How thin do you apply your wax?

I personly not a fan of turele wax. Ive tried a few of their products and there are defintly better otc products. Such as megs or mothers. I know the feeling of missing spots. I find if u look at it from diffrent agnles you can et a beter looks. Also try moves right to left then up and down. Do the left to right over the whiole panel, then the up and down. I find it covers rally well. The solution to your problem may be layering wax. on day one do a wax, then wait 24 hrs and give it another wax, this will voer eveything as well as give you a deaper, better looking finsish, plus the added protection. Good luck

P.S It just takes practice. As you do more and more it becomes easier and you will have no problems, just be patient it will come

Edit: also if you are hving trouble getting the wax onto the aplicator try letting it sit in the sun for 5 min and loosing up. It will be easier to use then
 
This car was clayed and was very smooth. I havn't had this problem with other waxes. Maybe this wax doesn't do very good if the panels are even slighty warm (which they were).

I'm just going to stick to doing at least 2 very thin layers and swich the product up.
 
sounds like you are close to figuring out the problem, good luck on your next waxing ,and let us know the outcome. and change waxes to.:)
 
Does anyone have any other suggestions on wax I should use? I'm sure S100, Pinnacle Souveran, and DP Max Wax are great stuff, but it's a little to much for me. I was looking for a little more economical wax since I will be using it on other cars, not just my own.
 
Use the reflection of a muted light, and in a garage that is not brightly lit, to see the product as you apply it. All that you are looking to do is lightly smear the surface of the car with the sealant or wax, and with this lighting it is easy to tell where you've been and how much is on the surface. This makes it real easy to see where you may have missed.

When it's time to wipe off, you can employ the same thing with the lighting to make it easier to see the hazed/non hazed areas.

I had always had a tuff time applying product thin until I happened upon the mix of lighting mentioned above, and ever since I haven't had a single prob with product going on too thick.
 
Maxima Lover said:
Does anyone have any other suggestions on wax I should use? I'm sure S100, Pinnacle Souveran, and DP Max Wax are great stuff, but it's a little to much for me. I was looking for a little more economical wax since I will be using it on other cars, not just my own.
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Well, exactly how much are you wanting to spend? I think S100 is around 14 bones or so at any Harley shop. You're looking at spending around 10 or so to pick up something like Gold Class. Kind of hard to thow out the recommendations when we don't know how much you want to spend. There's only so many choices under the $10 range.
 
JeffW said:
Use the reflection of a muted light, and in a garage that is not brightly lit, to see the product as you apply it. All that you are looking to do is lightly smear the surface of the car with the sealant or wax, and with this lighting it is easy to tell where you've been and how much is on the surface. This makes it real easy to see where you may have missed.

When it's time to wipe off, you can employ the same thing with the lighting to make it easier to see the hazed/non hazed areas.

I had always had a tuff time applying product thin until I happened upon the mix of lighting mentioned above, and ever since I haven't had a single prob with product going on too thick.
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Unfortunately I don't have access to a garage that often or lights. I'll try it a couple of times though if I can just to see that it really is going on, when I originally didn't think it was.
 
JaredPointer said:
Well, exactly how much are you wanting to spend? I think S100 is around 14 bones or so at any Harley shop. You're looking at spending around 10 or so to pick up something like Gold Class. Kind of hard to thow out the recommendations when we don't know how much you want to spend. There's only so many choices under the $10 range.
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Agreed. S100 will last a long time and is at a great price at the Harley shops. You use only a little bit and it is def. the best bang for the buck and you don't have to put an order through either.
 
JaredPointer said:
Well, exactly how much are you wanting to spend? I think S100 is around 14 bones or so at any Harley shop. You're looking at spending around 10 or so to pick up something like Gold Class. Kind of hard to thow out the recommendations when we don't know how much you want to spend. There's only so many choices under the $10 range.
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Sorry about that. $14-$16 isn't bad, but for the S100, that's only 6.2 oz. I do like the fact that it washes the dirt away and doesn't make spots. I'll probably use this on my car, but I was hoping to find a wipe on, wipe off product for about $1/oz. Feel free to tell me that I'm crazy.

The Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax, which I thought Way2SSlow was talking about, is way out of my league at $8.75/oz. If he was referring to the Liquid Souveran Wax, that is a lot lot better at $1.56/oz. Also DP Max Wax is at $3.75/oz.
 
Maxima Lover said:
Sorry about that. $14-$16 isn't bad, but for the S100, that's only 6.2 oz. I do like the fact that it washes the dirt away and doesn't make spots. I'll probably use this on my car, but I was hoping to find a wipe on, wipe off product for about $1/oz. Feel free to tell me that I'm crazy.

The Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax, which I thought Way2SSlow was talking about, is way out of my league at $8.75/oz. If he was referring to the Liquid Souveran Wax, that is a lot lot better at $1.56/oz. Also DP Max Wax is at $3.75/oz.
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At the price you're wanting to spend, I would imagine you'd have to go pick something up at Wal-Mart or something. Maybe a one step like Meg's or Mother's cleaner wax.

Just from reading your posts, it sounds like you want to make some money at detailing. I don't know how educated your clientel base is at car care, but personally, if I were paying you to detail my car and you showed up with some stuff I saw at the local store for a buck or two, I'd have to take into consideration how serious you were about me paying you to detail my car. If you show up with stuff Joe Schmo can go buy for a couple of dollars, they probably won't understand why they are paying you to perform a service that they could do themselves in a couple of hours.

Don't take that the wrong way, and don't think I am saying that all OTC products are not good, but if you're wanting to do this for money, it would probably help you to portray an image of being able to do something that your customer does not have the skill to do themselves.
 
JaredPointer said:
At the price you're wanting to spend, I would imagine you'd have to go pick something up at Wal-Mart or something. Maybe a one step like Meg's or Mother's cleaner wax.

Just from reading your posts, it sounds like you want to make some money at detailing. I don't know how educated your clientel base is at car care, but personally, if I were paying you to detail my car and you showed up with some stuff I saw at the local store for a buck or two, I'd have to take into consideration how serious you were about me paying you to detail my car. If you show up with stuff Joe Schmo can go buy for a couple of dollars, they probably won't understand why they are paying you to perform a service that they could do themselves in a couple of hours.

Don't take that the wrong way, and don't think I am saying that all OTC products are not good, but if you're wanting to do this for money, it would probably help you to portray an image of being able to do something that your customer does not have the skill to do themselves.
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People don't always pay for something because they can't do it. Some people pay for services because they don't like to do it, don't have time, or aren't the best at it. I paint houses right now and lots of people pay me even though they could do it, but don't want to for one of the reasons mentioned. Anyone can buy S100 and do it their self, it doesn't mean it's going to come out good.

I understand though. I guess when adding up the costs for the other products, it is worrying me that I'm going to be spending to much on chemicals and not end up with much money/hour.

How many applications to you get with a jar of S100?
 
Well over 30 coats for me. As I said a few times, you only use a little bit for each car. Personally, I am not too concerned about detailing for money or the cost of products most of the time, because you get what you pay for. Most of the money that I make goes back into supplies and such.
 
budman3 said:
Well over 30 coats for me. As I said a few times, you only use a little bit for each car. Personally, I am not too concerned about detailing for money or the cost of products most of the time, because you get what you pay for. Most of the money that I make goes back into supplies and such.
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If I can get 30 coats out of a jar of S100, I'll go for it.
 
Maxima,

How about a 14.5 oz tin of Finish Kare 1000P for US$16.28 (1.12 $/oz) or the same amount of 2685 Pink Wax for 15.73 (1.08 $/oz)???

I think it is HARD to beat...

Examples of layer thicknesses:

Application_thickness.jpg


Macro
waxlayer.jpg
 
Bence said:
Maxima,

How about a 14.5 oz tin of Finish Kare 1000P for US$16.28 (1.12 $/oz) or the same amount of 2685 Pink Wax for 15.73 (1.08 $/oz)???

I think it is HARD to beat...
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Those are pretty good deals. Do they cause water spots if the car is a little dusty and it rains?

I must have had a mental block though. The others aren't even that bad. Like the S100 at $2.66/oz is fine. I must have been thinking about a different type of product and thinking price/oz being expensive.


Bence said:
Examples of layer thicknesses:

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/Application_thickness.jpg

Macro
http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/waxlayer.jpg
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Thanks for the pictures! That's what I was looking for.
 
Not the wax causes the water spots, but the dirt and calcium deposits in the water itself. As it beads, the dirt settles to the ground (to the paint surface) and the water evaporates. The dirt stays there as a water spot. If the water acidic, it can cause etching, which is a below-surface damage - therefore needs leveling/polishing.
 
Bence said:
Not the wax causes the water spots, but the dirt and calcium deposits in the water itself. As it beads, the dirt settles to the ground (to the paint surface) and the water evaporates. The dirt stays there as a water spot. If the water acidic, it can cause etching, which is a below-surface damage - therefore needs leveling/polishing.
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Sorry, I should have said that differently. I shouldn't have said "cause" and said, "Do water spots happen with those waxes?"
 
If the water dries on the surface, yes - as with almost all products. Only extreme pooling dries spotless because the water doesn't bead up and can't "grab" the surface. Sheeting products can leave a few spots too, and it is funny because a nice, beady surface will stay wet for hours (causing later water spots) while an unprotected, pooling finish will dry much faster.
 
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