How long does a glaze last?

3

3puttjay

New member
I want to put on some DWG on my car this weekend and then layer with collinite 476S. I saw somewhere on here that a glaze will on last a few weeks even if topped with wax. I thought about doing this for my weekend detail that was supposed to last me until fall. I was going with 2x DWG>476S>DWG>476S>476s. Will this last me until fall or am I going to have to add another danase glaze layer every 3 weeks?.:buffing:
 
Thanks for the post. I found it very informative. I'm wondering if I should start with 476S first before layering the glaze on. I'm sure, if I have the time, I'll put on more glaze and wax every 6 weeks, but I'd rather not if I can avoid it.:(
 
I personally can't comment on that because I haven't tried it, nor do I have any Danase stuff. You could conduct a test, glaze then Collinite on half a hood and then Collinite, glaze, Collinite on the other. I would suspect that the Collinite first would last the best but I'm not a believer that a glaze after a wax will be beneficial ... I don't agree that layering products with DWG is worth it, it's more of a waste of product. But that's my opinion, take it for what its worth.
 
Most glazes don't have any sealant or wax in them, which means that unless you top them with a true LSP they won't last very long at all. A wash or two, maybe. However, DWG is a combination glaze and sealant. It's supposed to be quite durable. And of course you can top it with a sealant or wax.
 
I'm adding the glaze to make the car appear wetter and also to fill in some deep scratchs that I wasn't able to polish out. I just would like the glaze and wax combination to last as long as the most durable component (476S). My concern is that even adding on more layers of 476S on after the glaze layers it will just last only 6 weeks.
 
if youre concerned about how durable your combo will be why not just add more layers of 476 until youre happy with it then keep layering the DWG to your hearts content on top of the 476. that way if the DWG gives before the 476 your car will still be protected and the DWG will act as your sacrificial layer. thats what i would do if i was trying out a combo similar to yours assuming how easy DWG is to apply just from reading the different threads about it on here.
 
First to the OP



DWG works great over or under a wax or sealant. You can see a month or so out of it if its topped. DWG doesn't fill IME. It acts mor like a short term sealant that is really wet and glossy, not like a oil glaze (#7). I have gotten extreme wettness using DWG then topping with AW. So much so that non-fanatical (normal people) have noticed this. The only down side to this superwet look is that is almost fake looking. My fav right now is DWG topped with #26. This looks great on my Ranger.



On on another note, saying that a glaze has no place other than a bodyshop; Maybe you should try DWG or the like(here are starting to be more and more sealant-galzes). It doesn't act anything like an oil galze. It doesn't wash off after 1 wash/rain. It isn't sticky, in fact is really is slick when first applied. It does add somthing to the look when used over or under a LSP, or as just the LSP. It really has become my favorite thing to put on paint.
 
detailjohn said:
Why would you use a glaze if you're putting wax on the car? A glaze is a body shop safe wax replacement, it belongs in a body shop.
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Glazes can add alot to the final appearance of the LSP. I don't agree with using them to cover up flawed preperation at all, but putting a good glaze down before a wax (or sealant if you're using a sealant safe glaze like DWG) adds more depth and glow.
 
Thanks, Eliot.



Ok, I read the article and I have a question regarding the removal technique.



"Instead, "Break" or "Disrupt" the "Continuous" layer of film-build and then move on to a virgin area and "Break this film-build up.



You see, #7 doesn't actually dry, but… it will "Skin", somewhat like homemade pudding.



This "Skin" is easier to break up and remove then the more liquid film is.



By breaking up the continuos film-build and then moving on, you are exposing a fresh layer of the film to the air where it will skin. The next time you come around, it will be easier to break up and remove."



Am I reading into this a little too much? Can someone elaborate on this a little more?









Eliot Ness said:
Here is a good link for using #7 by Mike Phillips from Meg's:



http://www.autopia.org/forum/detailing-articles-videos/23740-meguiar-s-7-mike-phillips.html
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3puttjay said:
I'm adding the glaze to make the car appear wetter and also to fill in some deep scratchs that I wasn't able to polish out. I just would like the glaze and wax combination to last as long as the most durable component (476S). My concern is that even adding on more layers of 476S on after the glaze layers it will just last only 6 weeks.
Click to expand...



Nah, a good wax will look much wetter than any glaze.
 
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