How to clean a badly mistreated car

Strokes77

New member
My wife has a Black Ford Taurus. It is 3 years old, and has never been properly washed. There are dead bugs and various other things stuck to the front of the car, both the chrome, the plastic bumper, and the hood. If you run your hand across the paint, it feels like sandpaper.



After reading this forum for a few weeks, I have tried various wash methods(quality wash, 2 bucket, grit guards, ect...) and nothing seems to remove the terrible things on the front of her car.



Any suggestions moving forward? Products, or techniques?



I'll come back to ask about the swirls, white scratches once I feel like I have successfully "washed" the front.



This forum has a wealth of knowledge... I thank you in advance for your help.
 
have you tried a clay bar yet? some bugs are capable of eating into the paint. but it sounds as if you have a lot of paint contamination. something like valu guard abc decon and clay would be the way togo.
 
Chances are you are dealing with some etching stains on the bugs, a ton of bonded contamination and probably a film on the paint and glass from exposure.



Starting with an APC and a brush, work all your gaps and crevices, wash with a strong wash with some APC - invest in a clay bar (clay magic is probably the best bet OTC) and follow up with some cleaner wax or paint cleaner before waxing.



Youll have a little work to reverse 3 years, but it shouldnt be too bad. Wheels will require some copious amounts of brushing.
 
I clayed/waxed my brand new truck the other day, and it seemed to go well, although my novice eyes/hands didn't really notice a difference.



With her car, I was considering the clay, but I didn't want to try it if the damage was too severe to begin with? Is there a chance of damaging anything with the clay?



Thanks.
 
As long as nothing gets trapped in the clay(ie some grit you missed during the wash) youre absolutely fine.



Chances are your truck wasnt really badly contaminated but the fact you noticed the feeling of sandpaper on the Taurus tells us that there is in fact bonded contamination on it.



The only possibility, is a little clay marring(which happens to us all sometimes)which can usually be eliminated quite easily by hand if needed. Either way that contamination needs to come off before you take further steps to improve the vehicle.
 
Hi Stokes,



I would imagine from what you are describing washing alone will not solve your issues so your first point of call needed is a thorough paint cleansing i.e. using a clay bar or ABC process.



This will remove the contaminants that or on and in the paint that currently feel like the sandpaper your describing.



The next series of processes will depend entirely on what your desired result is and how much time and effort your are prepared to put in to achieve and maintain them. however you would follow the Clay bar with some form of corrective polish which will help remove your swirls and then follow up with a quality sealant or wax. These processes can be explained more as you require.



You are right this forum has a wealth of knowledge and some of the most skilled people in the industry and I'm sure some of which will add there thoughts to your questions.



Cheers Daniel





The upside is, it's not to late and the fact that you are here and searching / asking questions means you are on the right track.
 
After looking up the Acronyms, I know that APC is all purpose cleaner, which I assume is stronger than a typical wash solution? I will try that, but before I spend more money at autogeek, I will try the clay that I already have.



I will report the results, hopefully with pictures... Thank you all for your quick replies.
 
Sorry I should've specified, you don't absolutely have to wash with APC, some people just choose to because of its grime cleaning power. Many people will just use an APC as a trim cleaning solution with some brushing - ideally you could probably use some soap in a spray bottle and going around agitating anywhere drit or gunk would hide.



Let us know how the claying goes, If you run out of clay lubricant, just put a couple drops of car wash in a bottle and fill with water and use that as lube - keep in mind a final rinse will be needed after each section if you goes this route.
 
..also, APCs are general purpose cleaners. Some use(diluted accordingly) to clean interiors and carpets, some use other types of APCs for lower rockers and tires, wheels, wells etc..
 
What's the last thing to go through a bug's mind before he impacts with your car? His @$$!



Seriously, insect bodies and sap from certain trees (evergreens in particular) are highly acidic and should be removed as promptly as possible.



Surf City has a product called the Road Trip Grime Destroyer. It is a concentrated cleaner that you can use.

Here's a link to the their website.

Premium Car Care & Car Detailing Products - Car Wax - Car Polish ? Car Shine - Wheel Cleaners
 
Strokes77:

Your Black Taurus with the bugs stuck on it are a very common "paint problem" that owners face on their vehicles. Unfortunately, automatic car washes (IE, touchless car washes) that most vehicle owners use at gas stations or quik-car washes DO NOT remove the bug residue from these bug impacts. Here in the upper Midwest, grasshoppers and butterflies are probably the two worst insects that cause the most damage as they really "stick" to the front facias (bumber and grills) and can REALLY etch the paint over time if left there, especially in the hot summer sun. This is one of the reasons most Autopians do a hand-wash of their vehicles on a regular basis.

I see this "etching" all the time, and quite frankly, if you are trying to remove the worst of it by hand, you may get some of it out, but it will still look "bad" by most anyone's measure of viewing the paint.

As stated in previous posts, claying is probably THE most acceptable method to begin the contaminant removal process after washing. One suggestion about washing: DON'T attempt to vigorously SCRUB off the bugs with a bug pad. I've seen "uneducated/ignorant" owners attempt to use Brillo pads, Scotch-Brite pads, or Comet scouring powder to remove baked-on bugs, and yes, it DOES remove them, but it scratches the living day-lights (that's the politically correct term) out the the paint or chrome, and it's impossible to fix short of replacing the chrome or repainting the bumpers.

Once you've removed the bug contaminants from the paint, chances are they have etched the paint (actually, it's the clearcoat) and attempting to polish these out by hand is an almost futile physical job. Unless you are human in great shape, the "elbow grease" required to do so is exhausting, not to mention the patience it requires. It probably won't come out with 30 seconds of rubbing with over-the-counter Meguiar's Scratch-X 2.0. I am not trying to "bust your bubble": it's the reality of the effort.

This is one reason many Autopians have invested in a Porter-Cable Dual-action Random Orbital machine polisher (or "PC" as its ancromyn is noted here on Autopia). Use of a machine and pads and proper polishes will achieve results that hand-polishing could never achieve without the all the exhausting, physically-demanding "elbow grease". This is the next step after using the clay to remove or at least mitigate the etching on your bumper. If you can't or don't want to make an investment in one of these, you might find a fellow Autopian near where you live who can help you out.

Removing bugs from Chrome grills/trim is tricky and I find a more-abrasive chrome polish, like Simi-Chrome or MAAS metal cream, will work with a little elbow grease. On grills or trim, though, these are chromed-PLASTIC that easily scratches, so you will need to "adjust" how much elbow grease is required. On bumpers I use a true chrome cleaner, like Simonize chrome cleaner (I have an old formula thats like liquid sandpaper in a can) as it's chromed metal and more resistant to scatches.

On hard plastic trim, I use a tooth-brush and and a good All-Purpose Cleaner (APC), like Meguiar's Detailing Line D-101, (Yes, this can be purchased from an Auto Parts store). Just DON'T use Simple Green as an APC; it can wreak havoc on aluminum pieces so common on newer cars. Then treat it with a plastic trim protectant. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Protectant, but it's very finicky and tends to streak on some plastics (I think I have an early production batch that did have this problem). Some here use S100 Carnauba paste wax found at Harley-Davidson motorcycle shops (Great wax to have in your dealing supplies collection) or Collinite 845 Insulator Wax (845IW) (another must-have wax for do-it-yourselfer's) on plastic trim. I know that using a wax on plastic is counter-intuitive to what has been thought or experienced in the past, but you can try it and see if it works for you.



Yes, this is more-than-you-really-wanted-to know, but I hope it helps. Keep reading and searching this forum. You'll gain a wealth of experience and understanding, and perhaps you, too, will become an Autopian.
 
Strokes77- Welcome to Autopia!



If you don't mind ordering a few "specialty products", I have an approach that's worked great for me on countless neglected vehicles. Here's how I'd do it:



-Decontaminate car with AutoInt/ValuGard's "ABC" system or the FinishKare equivalent

-Either clay while the second part of the decon. system is dwelling or after the decontamination process



At that point the paint should be nice and clean. You can either hand or machine polish it (whole big topic that I won't address right now) and then apply some good LSP (Last Step Product, i.e., wax or sealant).



The decontamination systems work just *SO* much better than anything else I've tried, and they're easy; basically just doing a series of carwashes with "special stuff".
 
I've tried a half dozen or more all purpose cleaners, and zep citrus at your local home depot is still one of the best especially at the price ($12-15). Dilute it 4 parts water, 1 part zep citrus for tires, wheel wells, engine bays. You can also dilute it a bit more for paint, maybe 8:1 or 10:1, although I use it on lower panels at 4:1 and just make sure not to let it dry or walk away from it.



Then you're on the right track with clay. Once it is clean, make sure to keep a good layer of wax on the front of your car and side mirrors so the bugs are easy to clean off in the future.
 
you guys are forgetting the most important and crucial part...POLISHING (except Accum)



3 years later you might have smooth paint, but its still going to look like crap, even with a coat of wax on it.



Honestly, this sounds like a situation where you need to suck it up and take it to a pro and have him FIX the car, then you can maintain it from there on out...that would be the best and more cost effective way IMO
 
toyotaguy said:
you guys are forgetting the most important and crucial part...POLISHING (except Accum)



3 years later you might have smooth paint, but its still going to look like crap, even with a coat of wax on it.



Honestly, this sounds like a situation where you need to suck it up and take it to a pro and have him FIX the car, then you can maintain it from there on out...that would be the best and more cost effective way IMO



Eric, you are correct. I think we were focusing on stokes getting the existing crap off of the finish first instead of what he wanted the end result to be.
 
sorry, I was speed reading everything last night for whatever reason and didnt see the part where he said he would come back to ask about the swirls...



Still, i'd start off with letting a pro handle the fixing, then he finish with the maintaining....best course of action imo
 
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