How to detail non clear coated cars?

1)are you polishing by hand or machine

2)what polishes do you have available to choose from

3)what condition is the paint in

4)what color is the car

5)how old is the car



then i can start to help :)
 
Well with a machine, however since im still learing with my fathers polisher/buffer, Im going to just use an orbital buffer.



I have Liquid Glass Polish and (NEW)Turtle Wax Polish and the Meguairs 3 Step Process and some other stuff as well...



Paint is in good condition, owner says it has light oxidation.



Maroon



1977.



1977 Dodge Aspen thats in a VERY GREAT SHAPE, Ive seen the car in person however I never seen the oxidation. 54k Origninal Miles, it has all of the stickers and everyting ZERO rust, and has been GA Kept.
 
Same as clearcoat, just don't panic when everything turns maroon. It's not as much paint coming off as it looks like.



Tom
 
I would say to start with a polishing pad, and the meguiars step 1, see how that works out for the paint and proceede. The only difference between single stage and clear is that the pad is going to turn maroon, and the dust created will be maroon. Make sure that you tape all of the trim, it is hard to get the paint back off, and make sure that you dont get too aggressive. Only remove what little paint you need. Other than that, treat it like any other car.
 
Mosca said:
Same as clearcoat, just don't panic when everything turns maroon. It's not as much paint coming off as it looks like.



Tom
Click to expand...



:cool: This is true! isn't it scarry the first time you do a single stage, and there is all of the paint residue on the pad and towels. Knowing how thin paint is, it is crazy how much you can really remove, I turned 4 pads, and 6 towels red doing a 3000GT, it was such a weird feeling
 
317Indy- Thanks for the trip down memory lane, I worked in new car prep when those were new :D Heh heh, even in GA, I'm a little surprised it doesn't have any rust, given the build quality. He must've got an especially good one.



Yep, even with (mildly) abrasive polishes, you'll be OK. You sure don't want to remove more than you need to, but the pads are gonna scare you no matter how little you take off.



The SS paint they put on in those days is (or at least was when it was new) a *lot* thicker than the b/c *or* the SS used today. Today's SS is sometimes even *thinner* than the usual b/c. If the car has any stonechips, check out how thick that paint is.



The Meg's 3-step should work pretty well on that one, it's not all that different from the stuff Meg's makes specifically for SS paint. The step 2 product really will *feed the paint*, in this case the concept isn't BS.



Have fun and take pics if you can!
 
I just did a 4-runner that had the hood re-painted but wasn't cleared and yeah it turned my pad green but didn't do anything different from the rest of the car, I did do the hood last though and my pads cleaned up with no problem.
 
Alright guys thanks.



His car is immaculate, everything is stock and original, all of the storage and window stickers are on it. He got it from his grandmother and is thinking of eBaying it. So...
 
SS paint is just like working with a clearcoat except for the fact that you gain results quicker and with less aggressive methods. My recommendation is when you evaluate what you will do to it, just drop it a notch down because it will be easier than it seems. And yeah, prepare to wear the color that the car is painted.
 
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