How often to change fluids?

Yep, the traditional stuff. I'm still uneasy. That may change. For now though, my supply is good.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, I would never be changing mine twice a year, but if it only takes you 10 minutes like you say, and I can't argue with your overall maintenance plan, your car looks like it is still in the showroom--no cleaner than the showroom! (from your pictures a month or two ago) I also have done the routine with taking out the drain plugs in the block...but I have to confess it's been a while since I've done that.
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thnks, i swear it only take me 10 minutes. when i do the drain plug, i have to put on some kind of sealant on the threads as per honda factory manual :hm and bill d is you your detaling collection so large that your now collecting antifreeze :LOLOL
 
I kinda jumped the gun when I realized the older anitfreeze might still be the best for my car and they stopped making it :o
 
jchetty said:
when i do the drain plug, i have to put on some kind of sealant on the threads as per honda factory manual :hm
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That's standard, the GM's were pipe threads, so they need some sort of dope; I used teflon tape.
 
Bill D said:
Is that anti seize compound? I'm dying for a lift at this point to do all of that!
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i hate promoting actual products but have u looked at kwiklift. their products are pretty expensive because you can get a 2 or 4 post for bendpak for bout the same :think: however most ppl, including myselt, dont have adequate clearance in the garage. this products looks promising, a bit pricy. i do know that when i get around to restoring the 80 camaro, i will be using a lift, i have never used this product so i cant review it :nixweiss
 
I'm going to find out what kind of lift a guy I know plans on installing, and then do my best to use his as long as possible :D



In the meantime, I plan on seeking out some power steering fluid to change the old with this weekend.
 
Bill, pipe "dope" is a sealer used to fill the microscopic inconsistencies in tapered pipe threads. In the old days (and still) it was a viscous liquid that would harden (to differing degrees, think of the different types of Permatex, if that means anything to you). Another pipe dope is teflon tape, which you wrap around the threads.



You don't need a lift, but you need jack stands. On the GM cars I have taken the plugs out on (I think only the 90 and 60* V-6's, although I might have done an 8), it really does save a lot of flushing, especially if you don't want to take the thermostat out. When cars get older, it seems like you are always changing something in the cooling system (hoses, water pump, thermostat) so it always seemed to me to be less critical to pull the plugs.



Oh, one piece of advice, on one of the cars I did, the starter positive cable connection was right in the swing arc of the wrench for the plug, so it might be prudent to disconnect that cable from the battery. Ask me how I know! :o
 
jchetty said:
i hate promoting actual products but have u looked at kwiklift.
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j, isn't that basically a glorifed set of ramps? The thing I don't like about that is you can't really get your wheels off (if you read it, you need to put a separate jack between the kwiklift and the car...so you might as well just do it from the floor).



There is this low rise lift: http://www.rotarylift.com/Products/Product_Detail/Application.asp which should be great for low ceilings and getting your wheels off, but I'm not sure about clearance to get to the engine/trans, especially for RWD vehicles. Maybe Accumulator will tell us what he has in his garage for a lift.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
when the technician was driving my car, he noticed that the windshield wipers needed to be replaced (it was a completely dry, sunny summer day, and of course the wipers were fine anyway). I just looked at the guy and said "You're kidding, right? I come in here for brakes and you're trying to sell me windshield wipers? Do people really fall for that? No, I don't want windshield wipers."
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On the service records for my Protege, there is a receipt including windshield wiper replacement, which was over $20 each! :lol And I can assure you, these were not high-quality, expensive blades! I wonder if the previous owner realized that you could buy those blades and install them yourself for 10 bucks and 5 minutes.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Oh...and I generally try to stick to the standard drain interval even when using Mobil 1, both for warranty purposes, and because I look at it as an extra insurance policy...I don't put a lot of miles on my cars, so the extra cost isn't a huge amount of dollars for the added peace of mind.
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Setec: What drain intervals do you follow? I believe our manual says every 5k miles/6 months under "Severe" driving conditions and 10k miles/1 year for "Normal" driving conditions. I put at most 40 miles on my car each week, so i'm going to follow the time intervals. Probably only once a year I'll do a oil change, which I plan on converting over to Amsoil come spring. Seems like way to many people on CRSX have had oil consumption issues with Mobil 1 on the RSX. I believe they blamed it on it being thinner than other synthetics, or something like that? :think:
 
Johnny, I was making a general statement on Mobil 1, which I have used on a lot of cars for a lot of years. As far as my RSX, I changed the oil the first time at 1000 miles, and I intend on changing it again at 5K, and every 5K after that. I haven't had any oil consumption problems yet...which reminds me, I should check the level...
 
Danase said:
Eh, I use Mobil One Synthetic in my car and still change it every 3000-3500 miles. That stuff is pretty dark when I take it out and I would not want to drive with the old oil for much longer than that.
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Agreed, I wouldnt let it go much further either
 
Lowejackson said:
Instead of just changing the oil at X miles, why not arrange for some oil analysis and take away the guesswork
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If I was driving a lot of miles, perhaps, but like Johnny, I drive a fairly low number of miles, so I just change it at the recommended intervals, because if I went much longer I would be at the time limit, anyway. Still under warranty, etc.





twopu said:
How do you get an oil analysis?
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here's a popular place: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
 
twopu said:
So the $20 fee will tell me about my oil and any possible engine problems?
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Well...IMO, unless you're a motorhead or engineering type, you're not going to get too much edification out of this. Presence of certain things (antifreeze, gas, certain metals) may alert you to a problem which would otherwise go undetected and might lead to catastrophic failure. Another common use is to utilize the information to adjust the oil change interval to your driving habits (which might be shorter or longer than the standard factory recommendation). IMO, for the average person, use a decent oil and filter, and change it at the recommended intervals (for severe service, unless you are the 1% of the populace that fits the non-severe), and leave the UOA (used oil analyses) to others. And remember, changing it more often is more important than what brand you use (just make sure to use the right weight), just like waxing your car often is more important than which wax.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
j, isn't that basically a glorifed set of ramps? The thing I don't like about that is you can't really get your wheels off (if you read it, you need to put a separate jack between the kwiklift and the car...so you might as well just do it from the floor).



There is this low rise lift: http://www.rotarylift.com/Products/Product_Detail/Application.asp which should be great for low ceilings and getting your wheels off, but I'm not sure about clearance to get to the engine/trans, especially for RWD vehicles. Maybe Accumulator will tell us what he has in his garage for a lift.
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yeah i agree, i wouldnt pay so much for kwik lift even though i work on my car alot :2thumbs: . one day i would a like drive on, because it so much quicker than pulling out jack, setting jackstands, jacking, chocking, dropping onto jackstands...rotarry lift i've heard good things bout them :woohoo: if anyone has them for a residential use or any lift ....pleeeeease start a thread it'd be cool...anyways...i go to pepboys 2day and :angry: all the antifreeze if 50/50...nothing wrong with it, its just so much more expensive and will cut into my detailing $$$ :sosad billD is correct no more full strength :bawling: so if you find any buy it and ebay it :grinno:
 
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