How do I use 3M Perfect-it II Rubbing Compound?
- Thread starter Bimmer25
- Start date
Personally I would shy away from a product you haven't used before on black.
I'm not familiar with the 3M line but it's obviously a compound and sounds aggressive. I would first use a product you are familiar with... or at least try something less agressive first like a light polish.
And then if that doesn't tackle the problem step up your pad selection. And if that doesn't do it THEN move to your compound.
But again I'm not familiar with the 3M line sorry
I'm not familiar with the 3M line but it's obviously a compound and sounds aggressive. I would first use a product you are familiar with... or at least try something less agressive first like a light polish.
And then if that doesn't tackle the problem step up your pad selection. And if that doesn't do it THEN move to your compound.
But again I'm not familiar with the 3M line sorry
imported_Totoland Mach
New member
I use it all the time with a rotary and a wool pad. I don't think the pc will generate enough heat for the 3M to be effective. Maybe others can chime in on this.
For an effective combo with a pc: Meguiar's #83 and a polish pad works well on black Bimmers....I've done quite a few of them that way until I started working in a shop environment with a rotary.
Hope that helps
For an effective combo with a pc: Meguiar's #83 and a polish pad works well on black Bimmers....I've done quite a few of them that way until I started working in a shop environment with a rotary.
Hope that helps
Accumulator
Well-known member
I'm assuming we're talking about the PI-II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound.
Wear a mask, that stuff contains silica and will kill you just like asbestos.
It works fine by PC/Cyclo/hand. Has a little more cut than PI-III 05933, doesn't finish out quite as nicely but isn't bad. Will need at least one milder follow-up.
Try with a polishing pad unless the marring is severe. Works OK with a cutting pad but I'd
do only the initial passes that way then switch to the polishing pad.
4" pads work *MUCH* better with this than larger ones (by PC).
IMO this is a pretty mild product despite its scary name...I've used it on paints ranging from very soft lacquer to very hard b/c, by hand/PC/Cyclo/rotary, with no problems. But note that some recent-vintage black BMWs have *VERY* soft clear so be prepared for that if the car's a newer one.
And I'm not foolin' about wearing the proper mask, and I'm not one to get all paranoid about stuff like that by a long shot.
Totoland Mach- Give it a try by hand some time (maybe one of those out-of-the-way spots where a machine won't fit); I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Heh heh, not too often I get to suggest something to *you*
Wear a mask, that stuff contains silica and will kill you just like asbestos.
It works fine by PC/Cyclo/hand. Has a little more cut than PI-III 05933, doesn't finish out quite as nicely but isn't bad. Will need at least one milder follow-up.
Try with a polishing pad unless the marring is severe. Works OK with a cutting pad but I'd
do only the initial passes that way then switch to the polishing pad.
4" pads work *MUCH* better with this than larger ones (by PC).
IMO this is a pretty mild product despite its scary name...I've used it on paints ranging from very soft lacquer to very hard b/c, by hand/PC/Cyclo/rotary, with no problems. But note that some recent-vintage black BMWs have *VERY* soft clear so be prepared for that if the car's a newer one.
And I'm not foolin' about wearing the proper mask, and I'm not one to get all paranoid about stuff like that by a long shot.
Totoland Mach- Give it a try by hand some time (maybe one of those out-of-the-way spots where a machine won't fit); I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Heh heh, not too often I get to suggest something to *you*
SVTContour
New member
Used it on my dark blue Honda Odyssey to remove swirls and 2000 grit wetsanding marks, using the PC on 5 with a cutting pad. Followed with Sonus SFX-2 with a polishing pad. Worked great! Tons o' dust though, wear a mask as has been recommended.
Changeling
New member
Imatk, you took the words right out of my mouth!
Plus, 3m PIII 05933 and PIII 05937
Accumulator I hope you have an answer to this.
Change
Plus, 3m PIII 05933 and PIII 05937
Accumulator I hope you have an answer to this.
Change
Accumulator said:
Two weekends ago I worked with Menzerna that was dusting. My sinuses quickly afterwards reminded me I made a very dumb mistake by being on auto-pilot and not practicing what I preach (about masks) because I forgot them at home. Moment I got home first thing I did is go for my box with masks and put them together with polishes. That way I will not forget them next time.
BTW, which masks you advise to get? Right now I am using just 3M paper ones. Should I step up?
Accumulator
Well-known member
AFAIK the PI-III line doesn't have the silica-based dust issues. The PI-II FCRC has a warning on the label and none of the other abrasives I use have that...yeah, that means I'm just *assuming* they're OK...take that for what it's worth :nixweiss
I dunno which mask you oughta use, but it's gotta be "better" than a regular dust mask...something like a cartridge-style respirator. I used a disposable 3M vapor-safe mask that I already had on hand for use with stuff like POR-15/Rust Encapsulator. And I quit using the PI-II FCRC in favor of the PI-III RC 05933 anyhow. I know the PI-II is easier to find, but still...
Heh heh, the whole "breathing abrasive dust mixed with autopaint dust" issue makes me glad I don't do much paint correction though
I dunno which mask you oughta use, but it's gotta be "better" than a regular dust mask...something like a cartridge-style respirator. I used a disposable 3M vapor-safe mask that I already had on hand for use with stuff like POR-15/Rust Encapsulator. And I quit using the PI-II FCRC in favor of the PI-III RC 05933 anyhow. I know the PI-II is easier to find, but still...
Heh heh, the whole "breathing abrasive dust mixed with autopaint dust" issue makes me glad I don't do much paint correction though