Hi Temp Prodcut line...

rydawg said:
Well I only tested it on one car with some major defects and I did do a comparison side by side. Note: It was a badly hammered car. I tested on my Hitachi rotory with a cutting foam and a cutting wool. Sorry no pics!



Ultra cutting creme regular(not the light)- designed for wool pads, but works well with foam.

I only reccomend it for pro's and use caution as it is very abrasive. It removed defects fast and on this car I needed to hit it twice cause it was in very bad shape. Foam pad worked very good at 1100 to 1500 rpm. On wool it worked really well at 1500 to 2000 rpm.

Had some dust that washed off easy.



HTEC- designed for foam cutting pads

I got this sample from a great member here and I am not sure if it had OP added, so I did not add anything.

Has a perfect balance of smaller grit and chemical cleaner in it that works very well. It worked much longer but it took it's time and did it's job perfect with no spatter or dust and clean up was easy.

On a foam cutting pad at 1100-1500 rpm it worked well and removed the defects. It however did take longer but that was ok and is much safer to work with.

Now on wool, I used a little bit and it had a little tough time and gummed up a bit. I was not giving up till I could figure a way it could work on wool. After trying many techniques, the best results I got was, on clean wool pad use a little bit, use only at 1000-1200 rpm max and no more. At this slow speed it performed very well and took out the defects and left a very deep gloss. I would say this procedure is safe at such a low rpm with such great results. The wool out performed the foam and at a lower rpm and the gloss was DEEP! Oh ya...very little marring. I am glad I spent time and found the learning curve! Clean up was very easy and nothing in the cracks. Note: on wool do not exceed more than 1100 rpm or it will skip and hop. Spur the pad as needed and us QD to break the polish down and will work perfect for wool pads.



The end result...

Both did an excellent job. The ultra regular left a clearer finish and EC had a more cloudy look maybe due to the Kayolin clay or something, but 106ff took care of that and both need a finish polish anyway. After hitting both with a finish polish, they both looked flawless and could not tell the difference.



I would recomend EC to everyone who details and it was a very nice product and safer to use. For the price it is very cheap and well worth it and it works.

It does not feel gritty for such a heavy duty contender, but that is good.



I will be adding HT-EC to my nice collection of best products that I have collected over the years. :2thumbs:



I hope this helps you and most!
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Very appreciated comments. I'm going to write to Top of the line to check how much will be shipping 1-2 bottles of HTEC ;)

Thanks Ryan !!
 
rydawg- Thanks for posting that, I found your review of the H-T EC interesting as you know your stuff but were new to that product. Especially interesting that you found it had a long work time (I'll bet it was *not* mixed with OP, just a guess though), which probably reflects on what you're used to with other products.



Sounds like most *everyone* likes H-T EC...only thing that still has me :think: is why it seems so mild to me and why it takes a zillion hard passes to correct my M3 :nixweiss
 
Well, I have only worked on one BMW, an 02 325, white with bad scratches. I didn't have a rotary at that time, so I used Meg's 84 on a wool pad via PC. TOOK FOREVER!! But they came out. Must be some damn hard clear on those cars.
 
Accumulator,



What's the model year on the M3? A friend of mine has a '95, and apparently, the mid-90's BMW's had some *hard* clear. I was using a relatively aggressive polish (can't recall which at the moment, I tried a lot of them on that car), and finally resorted to the rotary. Damn paint just giggled at me. With a German accent.



I never did get that car looking how I wanted it to. I'm still a relative n00b with a rotary, and didn't want to get too aggressive and screw something up. However, "Tort vs. '95 BMW: The Rematch" is scheduled for later this spring.



Tort
 
I tried out the Hi-Temp Extreme Cut in my search for something more aggressive than Optimum Hyper Compound. Aside from the cutting power, I didn't like the other properties of this compound. I then mixed it 40% Extreme Cut and 60% Hyper Compound, and found it more aggressive than the HC with much better working properties including less dusting and great working time. It didn't finish as well as Hyper Compound but I'm usually following up with atleast 2 stages of polishing anyway. Here's a 14 hour detail from hell on an 04 Dodge Dakota farm truck with almost 200,000 KMs.

Oh yeah, I used it with my rotary, probably speed 4 here (1800 rpms?). I've used it up to about 2200 RPMs but it gets kind of dangerous at that point and stops being fun :laugh:



dakota2.jpg


dakota5.jpg




Yes yes I missed half the mud flap I know. :D
 
Reflections said:
I tried out the Hi-Temp Extreme Cut in my search for something more aggressive than Optimum Hyper Compound. Aside from the cutting power, I didn't like the other properties of this compound. I then mixed it 40% Extreme Cut and 60% Hyper Compound, and found it more aggressive than the HC with much better working properties including less dusting and great working time. It didn't finish as well as Hyper Compound but I'm usually following up with atleast 2 stages of polishing anyway. Here's a 14 hour detail from hell on an 04 Dodge Dakota farm truck with almost 200,000 KMs.

Oh yeah, I used it with my rotary, probably speed 4 here (1800 rpms?). I've used it up to about 2200 RPMs but it gets kind of dangerous at that point and stops being fun :laugh:



dakota2.jpg


dakota5.jpg




Yes yes I missed half the mud flap I know. :D
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Incredible results :buffing: :clap:
 
Maesal- Wow, that came out nice! That's an interesting mix you used.



Tort- My M3 is a '97. I'm not too worried about overdoing it as I plan to get it painted if I keep it for long, but I'm just rotarying it death with the H-T EC/cutting pads. I didn't think it looked bad at all, but my favorite painter saw it and suggested I wetsand it with 1500 (!) if that tells you anything. I told *him* he was crazy to suggest that but now...well, :nixweiss Now he's teasing me for correcting paint he assumes he'll be taking off anyhow, and saying that I oughta at least get some wool pads if I insist on doing it.
 
I just got off the phone with Hi-Temp. I dialed the 800 number and the phone was answered after only a few rings by a real person. I asked him about the levelers and the whole chemical abrasive thing. He said they all have actual abrasives that are "beaded", which means they are rounded like a marble. He would not go into what the abrasives were, but said they were pretty standard in the industry. He said that the LC and MC are solvent based. The solvents actually soften the paint and allow the abrasives to work. This allows you to operate the polish at a lower RPM. The HC and EC are water based, and require more heat to work properly. He recommend higher RPM's for the HC and EC or slower passes. He said the LC and MC would work better with an orbital because the solvents are softening the paint. The HC and EC would not work as well because there is not enough heat with an orbital. The recommended RPM's were 1200-1500 for the LC and MC and 1700 for the HC and EC. I little higher than I wanted to hear. I have had some issues with the LC flashing fast with the rotary. He said a light spritz of water on the pad should imporve working time. I hope this info helps everyone. Accumulator, you were correct about the whole chemical abrasive thing. I guess it just proves you can not listen to everything you hear, especially on the internet.
 
I mix the HTEC and OHC together and find it to be a great compromise for cut and working time by rotary. I've only used it with a foam cutting pad. I really think that a wool pad is more effective for etching and scratching.
 
wannafbody said:
I mix the HTEC and OHC together and find it to be a great compromise for cut and working time by rotary. I've only used it with a foam cutting pad. I really think that a wool pad is more effective for etching and scratching.
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I've never actually tried a wool pad before, but I'd like to. Any recommendations/suggestions anyone?
 
brwill2005 said:
I just got off the phone with Hi-Temp....[lots of good straight-from-the-source info].... I hope this info helps everyone.... I guess it just proves you can not listen to everything you hear, especially on the internet.
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Heh heh, yeah, gotta apply critical thinking to everything, and that sure includes whatever *I* post!



Other than the part about the solvents softening the paint (that's news to me), everything they told you sounds like what I've always believed about their products. Props to you for getting the straight scoop :xyxthumbs
 
Reflections said:
I've never actually tried a wool pad before, but I'd like to. Any recommendations/suggestions anyone?
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I used a Makita wool pad from Lowes. I'd suggest a medium polish and a low 1000-1200 rpm range. Keep the pad moist with polish and shedding isn't much of an issue. If it gets dry it will shed. Follow up with a foam cutting pad and compound and then finish with softer pads and polishes as needed.
 
TortoiseAWD said:
Accumulator,



What's the model year on the M3? A friend of mine has a '95, and apparently, the mid-90's BMW's had some *hard* clear. I was using a relatively aggressive polish (can't recall which at the moment, I tried a lot of them on that car), and finally resorted to the rotary. Damn paint just giggled at me. With a German accent.



I never did get that car looking how I wanted it to. I'm still a relative n00b with a rotary, and didn't want to get too aggressive and screw something up. However, "Tort vs. '95 BMW: The Rematch" is scheduled for later this spring.



Tort
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Tort and Accumulator,



Bret and I detailed this Silver E36 M3 Both of us using a rotary. I was using EC/OP yellow CCS and he was using OHC/yellow. I think I did 3 passes on some sections of the hood just to get 60-70% defect removal. Some of the defects where pretty deep, but yes that CC is very hard.
 
gmblack3a said:
Tort and Accumulator,



Bret and I ... did 3 passes on some sections of the hood just to get 60-70% defect removal. Some of the defects where pretty deep, but yes that CC is very hard.
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OK, thanks for posting that, I feel a little less alone in the wilderness now :D I sure am cutting off the clear though...makes me wonder about long-term issues but I just can't stand it the way it is now.
 
By mixing EC with OHC or OP some cut is sacrificed to increase working time and or reduce dusting. Why not simply try the EC by itself? M3 clear is hard as a rock though; that is a fact.
 
Reflections said:
I've never actually tried a wool pad before, but I'd like to. Any recommendations/suggestions anyone?
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I would suggest the natural lambs wool pad from autoint.com. Finished down real nice. They also carry cutting wool pads for compounding.
 
Picus said:
I did an S2K today with HT HC on an orange, 1600rmp - I'll post pics in a bit, results were pretty awesome. Even I was impressed.
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You should be..That came out flawless! I was impressed with the photos and it takes a lot to impress me.
 
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