How long do you spend on a detail?

L

lflorack

New member
I recently completed my first professional detailing job. Although the results were excellent and the client was extremely happy (said it looked better than the day he bought it), it took me way too long to complete the job. It was a White Pearl 2003 MDX with a fairly dirty interior and a 'buggy' exterior. The paint was in pretty good shape.



I'd estimated that it should take 6 hours for an interior/exterior detail. It took 13 hours. Some of this is due to my inexperience but certainly not all of it.



I'm interested in what amount of time I should allow for a full detail. In other words, what do each of you spend on each portion of your detailing jobs?



For a better understanding of what I did in this case, I've detailed what was done:



Outside:

- Wash using Zaino Z-7 car wash. About an hour was consumed for bug and tar removal. The bugs were particularly bad and had been on the car for quite a while. There was also a fair amount of tar, etc. on the rocker panels, etc. Used Stoner's Tarminator.

- Clay Bar

- Wash using Zaino Z-7 car wash to remove Clay bar and QD residue

- #9. Since the MDX's paint was in pretty good shape, I probably could have left this step out (by assumming that AIO could handle it) and saved some time. Used PC on 4.5 with polishing pad

- AIO applied by hand, removed with MF towel. First time using this. Went on and off very easily. I liked the result.

- NXT applied by hand. First time using this as well. Went on and off very easily. I liked the result of this too. I didn't use SG because it was fairly humid and I thought NXT might be easier.

- Meguiars Endurance on tires

- Meguiar’s Shine on all exterior vinyl (splash guards, etc)

- Meguiars Plastic Detailer on all clear plastic lenses

- Elapsed time - 7 hours.



Inside:

The inside was fairly dirty for a relatively new vehicle -- because of two kids, a dog and some recent use as a utility vehicle and also due (obviously) to a bit of neglect. Here’s what was done:



Vacuum; Meguiar’s carpet cleaner on minor spots, Lexol Vinylex on all vinyl, Lexol cleaner then Lexol conditioner on all leather; Meguiar’s Shine on all winter (rubber) mats; Meguiar’s Plastic Detailer on gauge faces; Stoner's Invisible Glass on windows; there was also a rubberized canvas cover for protection of the rear interior portion of the SUV. It had to be taken ‘apart’, removed from the vehicle, cleaned (washed), lightly wiped with Vinylex and reinstalled. The rest of the time was spent on standard efforts like salt removal from carpet, dust/dirt removal from all crevices, etc. Elapsed time (simultaneously with exterior effort) 6 hours



Total hours = 13



Thanks in advance!
 
13 hours does seem like a pretty long time. Without really knowing what condition the vehicle was in, how fast you were working, or what techniques you were using, its hard to say what took you so long.



I can give you a few tips though: Keep your work area organized so you're not spending too much time looking for stuff; if you're going to clay, don't bother drying the vehicle before you do so; when you do the interior, work each section completely (carpets, windows, vinyl, etc. before you move to the next. That way you only make one trip around the vehicle.
 
I would generally take about 6-7 hours for a full detail on a MDX, but sometimes you can just be a little tired, or a little un organized, and that costs you a couple hours.



I generally answer your question with: Whatever it takes. Just do the job, do it right, and in time you will find that your speed picks up!
 
i will answer ur question by saying my time for that vehicle would be in the 7 hour range or so. Also as my grandfather used to say and i beleive in this. It doesnt matter how long something takes you, as long as it is done right.
 
Agreed - do it right, but work on developing a system to make your work more continuous. A full detail normally takes me 5-8 hrs. depending on the condition of the car.
 
As others have stated, you can cut corners and save time by not drying the car before claying. Also, I always just rinse the car after I am done claying, because I will then begin to use a paint cleaner which will remove anything else that I didn't pick up.



A couple other tips:



WHen doing a full detail on other ppls cars, please do not promise full swirl/scratch removal. Unless you are an experienced detailer, it would take you hours upon hours to do it unless you are skilled with a rotary. Imo, don't overdo it to other ppls cars. They get what they pay for. Wash, clay, polish(paint cleaner), and wax is all that is needed. Any defects as mentioned above should be extra.



Just some advice for ya.







Aaron
 
hondaguy2582 said:
As others have stated, you can cut corners and save time by not drying the car before claying. Also, I always just rinse the car after I am done claying, because I will then begin to use a paint cleaner which will remove anything else that I didn't pick up.



A couple other tips:



WHen doing a full detail on other ppls cars, please do not promise full swirl/scratch removal. Unless you are an experienced detailer, it would take you hours upon hours to do it unless you are skilled with a rotary. Imo, don't overdo it to other ppls cars. They get what they pay for. Wash, clay, polish(paint cleaner), and wax is all that is needed. Any defects as mentioned above should be extra.



Just some advice for ya.







Aaron
Click to expand...



Thanks for the feedback. BTW, I have not promised I'd remove all swirls so far (and don't intend to).



Lemme ask another question... Breaking this down to a smaller piece of the pie, How long would you allow for a single polishing pass on a standard sized car with say, DACP?
 
tpgsr said:
I would generally take about 6-7 hours for a full detail on a MDX, but sometimes you can just be a little tired, or a little un organized, and that costs you a couple hours.



I generally answer your question with: Whatever it takes. Just do the job, do it right, and in time you will find that your speed picks up!
Click to expand...



Thanks! Sounds like I need some experience! :)
 
Here's a time saving tip for ya... if you're detailing a vehicle that has paintwork in good-to-excellent condition, after washing and claying, use Megs Speed Glaze follow by your LSP. I see you were using NXT, using that on top of Speed Glaze would give you excellent results! You'll be sat at home with a beer in your hand before you know it! :D
 
pugoman said:
Here's a time saving tip for ya... if you're detailing a vehicle that has paintwork in good-to-excellent condition, after washing and claying, use Megs Speed Glaze follow by your LSP. I see you were using NXT, using that on top of Speed Glaze would give you excellent results! You'll be sat at home with a beer in your hand before you know it! :D
Click to expand...



Thanks for your response.



So far, the polishes I've used are DACP for paint that is more swirled and/or scratched and #9 (Megs Swirl Remover #2) for paint in pretty good condition. I've also used (in the past) Meg's Deep Crystal System Polish (#2 in the three stage consumer system). Since the pain in this case was in pretty good shape, what are the advantages of using #80 (MSG) as you suggest over #9?
 
I find that the DACP/SR2 combo works great but it definately takes time. DACP takes awhile to break down and then you have to follow up with the SR2. To me, this is a great combination if you're being paid to detail a vehicle with a fair amount of swirls and marring. Using Speed Glaze to me is for vehicles in better condition but still require a good polishing. Speed Glaze breaks down really quick and is great in that you don't need to follow up with something lighter like SR2. So instead of 2 steps for all vehicles, you could be done in 1 ; D
 
ncal said:
I find that the DACP/SR2 combo works great but it definately takes time. DACP takes awhile to break down and then you have to follow up with the SR2. To me, this is a great combination if you're being paid to detail a vehicle with a fair amount of swirls and marring. Using Speed Glaze to me is for vehicles in better condition but still require a good polishing. Speed Glaze breaks down really quick and is great in that you don't need to follow up with something lighter like SR2. So instead of 2 steps for all vehicles, you could be done in 1 ; D
Click to expand...



Good! You convinced me. I'll get some! :)
 
lflorack said:
H2! You must be tired! What did you do to it?
Click to expand...



Full Detail included:



Rotary work , compound roof and hood with PG , polish entire truck with IP.



PC Work , polish entire truck with FP and then FTG.



Applied FMJ by hand.





The wheel wells where sprayed with salty sand since the truck is used on the beach often , so they had to be scrubed and dressed , 315/70/17 tires where scrubed and chrome rims polished by hand.



Interior was very sandy 1.5 hrs of just vacuuming. Dirty tan leather cleaned and scrubed.



Engine cleaned as per customers request.





All this work and it was too dark to get pictures , so I'll have to get them on Monday. Alot of hard work but I was paid well.



This is the the thrid H2 in just as many weeks , but the others where in good shape and they were white , yellow and red/orange. Next week I have a 2005 Black H2 SUT to do so after that I've meet my Hummer quota for the month no make that the year!
 
detailbarn said:
Full Detail included:



Rotary work , compound roof and hood with PG , polish entire truck with IP.



PC Work , polish entire truck with FP and then FTG.



Applied FMJ by hand.





The wheel wells where sprayed with salty sand since the truck is used on the beach often , so they had to be scrubed and dressed , 315/70/17 tires where scrubed and chrome rims polished by hand.



Interior was very sandy 1.5 hrs of just vacuuming. Dirty tan leather cleaned and scrubed.



Engine cleaned as per customers request.

Click to expand...



You did well to get that all done in 11 hours Looking forward to the pictures.
 
pugoman said:
Here's a time saving tip for ya... if you're detailing a vehicle that has paintwork in good-to-excellent condition, after washing and claying, use Megs Speed Glaze follow by your LSP. I see you were using NXT, using that on top of Speed Glaze would give you excellent results! You'll be sat at home with a beer in your hand before you know it! :D
Click to expand...



Agreed. You can often get 3 step results in just 2 using #80 and a good LSP. I've been using NXT or Poorboy's EX w/carnauba this way and am getting excellent results.



I clay as I wash which saves time.



Normally, I can knock out an MDX in decent condition in 5-6 hours, sometimes a bit less if the interior is in good shape.
 
Scottwax said:
Agreed. You can often get 3 step results in just 2 using #80 and a good LSP. I've been using NXT or Poorboy's EX w/carnauba this way and am getting excellent results.



I clay as I wash which saves time.



Normally, I can knock out an MDX in decent condition in 5-6 hours, sometimes a bit less if the interior is in good shape.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the comments. After I got done, I realized I could have just used AIO/NXT without the #9 first because the paint was in pretty good shape. At the time however, I was concerned that AIO wasn't a strong enough polish on it's own (never used it before). Next time, I'll save the time for the extra step when the paint condition is good.
 
You'll get quicker as you work over time. You will find more efficient ways to do everything.



My partner and I used to take 4-5 hours on a Durango (for instance) with no swirl removal. I can now do a Durango doing the same job in 4 hours, give or take a little.



Swirl removal tacks on another hour or more depending on severity. I work with a rotary polisher and I have spent 5 hours just polishing on just an exterior of a Black Acura CL. It was absolutely shot to hell, but you have to get the job done right.



Scottwax is right, using a good LSP after polishing cuts down some time too. For instance, NXT, EX, EX-P.
 
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