How bad is the cowebbing?

R

Rover06

New member
Newbie,



I've attached some pictures of my SUV, the rear qtr panel , back passenger door and front passenger door. You can see quite I bit of difference between the 2 doors. I applied 3 applications of ScratchX by hand, divided door up in 6 areas, 4hrs, however still not good enough. Can I achieve 95% correction with a PC. Done a tone of reseach and will be placing order in the next day. Here's the plan.



SUV has already been clayed using Clay Magic (originally tried Meg's, Clay Magic wins out)



Polishing Products

1. PC 7424 with Edge 2k pad kit (Aggressive to Light : Yellow, Orange,Green, Blue,White)

2. Meneranza FPII and PoorBoys SSR 2.5

3. Top with RMG and S100 Wax (ie. same as P21S but 1/2 the price.)



Preperation

1. Watch videos.

2. Practice I another car or panel before attempting my own.



Plan of attach

Start out with blue pad & FPII

if more correction needed move to SSR2.5 & then to Green pad.

move back down to blue pad & FPII for final polishing.



Here's my question.



1. Can I achive 95% correction?



2. Will I need to go with something stronger then PoorBoys SSR2.5 and Green Pad(LightCut)?



3. If I do need to go with something stronger do I step up the pad to Orange(MedCut) or move up the polish to OC.



4. All the threads regarding PC's say they are fool proof. But we know that can't be true. What damage could I do.



Any other helpful tips would be appreciated!
 

Attachments

It's pretty bad but correctable via PC.



OC/Yellow

SSR2.5/Orange

FPII/Blue

RMG/white

S100



You don't need to worry about doing any damage - unless you run the PC without a pad on the paint :).
 
screw that...I would jump straight to something like powergloss, or extreme cut and a cutting pad....you are going to be there all day with a PC trying to get it out with just OC....its pretty bad marring....



my process would be something like this....



PG or EC on a cutting pad

IP or 83 or OC on a light cut pad

FPII or 80 on a polishing pad

glaze to fill in the rest

carnuba time
 
toyotaguy said:
screw that...
Click to expand...
:(



The process of themightytimmah looks right to me.



IMO it's allways best to begin with the least aggressif approach. If OC doesn't work step up to OHC.



Try your process first on one section 2 x 2 inch.

General rule :

First the least aggressif polish (OC) with a medium cutting (orange) pad.

Second the OC with a cutting (yellow) pad.

Third a more aggressif polish (OHC) with a medium cutting (orange) pad.

Fourth the OHC with a cutting (yellow) pad.



Determine on that section the least aggressif approach that gives you the desired result and apply that on the whole car.



Finish the the proces as mention by themightytimmah :

SSR2.5/Orange

FPII/Blue

RMG/white

S100



It's difficult to recommend the best polish as I don't know how hard the clearcoat is.



Hope this helps.



Don't be afraid with the PC, it's fool proof.:buffing:
 
Rover06- Welcome to Autopia!



I dunno if I can offer anything helpful as a) I don't know from Rover clear, b) I don't use PoorBoy's products or Edge pads...that said:



Don't expect the FPII to do much of any real correction, get things very nice before you switch to that product.



Having looked at the pics, I think it's gonna take some real work.



Don't be surprised if you have to get a lot more aggressive than you expect. I would expect to have to go with toyotaguy's suggestion, and I'd probably also expect to have to switch to 4" pads (which allow you to get much more aggressive). It's certainly smart to start with a less-aggressive approach while you're getting a feel for this stuff, but IMO most people underestimate how tough paint correction via PC really is.



Good luck with it, hope it goes well.
 
Generally,I agree it is always a good practice to start with the least aggressive approach and move up if necessary. That being said, based on the photos I would estimate starting with the blue Edge pad and FPII would be an act of futility against that marring. Just my $.02, your results may vary from mine. Also, I am not sure about the hardness of the paint either.



Personally, I would jump right to a light cutting pad and SSR2.5 (based on your list of products) and I would expect it might take a few passes with the PC at that. And don't be afraid to bump up the speed on your PC to get our marring like that. You can bump up to a more agressive pad with the SSR2.5 if needed. That's just me again.



I happen to agree with Accumulator and how most people understimate how much work is needed to remove serious marring with a PC.



Good luck. I'm betting it will look 100% better after correction.
 
Wow! Was that truck dried with sandpaper? That's pretty bad and will def need something stronger than you listed. DACP/yellow, SSR3/org or yellow, oc/ohc/yellow/org
 
I bought the car out of LA, CA. I think the original owner thought he owned a Jeep (not a $80 Range Rover HSE) and drove in on the beach. So the verdict seems like I'm going to have to hit it with a strong compond and work it alot with the PC. No one commented on the last picture which was the results of using ScrachX by hand on the front passenger door. I've included 3 urls to full size of the pictures.



So the bottom line is: Can a PC in the hands of a Newbie remove heavy scatches out of fairly expensive black car OR is the PC only good for removing light scratches, apply glazes and waxes. I guess will we find out.



2001915017342948003_rs.jpg


2000273526896491147_rs.jpg


2000256787847089818_rs.jpg
 
I haven't had any experience with a Range Rover, that said I have been able to correct every car that has come across my path with a PC and the right combination of products. Don't underestimate the effectiveness of this tool. The cost of the car has nothing to do with the hardness or softness of the paint.



Your best advice would be to search through the click and brag for a thread where someone worked on the same type of car that you have and then taking their process and products into consideration when working on your car.



Good luck.
 
Use the picture icon to make the photos visible directly in the post. Easier to look at.



2001915017342948003_rs.jpg


2000273526896491147_rs.jpg


2000256787847089818_rs.jpg




I'd be tempted to get a cheap rotary for the first pass, but IP with PC may work.



Do post photos of your results!
 
itb76 thnks for getting the pics in. They are huge. Maybe I'll repost so they fit without scrolling. I see now, the toolbar above the editor has an option to insert a URl to an image.



By the way your the only one that doesn't seem like I might not have to go to the extreme to correct the vechicle. Based off the feedback here's my product lineup



FPII

SSR2.5

OC



Since its my car I don't care if it take 5hrs. per panel using the PC vs Rotary. I'm not in the detail bussiness and being a newbie I'm not going to attempt the correction using a Rotary.



I guess if all fails I will go to Menerza PowerGloss but this seems a little strong for the PC. I did find a link where member 01bwecls detailed an 06 RR with similiar condition (he had before pics and after) he used the following technique.



Polish w/ Menzerna power gloss orange lc pad via rotary at 1600rpm

- Polish Menzerna IP white lc pad via rotary 1200rpm

- Polish Menzerna FP white lc pad via pc at speed 5
 
I guess the only reason I suggested the rotary was that I'm not always a very patient person. I went crazy tyring to polish wet sanding scratches out of my race car last summer, so I got a rotary and it went much faster. I have never used it on my street cars, and yes there is the very real danger of burning the paint. The Rover is probably not what you want to practice on with a rotary.



Sounds like you have the patience. Start with the IP, and if that's not aggressive enough you could then move to PG.
 
Rover06 said:
Since its my car I don't care if it take 5hrs. per panel using the PC vs Rotary..I guess if all fails I will go to Menerza PowerGloss but this seems a little strong for the PC...
Click to expand...



If you're willing to put in *literally* five hours per panel you oughta be able to get some pretty good results, but it really can take that long via PC.



Remember my advice regarding the 4" pads...if you want to use very aggressive products you'll do better with them (as opposed to larger pads) anyhow as they'll help you break down the abrasives. I'd absolutely switch to the smaller pads if you don't get the results you're after with the larger ones. *Then* consider some really aggressive products if you need them.



Oh, and I wouldn't extrapolate from what somebody did with a rotary. It's impossible to translate rotary work to PC work, they're simply too different.
 
I woudn't want to touch that without a rotary either. I'd suggest contacting a local autopian or pro that can clean it up for you with a rotary, and maybe give you a quick lesson on how to use your new pc to maintain the finish over the life of the vehicle. That said, since it sounds like you're going PC, and if you want to do it yourself, I have a feeling also you'll need the strongest compound/pad combo you can get, and would agree to skip starting with the light stuff after seeing the pics. It's gonna be a pain in the butt with a pc, and take a long time, but will certainly deliver a huge improvement.
 
Thanks for all the replies. This is helpful to know what I'm up against. I'll keep you posted and keep notes on the time it took, the steps, passes and polishes used. And yes the after pics. Maybe then I can sleep without thinking about all those scratches...
 
The after pics are in. Just search on Rover06. I have a post titled Before and After pics. I'm still working on it to perfect it.
 
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