Hmm... micromarring/holograms from SSR1, what did I do wrong? :)

kaos

kaos

6-Speeder
I got some time today to start a little on the detail on my new black '06 Accord coupe. Washed and clayed, then hit it with SSR1 on a blue Edge polishing pad (PC), figuring that should be plenty sufficient to take out the few dealer-induced swirls. (And yes, I made sure they didn't wash it, these were induced before I got there, hehe)

After putting the car back out in the sunlight, I actually seem to have some very light hologramming or micro-marring. It's not very noticeable by any means, but when you get to just the right angle, it's definitely there. When I opened the hood and got it angled up toward the sun, I could literally see all the last passes that I made with the PC, and in which direction they went.

I'm wondering, A) did I do anything wrong, and B) what to use to correct it.

Could it be that I worked the SSR1 too long, and it started to dry up? Or that I didn't work it long enough? Some spots were a little hard to take off, so I'm leaning towards the possiblity that I worked it too long and it started to dry up. But I'd usually only do about 5 or 6 complete passes over the area that I was working, speed 4-5'ish, before it seemed to take on that translucent look that tells you it's broken down.

As far as what to use to correct it... Do I go to SSR1 on an finishing pad? Or would PPP on a polishing pad do any good, since it's really not abrasive at all?

Suggestions welcome. :)
 
I'm just taking a stab, but it sounds like you might have worked the prodcut too long and the pad, without sufficient lubrication, may have left the marring. Your idea with the Pro Polish sounds good, as does going back over the area with SSR1.
 
hmmmmmmm a couple of thoughts come to mind ...could be too little or too much product...if too little the dry pad would be leaving the marks, but if it was too much and not worked long enough a damp cloth or a spritz of a QD with a dry mf...should remove them. Also using a finishing pad has proven to be a better way to use SSR1 especially if you are not trying to remove haze left by a stronger product :)
 
Poorboy said:
hmmmmmmm a couple of thoughts come to mind ...could be too little or too much product...if too little the dry pad would be leaving the marks, but if it was too much and not worked long enough a damp cloth or a spritz of a QD with a dry mf...should remove them. Also using a finishing pad has proven to be a better way to use SSR1 especially if you are not trying to remove haze left by a stronger product :)
Click to expand...

That was my first thought is not enough product. Was the area that you had the halogramming the very first panel you worked? If so that may have been the casue. With any product i use for the very fisrt panel i like to give the pad a light misting of QD just so it isnt dry.

Richard
 
Do you have PB Pro Polish?

It may "feel" harder to work than SSR1, but the results seem to speak for themselves...

DSC05835.jpg


DSC05837.jpg


"After a group effort with clay, wetsanding (2000, then 3000), Poorboy's Pro Polish with the wool pad on the rotary at 1700-1900 rpm x 2 , Poorboy's Pro Polish with the final finising pad via rotary at 1200-1500 rpm x 2, PwC Blue by hand, Natty's Blue by hand spit shined with Spray and Gloss. It could've used another pass with the polish as there was some spot marring here and there but I think our group effort showed what could be done with bad paint."
 
97F1504x4 said:
That was my first thought is not enough product. Was the area that you had the halogramming the very first panel you worked? If so that may have been the casue. With any product i use for the very fisrt panel i like to give the pad a light misting of QD just so it isnt dry.

Richard
Click to expand...


Same here keep the pad moist and also free of to much product its a fine line....The SSR1 is a go to product for removing swirls for me and I have never had any problems with marrying with it.
 
sometime too much product will give the appearance of holograms when it's actually left over product and the solvents that were not fully worked or wiped off...
 
GSRstilez said:
Do you have PB Pro Polish?

It may "feel" harder to work than SSR1, but the results seem to speak for themselves...

DSC05835.jpg


DSC05837.jpg


"After a group effort with clay, wetsanding (2000, then 3000), Poorboy's Pro Polish with the wool pad on the rotary at 1700-1900 rpm x 2 , Poorboy's Pro Polish with the final finising pad via rotary at 1200-1500 rpm x 2, PwC Blue by hand, Natty's Blue by hand spit shined with Spray and Gloss. It could've used another pass with the polish as there was some spot marring here and there but I think our group effort showed what could be done with bad paint."
Click to expand...


NICE SHOES>>>:howdy
 
Ok, sounds like I've got some good things to try today. On a couple of panels, it was kinda hard to remove the product, even though I remove it immediately after turning off the PC. That's why I'm leaning toward probably working it too long/too little product. Thanks for the tip on using some QD to help remove it, I'll give that a shot, and perhaps try an alcohol/water mix if that doesn't work, just to make sure it's not actually leftover product. If it is actually hologrammed, then I'll try going over it with some Pro Polish and see if that takes it out. It is very, very light, and can only be seen in bright sunlight at just the right angle, so if it is in fact hologrammed, it should come out fairly easy.

I was following the guidance given by Poorboy in another thread with pix of how much SSR to use, basically one circle around the pad for each panel. So I have a feeling it's actually a matter of working it too long, and having it dry out a bit. Just out of curiosity, how long do you usually work the product before you consider it to be fully broken down? I know what it should look like, but how long does that usually take? I usually spread the product on speed 3, then turn it up to 4-5 to work it. In about 2-3 passes over the panel, it has the translucent look, and another 1-2 passes it nearly disappears, which, from what I've read, is the point to stop. And that still doesn't seem like very long.

Of course, I don't have a lot of experience with SSR1 on new paint, for the last couple years that I've been here at DC, I've been trying to get all the swirls out of my 90k mile truck, mostly with DACP. :)

Thanks for the advice. :)
 
kaos said:
Ok, sounds like I've got some good things to try today. On a couple of panels, it was kinda hard to remove the product, even though I remove it immediately after turning off the PC. That's why I'm leaning toward probably working it too long/too little product. Thanks for the tip on using some QD to help remove it, I'll give that a shot, and perhaps try an alcohol/water mix if that doesn't work, just to make sure it's not actually leftover product. If it is actually hologrammed, then I'll try going over it with some Pro Polish and see if that takes it out. It is very, very light, and can only be seen in bright sunlight at just the right angle, so if it is in fact hologrammed, it should come out fairly easy.

I was following the guidance given by Poorboy in another thread with pix of how much SSR to use, basically one circle around the pad for each panel. So I have a feeling it's actually a matter of working it too long, and having it dry out a bit. Just out of curiosity, how long do you usually work the product before you consider it to be fully broken down? I know what it should look like, but how long does that usually take? I usually spread the product on speed 3, then turn it up to 4-5 to work it. In about 2-3 passes over the panel, it has the translucent look, and another 1-2 passes it nearly disappears, which, from what I've read, is the point to stop. And that still doesn't seem like very long.

Of course, I don't have a lot of experience with SSR1 on new paint, for the last couple years that I've been here at DC, I've been trying to get all the swirls out of my 90k mile truck, mostly with DACP. :)

Thanks for the advice. :)
Click to expand...

There's not set # of passes or elapsed time to determine when a polish has broken down. It depends on the air temp, surface temp, what type of pad/machine you are using, etc... (i.e. lots of variables). At the end of the day, you need to spend time with the polish, and your experience will determine when it has broken down.

The top things to focus on are:
1) Keep the pad flat.

2) Make slow overlapping passes -take your time. If you are moving the PC around freely in an uncontrolled fashion, you can induce marring. Check your work in the sun early on to see if you've found the 'sweet spot' or if you need to make an adjustment.

3) Most paint (unless severely neglected), you can get by using a polishing and finishing pad.

4) Most polishes work well via the PC at speeds of 4.5-5.5 <-- for the most part, stay in this speed range.

Do a search on 'blkyukon' He has a post & pictures that shows SSR2.5 breaking down. That may help you.
 
Yeah, I read blkyukon's threads a while back, that was very, very helpful. It seemed though like he said that he got a couple passes in between each photo, whereas I seem to go from 'evenly spread' to done in only 3 or 4 passes.

Anyway, went and got out the trusty S&W, and it turns out that it was, in fact, leftover product on the surface. I did, however, notice that there are still some swirls left, so she'll need another full round of polishing anyway. :)

Going to try stopping sooner this round.
 
I would also suggest you get yourself one of these brushes. I use it when i see the pad is begining to load up and simply drag it across the surface of the pad to dislodge caked on product. I then blow off the residue with my air hose and then give a light misting agian with QD.

http://www.autogeek.net/padtool.html

Richard
 
Gah! I knew there was something else I forgot on that last order. :)

I do have a small interior brush that I use for the same purpose. I've found, though, that when I try to use it with the PC running, all it does is stop the pad from spinning, and put it into a stationary random-orbit pattern, and it just drags the brush with it in one spot.

For some reason, even stopping significantly sooner than I think I should, the SSR1 is just being very difficult to remove. I also seem to keep needing to moisten the pad with QD, something I don't usually need to do with PB's products. Perhaps this particular bottle of SSR1 was adversely affected by being left in the garage this winter. Strange though, that my SSR2, which I used on the truck before I traded it, was perfectly normal. *shrug* Guess I'll just finish polishing, and QD the whole car before a coat of EX-P.
 
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