How much protection does AIO offer by itself?

T

TGates

Active member
I currently prep with SSR1, then AIO, then top with NXT and maybe a carnauba if I feel like it. I was just wondering, out of curiosity, how much protection AIO offers as a stand alone product. I know it's cleaning abilities are great for prep work, but how much of an AIO is it really, with regards to protection after the prep it offers?
 
IMO, it looks great after the initial application but after 2-3 washes, its beading properties are not very good and it loses it's shine pretty quickly too. I don't think overall protection is any better than a good carnauba like PS21 or #16.
 
On it's own, it seemed to hold up well for about 3 months. Just washed every 2 or 3 weeks. This car was garaged as well. A lot of variables to consider (weather, washing, road time, etc.). After 3 months, it needed something though. Your regular regiment sounds solid.
 
Klasse All-In-One was originally a one-step product and with the application of the Sealent Glaze offered more gloss.

AIO as a stand-alone protection IMO will last 6-8 weeks+

JonM
 
Now see that's wierd, because if you read the directions on the back of the AIO bottle, it states, and I quote Apply small amount of KLASSE on clean and dry surface with a DAMP cotton cloth. Use eve, firm pressure. Wipe off. No drying time necessary." So...if no drying time is necessary then why do we have to we have to wait for it to bond to the surface???
 
maxedmax said:
Now see that's wierd, because if you read the directions on the back of the AIO bottle, it states, and I quote Apply small amount of KLASSE on clean and dry surface with a DAMP cotton cloth. Use eve, firm pressure. Wipe off. No drying time necessary." So...if no drying time is necessary then why do we have to we have to wait for it to bond to the surface???
Click to expand...



Application, drying, remove residue and cross-linking are four separate processes.

1)Apply product



2)Residues should be dry when you buff them. If the residues are still wet, you are using too much product. Swipe Test: after sufficient drying times do a quick swipe test with your finger, if the paint is clear and no smearing or drag is evident



(3) the residue is ready to be removed. If the area you have swiped is smudgy, or streaky, or there is noticeable product, then it has not had sufficient time to set-up, allow more time before your remove it.



4)Sufficient time should be allowed to enable cross-linking, 12 â€â€œ 72 hours is recommended before the application of further â€Ëœlayersâ€â„¢ or other products (i.e. a Carnauba or QD)



As can be seen the product that has adhered to the paint surface is allowed to dry the excess (residue) is then removed, while the product that has adhered to the paint surface is allowed to cross-link.

JonM
 
I have to say that I share maxedmax's confusion. The instructions on the AIO bottle do suggest a WOWO approach. But, David's comments indicate that might not be optimal.
 
I use AIO as a stand alone for door jams, windows, and other things that don't necessarily need a high grade paint sealant but can use some decent protection and cleaning. Not too many people feel like doing a two step process on door jams, but they need to be spiffed up if you detail for profit, and AIO is the easiest way to clean and protect those areas. I also use it on paint obviously but not as a stand alone, but I feel you probably could if you detailed often. I always WOWO with AIO because if you let it sit, it will be harder to buff, but still easier than SG. I actually was using it on todays detail and came back to a spot I forgot and had a bare of a time buffin it out. To each is own but WOWO works for me.
 
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