How to define "protection" if not by beading, etc

From what I've read some manufaccturers claim that the resins that they use are soft and don't bead water very well( Search for a REFLECTIONS thread in which Forrest replied). Some manufacturers will use harder resin/polymers such as Acryllics which bead water better. Some mix resins with carnauba for beading in which case the carnauba can evaporate away while the resins still remain. Many manufacturers claim that protection exixts even tho beading is no longer present. This is an issue where you just have to take the word of the manufacturers and compare their claims against each other.
 
velobard said:
True, but that's distinctly different from the beading that occurs on a nice layer of carnuba.
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The beads will be slightly different, because the wax is actively repelling the water. But the beads don't look that much different from those on a waxed surface.
 
[quote name='Accumulator']We kick this around from time to time and I dunno if we're ever gonna reach a consensus :rolleyes: IMO:



If your beading changes, then something is different and it's probably not good.



Doing the no nozzle rinse method will eliminate almost all beading

Wax will cause more beads than a sealant



If your paint doesn't feel smooth/slick and shed dirt readily then it might need to be redone.

brake dust, having road grime and lots of crap sticking to your car is a sign that your sealer is no more



Paint will not stay absolutely slick all the time unless you clay as regularly as I do - after every fourth day cruise.

Choice of shampoo and applying waxes have a big effect on slickness

waxes take away some slickness and can allow fallout to stick better to paint.

just driving around, the air takes it away, getting dust and dirt on your car does as well



If your paint looks worse than it used to then it's way overdue for treatment.



If in doubt, just reapply your LSP because if things were really swell you wouldn't be in doubt



Basically I continue to put coats on until the point comes where I have to clay again but I only use sonus ultra fine clay
 
SVR- You forgot the [end quote syntax] at the end of my part..but what you added is so similar to what I do that it all reads like one of my posts anyhow :D



Yeah, between gentle washing, Sonus green clay, and regular LSPing the whole "is it protected" thing just isn't an issue for me and I'm not the kind of guy who reapplies his LSPs all the time. Always seems like a common-sense thing to me...



I can't do the flood-rinse in the new shop due to the design of my sillcocks and my boosted pressure. So I use an Air Wand to get most of the water off (but that's another topic for another thread for another time). But for people with more normal circumstances, the flooding-rinse *is* a great thing to do :xyxthumbs
 
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