Hey im new to this forum and i was reading around trying to figure out some new stuff to use on my car... and wow did i get confused quick. So hopefulyl someone can help me. I have a 97 ford mustang Lazer Red. The car came from a rich kid, so since it was bought it may have only been waxed once or twice. So the paint is faded pretty good. I was curious what would be the best line of products for me to use on this car. I have mostly been sticking with meguiars products since ive had the car. Using scratch x, quik clay, color x, gold class, nxt, just to name a few. I have got pretty good results with these, cosidering the car didn't even shine when we got it, and was full of scrathes, i now have all the srathes down to very very minimal. But my biggest problem seems to be the fading, and there is a great deal of orange peel in my paint also. Ill post a few pics up so u can see what im talking about. The first one is a shot of the hood, with a section cut out so you can see the orange peel.
Hey Guys, Can you help me out here?
- Thread starter Lynx331
- Start date
heres one more, if you need a picture of something let me kno and i can go take it with my digital camera. Thanks in advance for your help guys. Cuz i have no clue where to begin with this EX and wolfgangs etc. Cna you direct me to a good set a products that could get me the best look possible from my paint, and also good protection too?
Last edited:
Nickc0844
Owner and Tech. Rep
Hey Lynx,
I would be one to suggest the Poorboy's products. I have seen the problems with Red (specifically Ford) myself, and have gotten great results with them. I also have the Wolfgang collection, but I only use it on my more maintained clients, as it is not really stong.
As for the orange peel, I would suggest wetsanding with 2500-3000 grit, then using a rotary with a good compound to remove the marring. Follow up with a medium polish, then a final polish to really show it off. Top with whatever protection, and your good to go.
I would be one to suggest the Poorboy's products. I have seen the problems with Red (specifically Ford) myself, and have gotten great results with them. I also have the Wolfgang collection, but I only use it on my more maintained clients, as it is not really stong.
As for the orange peel, I would suggest wetsanding with 2500-3000 grit, then using a rotary with a good compound to remove the marring. Follow up with a medium polish, then a final polish to really show it off. Top with whatever protection, and your good to go.
Mike Phillips
Administrator
Hi Lynx331,
If you have never wet sanded a car before, I would caution against wet sanding a factory, baked on finish. It will more than likely be as hard as glass and if it is the factory paint, you don't have enough film-build to wet sand safely. Chances are very good that sooner or later you will burn through the clear in your attempt to remove you sanding marks.
If you have never wet sanded and buffed out a car, I always recommend learning on something that's not important to you first before tackling something that's important.
Mike
If you have never wet sanded a car before, I would caution against wet sanding a factory, baked on finish. It will more than likely be as hard as glass and if it is the factory paint, you don't have enough film-build to wet sand safely. Chances are very good that sooner or later you will burn through the clear in your attempt to remove you sanding marks.
If you have never wet sanded and buffed out a car, I always recommend learning on something that's not important to you first before tackling something that's important.
Mike
Focusedonsound
New member
Hi Lynx331,
Its always nice to see another Ford Mustang owner! If you have seen the pictures in the thread for the Poor Boys detailing day There is a Black 00 GT which is mine!
Any which way...I am sure that everyone on this board wil agree with me by saying.."Start with the least agressive method first"
Its would proabably be a good idea to start with something like Poorboys SSR2.5 (SSR 2.5 is a mid level abrasive product that will cut through your oxidation) this should leave you with great results.....
After the SSR2.5 I would follow up with either SSR1 (which is a very mild abrasive but is also a deminishing abrassive that will polish your paint a bit)
Follow that with PoorBoys Professional Polish (this will give you paint added shine and depth... and great reflections)
Follow up with a sealent like EX or EX-P, both of these products are used to seal out the elements for approx 6 months however if you read on here...no one leaves their car alone for that long and usually changes wax like they change their underwear...
After 24 hrs has passed the EX or Ex-P will have cured and You can go ahead and add a top coat of just Wax (ie: Meguiars #26, Poorboys Nattys,S100 ect... ) there are many different types of wax out there so don't feel as though you have to stick with one brand!!
9x out of 10 your going to have to order some products.... unless you have a near by auto body supply (which they rarely stock what you will need) which ever the case ...
Some other added info you will see alot of refrence to a PC (which is the porter cable polishers) I recomend getting one if you can... well worth the investment! If you don't want to go w/ that option don't feel that you can't do it by hand.... its going to take a lot more presistance and time but it will get there.
Just as added info... The reason I pesonally recomend the poorboys line is because it truely is great stuff! Its affordable, and most of all It actually works! like they say "not a lot of money...but what a shine"
I wouldn't recomend wet sanding ... its a lot of work and potentially dangerous to your finnish....
Its always nice to see another Ford Mustang owner! If you have seen the pictures in the thread for the Poor Boys detailing day There is a Black 00 GT which is mine!
Any which way...I am sure that everyone on this board wil agree with me by saying.."Start with the least agressive method first"
Its would proabably be a good idea to start with something like Poorboys SSR2.5 (SSR 2.5 is a mid level abrasive product that will cut through your oxidation) this should leave you with great results.....
After the SSR2.5 I would follow up with either SSR1 (which is a very mild abrasive but is also a deminishing abrassive that will polish your paint a bit)
Follow that with PoorBoys Professional Polish (this will give you paint added shine and depth... and great reflections)
Follow up with a sealent like EX or EX-P, both of these products are used to seal out the elements for approx 6 months however if you read on here...no one leaves their car alone for that long and usually changes wax like they change their underwear...
After 24 hrs has passed the EX or Ex-P will have cured and You can go ahead and add a top coat of just Wax (ie: Meguiars #26, Poorboys Nattys,S100 ect... ) there are many different types of wax out there so don't feel as though you have to stick with one brand!!
9x out of 10 your going to have to order some products.... unless you have a near by auto body supply (which they rarely stock what you will need) which ever the case ...
Some other added info you will see alot of refrence to a PC (which is the porter cable polishers) I recomend getting one if you can... well worth the investment! If you don't want to go w/ that option don't feel that you can't do it by hand.... its going to take a lot more presistance and time but it will get there.
Just as added info... The reason I pesonally recomend the poorboys line is because it truely is great stuff! Its affordable, and most of all It actually works! like they say "not a lot of money...but what a shine"
I wouldn't recomend wet sanding ... its a lot of work and potentially dangerous to your finnish....
Nickc0844
Owner and Tech. Rep
SSR2.5 will not remove orange peel, that is the main reason why I recommended the wetsanding, which should be done by a professional or someone with experience. Also, this step requires a rotary afterwards.
As for the oxidation, SSR's and PP would be the way to go!
As for the oxidation, SSR's and PP would be the way to go!
edschwab1
New member
Lynx331,
If you like Meguiars products keep using their products. Reds, yellows, and bright colors fade faster then darker colors, just the way it is. Do you have a PC?
For a Meguiars regement I would use the following process:
DACP #83
SFP #82
HP #81, if going directly to wax.
NXT x2 or #20x2 or combo of both #20 and NXT
Topped with GC, #26
The 98 laser Red stang in the picture was done with various products from various manufactors, but I am sure you can achieve similar results with just Meguiars products.
If you like Meguiars products keep using their products. Reds, yellows, and bright colors fade faster then darker colors, just the way it is. Do you have a PC?
For a Meguiars regement I would use the following process:
DACP #83
SFP #82
HP #81, if going directly to wax.
NXT x2 or #20x2 or combo of both #20 and NXT
Topped with GC, #26
The 98 laser Red stang in the picture was done with various products from various manufactors, but I am sure you can achieve similar results with just Meguiars products.
EBPcivicsi
GOT PREP?
My .02,
On factory paint, I would just live with the orange peel. It is one thing to wet sand an isolated defect, but to do the entire car IMO would just be too big of a risk. Not enough clear.
On factory paint, I would just live with the orange peel. It is one thing to wet sand an isolated defect, but to do the entire car IMO would just be too big of a risk. Not enough clear.
edschwab1
New member
Lynx331 said:
Lots of time.
If I remember correctly the process was:
Wash
Clay
Meg. Medallion Premium paint cleaner (I cannot remember if I used this on that detail or prior a detail.)(I should keep a log of what I do)
DACP #83 with LC yellow cutting on PC
3M PI-III MG (05937) with Meg Yellow polishing pad (M8006)on PC
50/50 Water/Alcohol wipe down
AIOx2
KSGx4
UPPx2
All work with PC done using 1200W halogens. The car's paint was almost defect free except for factory defects, (which you need to look for using halogens and be an inch or two away from the paint) a deep scratch and couple of chips.
I hope this helps.
Eric