 
Jim, I like using the 7/8" thin pads which gives me the option in removing swirls faster then the thick ones and also better control.
 
I prefer the thicker ones because polish oils don't absorb through to the backing plate quite as fast, causing pad failure. Basically, the thicker ones will last longer. I've tried and use both. I haven't seen any difference in cutting ability when using the GG6 DA.
 
Wow, I never even knew there was an option on what thickness you want. Does it really make a difference if you get 7/8ths over 1/4th? I mean do you really wear the pads down that much to where you are going to save another 8 bucks on a pad? Seems to me like 7/8ths would be the way to go...
 
I also would go with the thiner pads. They spin better, and thus polish better.

Wow, I never even knew there was an option on what thickness you want. Does it really make a difference if you get 7/8ths over 1/4th? I mean do you really wear the pads down that much to where you are going to save another 8 bucks on a pad? Seems to me like 7/8ths would be the way to go...

Only the 5.5 inch pads give you the option of choosing 7/8ths (thin) or 1 1/4 inch.

For a new polisher we recommend the 1 1/4 inch thick pads because it does provide more cushion and it holds the backing plate further from the paint to reduce the risk of damage.

7/8th inch pads are going to be more aggressive on a DA polisher and actually require LESS pressure to achieve optimal results.

The tiny (5/16ths of an inch) orbit is where the DA polisher creates most of its polishing power, not from the pad spinning (rotating). I personally disagree that a DA polisher needs to rotate in order to correct paint. If you think of a polishing pad like a bowl of Jello then it helps to visualize the process.

When you apply wax by hand, you apply the wax in tiny circles, which are orbits. This is true unless you are VERY flexible or you can disconnect your wrist like Lynda Blair in the Exorcist and make it rotate. That tiny "wax-on" motion is an orbital motion. So lets say you are applying a block of Jello to the paint by hand.

If the Jello block was very tall and all you where using was tiny orbits, the block would jiggle on itself. The part of the Jello that was contacting the paint wouldn't really move, as the orbital motion would be absorbed in the Jello. Unless you compress the Jello block by pressing down. As the Jello block becomes shorter (thinner) less and less motion is absorbed in the block and more is transferred to the paint. Even less pressure is required.

However a thinner pad does increase the chance of running the backing plate into the paint and damaging it, so there is always a compromise.
 
Thought the HT pads were closed cell foam the would not absorb liquid.:confused:
I prefer the thicker ones because polish oils don't absorb through to the backing plate quite as fast, causing pad failure. Basically, the thicker ones will last longer. I've tried and use both. I haven't seen any difference in cutting ability when using the GG6 DA.
 
Thought the HT pads were closed cell foam the would not absorb liquid.:confused:

yeah, better think again. It may fight off absorbing a little longer than a normal pad, but I've had MANY H20 pads burn and come apart/fail/melt from oils soaking in all the way to the backing plate which heats the oils up and causes all that.

The ONLY reason I still use them is because there is no other pad I've used that finishes down as nicely as they do, including the cyan pad, best finishing cutting pad I've tried so far.
 
Back
Top