Htec Op 50/50

[joe.p]

I'm usind the E2K light cut pad with hte above cut/polish and getting some halograms is this normal until i step down to a polishing pad.

I thought the idea of using a cut/polish was so you can go to your LSP ?

 

[LikeaRock]

You'll get holograms regardless of which pad you use. It might be a less abrasive compound since you've added OP but I don't think it could make it mild enough to leave a swirl-free finish behind, even via blue Edge pad.
I think the idea of adding a polish to a compound like HTEC is to add some work time to the product, make it a bit easier to work with and to create a product that's in between an aggressive compound and a mild polish, for moderately swirled or scratched finishes.
I've had some great results lately with the green Edge pad and OHC/OP mixed 50/50. I'm still messing around with how long/what speed works the combo best but regardless it leaves a finish with holograms.

 

[GBG TL]

I'm usind the E2K light cut pad with hte above cut/polish and getting some halograms is this normal until i step down to a polishing pad.

I thought the idea of using a cut/polish was so you can go to your LSP ?

Joe, EX/Optimum will remove a polishing step (from a 3 step process).

In my experience, when you use a 'cutting' polish and/or pad, you will have some clean up to do with a mild polish & pad for a mirror like finish.

In the past, if I had to compound it would be 3 steps:

SSR3, SSR2.5/SSR2, then SSR1, or Menzerna PG, IP, FPII as and example.

For neglected finishes EC/Optimum should save you some time. On finishes that have mild/med defects, you can get away with a single polishing step a lot of times -in this situation I would not use EX/Optimum. I would go for something like Optimum or FPII.

Does this help?

 

[joe.p]

Joe, EX/Optimum will remove a polishing step (from a 3 step process).

In my experience, when you use a 'cutting' polish and/or pad, you will have some clean up to do with a mild polish & pad for a mirror like finish.

In the past, if I had to compound it would be 3 steps:

SSR3, SSR2.5/SSR2, then SSR1, or Menzerna PG, IP, FPII as and example.

For neglected finishes EC/Optimum should save you some time. On finishes that have mild/med defects, you can get away with a single polishing step a lot of times -in this situation I would not use EX/Optimum. I would go for something like Optimum or FPII.

Does this help?

Today is my 1st day with the E2K pads and the polish/cut so i was a little unsure of what to expect. I used all my IP on the last detail i love that stuff it finished up real nice. Thanks for the help.

I've had some great results lately with the green Edge pad and OHC/OP mixed 50/50. I'm still messing around with how long/what speed works the combo best but regardless it leaves a finish with holograms.

I'm still trying to get a learning curve myself as this is my first go with the polish and pads. I seem to get better results with my Makita @ speed 2 with light pressure.. I was hoping to do a 1 step cut/polish but i guess you can't rush quality

 

[LikeaRock]

The green pad will become your best friend, it's so versatile it's almost nuts. For finishes that are in fairly good shape and only need a light polish the green pad with a finishing polish works great. Depending on what polish you're using of course, the green pad can cut deep enough with a swirl remover to remove minor swirling (via rotary, don't know about the PC) and still soft enough to leave a hologram-free finish. I've had great success using Presta Swirl Remover with the green pad, it's a great combo. Did a black PT Cruiser this morning with this combo and it looked great in the end. Presta SR finishes off damn good but somehow you can cut out minor scratches with it at the same time, best finishing polish I've used.
If you've got a pretty neglected finish the yellow foam pad with the HTEC/OP should work great. 'd show some pictures of the results I've gotten with the yellow pad and OCH.OP combo, but you know the new pics rule :bubba

 

[joe.p]

minor scratches with it at the same time, best finishing polish I've used.
If you've got a pretty neglected finish the yellow foam pad with the HTEC/OP should work great. 'd show some pictures of the results I've gotten with the yellow pad and OCH.OP combo, but you know the new pics rule :bubba

I know what what you mean about the pics. I always looked forward to seeing them along with the process used. How long have you been using the E2K pads. Have you tried the LC 7".5" pads these are the ones i was using. I really like the edge 6" pads on the rotary the smaller pads are easier to work with.

Thanks Patrick Holland..

 

[LikeaRock]

I know what what you mean about the pics. I always looked forward to seeing them along with the process used. How long have you been using the E2K pads. Have you tried the LC 7".5" pads these are the ones i was using. I really like the edge 6" pads on the rotary the smaller pads are easier to work with.

Thanks Patrick Holland..

I've been using them for just about a year now. I haven't used the LC 7.5" pads so I can't speak for them. I've got some 3M waffle pads and Meguiars 8" pads that I used when I first started practicing with a rotary. I haven't used the 6" pads either but I'm thinking about trying the green or yellow pad for some spot buffing. The 8" pads are actually really easy to work with, they're smooth as can be and with the edges and second side it makes buffing a breeze, having that nice edge to work with almost makes me feel like I'm cheating

 

[Bence]

HTEC alone can finish down LSP-ready on light colors and damn-near LSP-ready on darks. If you add OP, then you'll gain more workability, and an even better finish.

 

[joe.p]

I did a little more polishing today added some more OP to the HTEC and im still getting some halograms. I didn't have this problem with IP,but the previous car was white this SUV is dark blue. Im also having a harder time cutting the swirls on this one.

can you tell me a little about the paint on a 2003 Chevy TrailBlazer?

 

[Bence]

I did a dark blue Toyota Yaris recently, and initially I had difficulties with the swirl removal. The paint was REALLY hard, and I had to spin up to 2200 with an orange cutting pad, using very slow arm speeds and plenty of pressure (Boy, the panels were HOT!). The HTEC mastered the task beautifully and finished down almost LSP-ready. I removed the very faint holos with Optimum Polish and it was ready.

HTEC grabs the paint really hard, so you have to fight with the rotary, and sometimes, a random little gummy strip emerges from nowhere, but the overall performance of the product is great!

 

[joe.p]

I did a dark blue Toyota Yaris recently, and initially I had difficulties with the swirl removal. The paint was REALLY hard, and I had to spin up to 2200 with an orange cutting pad, using very slow arm speeds and plenty of pressure (Boy, the panels were HOT!). The HTEC mastered the task beautifully and finished down almost LSP-ready. I removed the very faint holos with Optimum Polish and it was ready.

HTEC grabs the paint really hard, so you have to fight with the rotary, and sometimes, a random little gummy strip emerges from nowhere, but the overall performance of the product is great!

Thanks for the information, although hesitant i did push down on the rotary and kick up the RPM's. The halograms are faint and will be easy to remove,Bence which orange pad did you use ? (LC)

 

[Bence]

Joe,

I was using a Riwax pad, because I usually choose from the local offerings (I am in Hungary). Riwax makes some really good ones; and this was a 16.5 cm × 5 cm. They have a new pad palette, which are 18 cms in diameter, only 3 cms thick, and have different colors than the usual yellow/orange/white/gray/black. The new set consists of a knitted wool, a blue light cutting/polishing, a white soft polishing and a dark gray finessing one.

I don't know what the equivalents are from for example LC's range, but I am satisfied with these so I don't have to order from the States.