how many use Rubbing alcohol to see if they really did do paint correction?

A

autojss

New member
Hi guys,



friend and I are big fans of this site.



After alot of reading I went with m105 on rotary(megs red pad)



afterwards m205(megs yellow) to do some polish correction work.



my cars are both black.



my question is I read alot of member saying after one pass this is the correction(then picture added)



and the paint looks new.



now I have been doing some rotary work for years. but I am not a pro



after getting m105 in the mail.. after 2 passes the paint looks soo good like new .



but I question if I really did any repair after such little effort



I take rubbing alcohol with microfiber to remove the film of m105 and underneath looks just like I started. which leads me to think m105 is all fillers and most of the pictures I see on this site are not true correction but filling up damage and carring on.



now make no mistake I can get m105 to work just fine if I really want it to. lots of slow moving passes and lots of m105 product.



I am not here to bash anyone or any products.



I am just wondering those that do 50/50 shots are you really doing correction?



your thoughts would be great thanks alot
 
You can also use the sun, which will flash the oils off of black paint pretty quickly. In any event, if you are charging for a correction, you should do a wipe down or pull the car in the sun and let it sit to bake out the oils to make sure you are actually removing the defects.



Last time I used #105 (followed by #205 and Ultrafina) via rotary on my own car was back in August. Nothing has come back and zero holograms anywhere on my car 9 months later. If those products do nothing but fill, they must have some pretty indestructible fillers in them.



And yes, you should be using #105 with some pressure and SLOW passes to get it to work properly.
 
I could be wrong but I'm under the impression that a lot of detailers that do 50/50 shots are doing multi steps and then take the pics.



So it could be 3 step process before they take the side by side pic, I know I've done that.



I've done quite a bit of IPA wipe downs with different products and after a while you learn which products do the certain level of correction and which ones are filling and such.



Josh
 
I seldom use IPA with M105 because I'm doing such aggressive work that nothing I'm concerned about is gonna get concealed anyhow. If I correct a RIDS I'm confident that other milder marring will be corrected along with it.



With the follow up steps, I *do* IPA/PrepWash, because at that level of correction some finer marring *could* get concealed.



That's assuming I really *care* all that much. Last time I did the A8's front bumpercover I just gave it a quikie pass with M80 and went right to LSP. Quick, easy, and it "looked better". It's been a few months now, and it still looks OK. But then I don't get all "Autopian" about every panel on every vehicle every time either ;)
 
Accumulator said:
That's assuming I really *care* all that much.
Click to expand...



I am the exact same way with my car. Still looks better than 99% of the cars on the road so I just don't get that anal about it.



Guess I did all right though, #105, #205 and Ultrafina all by rotary in August and here it is the middle of May after the roughest winter in 30 years in Dallas and my car is still almost completely spider swirl free and there isn't a single rotary hologram to be found. :)
 
Did you use a lot of pressure when wiping? Is the marring directional(straight lines)?



It could be that your microfiber is causing some marring when you wipe..
 
so for the IPA wide downs, what's the best ratio to use?



i hear 50/50 of h20/alch ? or is it suppose to be a full alcho wipe down?
 
dmw2692004 said:
Did you use a lot of pressure when wiping? Is the marring directional(straight lines)?
Click to expand...



No more pressure that required to get the job done; I rely primarily on solvent-action. [Insert another plug for TOL's PrepWash here..]



And I don't concern myself with the direction, I use whatever's convenient/comfortable. Yeah, I know, if there's a problem...but if that happens I'm gonna fix it anyhow no matter how obvious/not it is.



It could be that your microfiber is causing some marring when you wipe..
Click to expand...



Not if the MF is soft enough for such work anyhow. But the *product residue* sure can cause marring! I always use #34 when buffing off M105 residue for just that reason.



 
Accumulator said:
No more pressure that required to get the job done; I rely primarily on solvent-action. [Insert another plug for TOL's PrepWash here..]



And I don't concern myself with the direction, I use whatever's convenient/comfortable. Yeah, I know, if there's a problem...but if that happens I'm gonna fix it anyhow no matter how obvious/not it is.







Not if the MF is soft enough for such work anyhow. But the *product residue* sure can cause marring! I always use #34 when buffing off M105 residue for just that reason.
Click to expand...



Question. Why don't you use the Prep-Wash for M105 residue? And what's your technique for PrepWash? I tried it full-strength on some 205 residue and to strip LSP on my hood, and it became a big, streaky mess. TIA
 
mikenap said:
Question. Why don't you use the Prep-Wash for M105 residue?
Click to expand...



My primary concern with the M105 residue is micromarring from the abrasives (especially once the various lube/carrier agent/whatever stuff is dried out). The #34 has better lubricity to help with that. ONR is another good (better?) choice, but I'm just a sucker for #34 so I usually reach for that instead.



And what's your technique for PrepWash? I tried it full-strength on some 205 residue and to strip LSP on my hood, and it became a big, streaky mess. TIA
Click to expand...



Basically, I just "use as directed". I mix it a little strong, but I don't use it undiluted. I spray it on, let it dwell, and wipe it off with a damp, or even *wet* MF (usually a MF mitt). Then I'll often spray some distilled water on the panel and wipe it off some more. I keep using it until it stops bringing up oils, watching for that "rainbow" effect where the oils mix with the PrepWash.



I can't help but wonder if your "steaky mess" was almost a "feature", you know...as in, it was getting the M205 oils and the LSP to rise up off/out of the paint.



Can't help but wonder how it'd work even more diluted than the advised 50:50 mix; the previous version had a list of various dilutions for different applications.
 
Accumulator said:


My primary concern with the M105 residue is micromarring from the abrasives (especially once the various lube/carrier agent/whatever stuff is dried out). The #34 has better lubricity to help with that. ONR is another good (better?) choice, but I'm just a sucker for #34 so I usually reach for that instead.







Basically, I just "use as directed". I mix it a little strong, but I don't use it undiluted. I spray it on, let it dwell, and wipe it off with a damp, or even *wet* MF (usually a MF mitt). Then I'll often spray some distilled water on the panel and wipe it off some more. I keep using it until it stops bringing up oils, watching for that "rainbow" effect where the oils mix with the PrepWash.



I can't help but wonder if your "steaky mess" was almost a "feature", you know...as in, it was getting the M205 oils and the LSP to rise up off/out of the paint.



Can't help but wonder how it'd work even more diluted than the advised 50:50 mix; the previous version had a list of various dilutions for different applications.
Click to expand...



No directions on mine, the printing on the label was unreadable. I sprayed it on and tried wiping it with a dry MF, I think that was my issue. Thanks.
 
mikenap said:
No directions on mine, the printing on the label was unreadable. I sprayed it on and tried wiping it with a dry MF, I think that was my issue. Thanks.
Click to expand...



Aha, yeah...I bet that explains it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top