How often are people resorting to Colour /Wet Sanding.

W

Woody Wax

New member
I interested to know how often people are resorting to Colour/Wet sanding, even on those jobs that are not true or full corrections?



I find myself reaching for sand paper or discs more and more these days even when it's not covered in the cost or price, nothing worse than seeing that one mark or scratch tormenting you as you work.



Cheers Daniel
 
I am with you. Spending 20 minutes wet sanding a single small area on a major paint overhaul isn't a big deal.
 
Be sure to get good quality, high grit, sandpaper. And invest in some of the 3M foam and rubber backing pads. They make a HUGE difference in the quality of your sanding and the ability to easily polish it back out.
 
Amen, I reach for 2000 grit pretty often. At times the defects *may* be removed by several compounding steps, but you're just saving your arms/pads/product by knowing when wet sanding is just a more viable option.
 
Thanks for the replies,





Lol I just needed to hear that it's not just me. It just makes me feel better about having to do my own tomorrow





I mean I do understand that in some cases it is just a matter of course, but as I mentioned I find it easier and in my case get a better result quicker than extra mutable compounding steps on a relatively small area or areas.





Cheers Daniel
 
Lately I have needed to sand more. Going around for inspection and measuring thickness. I have been sanding first(pending initial polishing if it will require multiple sets with enough material), that way it pops out like "HELLO HERE IT IS" so I know exactly where I need to remove it, and second the sanding marks are a constant reminder of where i am at.



Plus, hell, you can't argue with the speed of removal - even if its only "rounding down" something that you couldn't completely eliminate.
 
It's probally not nessasery to explain on this site, however for those interested.



These are the types of scratches I was refering to.





DSC_0985-1.jpg




DSC_0986-1.jpg




DSC_0987-1.jpg




DSC_0994-1.jpg




Thanks for looking.



Cheers Daniel
 
I'm just a weekend warrior without a PTG and I'd only do wet sanding with a PTG so I haven't ever done it. Wish I could afford a PTG though.
 
lostdaytomorrow- Something to consider (from a guy who got by without an ETG for a good long time ;) ) is that with the right aproach, wetsanding can be *safer* than aggressive compounding. With the paper you can go one stroke at a time, over a small area, with a very gentle grit; with an aggressive compound (even "just" M105 on a harsh pad) you're doing a whole lotta work over a pretty big area every time you turn the thing on. And by-hand wetsanding doesn't generate the sort of heat that foam pads do.



I'm just posting this because some people who'd never touch sandpaper don't hesitate to use M105/aggressive foam pad combos.
 
Bear in mind also that there are higher grit sandpapers than 2000. I have up to 12,000 Micromesh stuff. It feels like suede or velvet. Generally when I've done higher than 2000, I've gone with 4000 or 6000 and worked my way up, most of the finishing with a light polish like M205 or PO85RD. I've taken this approach in tight spots such as around emblems. It allows for correction in a more controlled area.
 
Bill D- Eh, I gotta try my extra mild sanding media some time. Sheesh, I haven't even looked at that stuff for ages, it's just sitting there. I *think* I have the same "super-fine" assortment that you do, but I can't remember for certain.
 
It's much safer to wetsand at times. Sometimes compounding too hard, and producing too much heat will cause the paint to fly off the car.
 
JohnKleven said:
It's much safer to wetsand at times. Sometimes compounding too hard, and producing too much heat will cause the paint to fly off the car.
Click to expand...



+1 to this, if you know what you're doing it can be safer, faster, and more efficient.
 
So for those of you who replied with a 'yes' (basically all of you lol), what do you find yourself reaching for more...a disc or a sheet of 3000 to do an area?



I've been one who has been a little reluctant to try it on paint but...its time to give it a go. I have up to 3000 Uni-grit paper from megs (sheets) for hand sanding

but only up to 1500 for discs. Ive seen a TON of 'wetsanding how to videos and write ups' but hard to tell whats safe and whats not.



If anyone has a link to a good write up or video (preferably a video) for me to check out just to get my last 'lesson' in before trying it i'd appreciate it.
 
I would think a disc would be faster to get more uniform, however if you aren't familiar with time, speed and pressure that could equate to alot of material removal in a short time, whereas with hand sanding your slurry basically starts right away and really is a good way to learn IMO.



Plus you can't feathersand with a machine, really only by hand. For spots here and there, I like hand sanding, its just faster and otherwise less cost. Then again, I am speaking with a level of familiarity.



If I were sanding large areas, a disc is obviously much faster.
 
For small spots I hand sand every time. If i have a scratch running the length of a panels I use the DA and Norton Dry Ice system (1500 grit followed with 3000 grit). I was suprised Norton doesnt have an intermediate paper, but the 3000 seems to take care of the 1500 grit marks pretty good.
 
Yea thats a perfect example.



And ideally Willis, you have to figure on X pressure and speed, 3000 grit is going to equate to a RATE at material is removed. 1500 does it WAYYYYY faster, but you CAN get low grit scratches down with high grit paper(within reason) its just going to take a lonnnng time with some.



I often go 2K to 3K or 1500 to 3K. 3K scratches are a breeze to remove.
 
As Both JP and Mike have covered above.



It depends on a lot of factors, how big is the scratch or scratches, how deep, and where?



The same as polishing paint, assess the scratch and determine how much and what it required to remove the scratch whilst removing the least amount of paint.



For small stand alone scratches like in the pics in this thread I reach for a small block, then depending on the depth of the scratch I will start with 1500 for the deeper ones and generally refine with 3000. If you have a large scratch or a group of scratches then the DA will cover a larger area quicker.



If you are only starting out sanding, I would strongly recommend hand over DA. doing it via hand you will have a little more control and feel as you work. just remember to wipe the slurry clear regularly and check your work.
 
All that makes sense and pretty much re-confirms all that ive read so far. So for hand sanding with a 3000 for example....about how many 'strokes' or hand passes should i do? 6-8...more...less? Ive heard different opinions on what direction to sand, some say if the scratch is north n' south...sand east and west. Some have said sand cross hatch..like left n' right then up no down....some say sand in the direction of the scratch lol...SO many different opinions...any thoughts?



Also, just for sake of knowledge, when i do get into DA sanding...what speed (say for the older 7424) would i want to be at, how fast should my passes be and do i just go in ONE direction or do i make cross passes like when polishing paint (north/south then east/west).
 
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