Help me with my plunge into serious detailing

danz24- You'd better use something with a bit of cut after the 1Z Pasta Intensive, and do the final Pasta Intensiv passes with a fairly mild pad.



You have a whole scad of compounds and polishes...you gonna buy all those :eek:



Just the 1Z Pasta Intensive and something milder oughta do it.



*I* wouldn't be using the Pasta Intensiv with any pad larger than a 4" on your UDM, but that's just me and I've never used a UDM either so :nixweiss



And don't think you *need* a sealant or a glaze..Honestly, I'd suggest you just compound/polish/wax..that's enough to master for now. I keep things simple on most of my vehicles and they turn out good enough for me (and that's saying something ;) ).



Seriously...don't overthink/overcomplicate this or you'll actually be *much less likely* to achieve a favorable outcome.



If I were spending your money or if I were in your shoes (and had to start with the Pasta Intensiv ;) ), I'd get that, the Paint Polish in the green can, and I'd top that with wax. Yep, just those. By the time you finish doing the wash, clay, and those three products you'll be tuckered out anyhow.
 
o no Im not going to buy all those. Those are just my choices in which product I should buy for each category, im sorry I should have clarified that. The reason I was disregarding the consumer line that you suggested is that I cannot buy them from eshine. Which products would you suggest from the list?



I put the sealant/glaze as people have suggested that it makes the shine last much longer and the red moose glaze had rave reviews on black paint. I got sold on that.



In regards to the pad size for the UDM, I seriously dont know what size pads they are. Here is a link to the UDM im getting, eShine Canada: 3.1 Ultimate Detailing Machine Swirl Buster Kit
 
Where do you find the Emmin Fabrick Tire Cleaner? I've googled it and I can't seem to locate it.



TH0001 said:
It depends how serious you want to get... I like to have a variety of everything to cover all situations... A small sample of what we generally carry. You said "serious"



Wash Supplies...



Several quality car soaps (We carry Z7, ONR, 1Z Pearls, amognst others)

2 to 3 buckets with grit guards

Several lambs skin wash bits

Different boars hair brushes

CR Spotless Water De-Ionizer

Leaf Blower

High quality waffle weave and plush microfibers

Tire brush and quality tire cleaner (I like Emmin Fabrick Tire Cleaner)

Several Wheel Cleaners (P21s Wheel Gel, Megs Wheel Brightner)

Various wheel brushes (swissvax's, EZ Detail, others)

Various brushes for wheel arches etc

Quality APC's (I like Meguiars)

Bug Tar remover (Surf City)

High strength wash (P21s Total Body Wash)

Q-Tips

High Quality QD's (Z6, Z8, FK1 425, Meguiars UQD, Pinnacle Crystal Mist)

Tire Dressings (Optimum, Meguiars Hotshine, Cleak Kote, Z16)



Paint Correction.



Rotary (I prefer Makita's 9227)



Paint Gauge

Lots of Pads in both regular and small size with various backing plates...

Compounds (Meguiars M105, M95, M84; 3M Extra Cut; Presta Strada 1000)

Meduim Polishes (Meguiars M83, M80; Menzerna PO91, P083, 114E; Optimum Polish, 1Z Intesive)

Final Polishes (Meguiars M09; Menzerna PO85u, PO85rd, PO87mc, PO106ff/fa; Zaino Z-PC, 3M Ultra Fina-SE)

Glazes (Clear Kote RMG, Meguiars #07, Meguiars #03-HD Cleanse, XMT Finishing Glaze, DWG)

Also 3M 1500 and 2000 grit sand papers and Meguiars UniGrit 2500 and 3000 grit.



I'm tired of typing but it depends on how serious you are willing to get...
Click to expand...
 
danz24 said:
o no Im not going to buy all those. Those are just my choices in which product I should buy for each category, im sorry I should have clarified that. The reason I was disregarding the consumer line that you suggested is that I cannot buy them from eshine. Which products would you suggest from the list?



I put the sealant/glaze as people have suggested that it makes the shine last much longer and the red moose glaze had rave reviews on black paint. I got sold on that.



In regards to the pad size for the UDM, I seriously dont know what size pads they are. Here is a link to the UDM im getting, eShine Canada: 3.1 Ultimate Detailing Machine Swirl Buster Kit
Click to expand...



OK..but I don't know how well the Pasta Intensiv will work with those big pads.



I really don't know what to recommend for the follow-up product. It seems like too big a jump between the Pasta Intensiv and the milder stuff (that Menzerna final/micro stuff probably shouldn't be used until things are basically perfect).



I myself would get the right products even if I had to shop around for them. See if they have the 1Z High Gloss and just use it and the Pasta Intensiv.



I reall do think you could just skip the glaze/sealant/etc... two polishes and a wax. Sorry, I know I'm a broken record on that but I'm telling you...after six or eight (or twice that) hours you'll be ready to just throw on a coat of wax and say "good enough" ;)
 
danz24 said:
o no Im not going to buy all those. Those are just my choices in which product I should buy for each category, im sorry I should have clarified that. The reason I was disregarding the consumer line that you suggested is that I cannot buy them from eshine. Which products would you suggest from the list?



I put the sealant/glaze as people have suggested that it makes the shine last much longer and the red moose glaze had rave reviews on black paint. I got sold on that.



In regards to the pad size for the UDM, I seriously dont know what size pads they are. Here is a link to the UDM im getting, eShine Canada: 3.1 Ultimate Detailing Machine Swirl Buster Kit
Click to expand...



The eshine kit has a 5.5 backing plate; unfortunately the smallest you can go without purchasing a nw backing plate would be a 5.5 pads. The pads that come with the UDM are usually 6.5 or 6 inch. You can purchase this:



eShine Canada: Customizable 4" Pad Starter Kit w/Backing Plate



You can use the 4' pads with this. The reason it is better to go for smaller pads on compounding is it cuts down your time considerably since rotations are smaller and more focused.



The RMG does not remove scratches but fills them in temporarily; polishing them out is usually preferred but sometimes glazing is necessary if the scratches are too deep in the clear coat and can't be removed without jepordizing the clearcoat.



Before you continue though; I highly recommend you read this guide. It will answer alot of the stuff you are unsure about:



http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/images/misc/dapolishing.pdf
 
Thanks so much for that guide. I have read it and will use it as my detailing "bible". I have chosen to purchase the SSR1,SSR2.5 and SSR2 (and maybe RMG)using the steps outlined on pg 20.



So i'm just about good to go.



Just a few last min questions:

1. Do people necessarily purchase the 4inch pads for the UDM?

2. Does LSP=wax?

3. If I can get away with using just SSR1 and my next step would be LSP, would it be safe to use the red moose glaze as a sealant?

4. If I use Red moose glaze as a filler rather than the SSR1, approximately how long with the fillers last?

5. Is there a way to test the thickness of my paint without a paint gauge?

6. Can colourX be used in lieu of SSR1, (im assuming they have the same cutting power?)
 
danz24 said:
............Just a few last min questions:

1. Do people necessarily purchase the 4inch pads for the UDM?
Click to expand...
Yes, but you'll also need a 3.5" BP (backing plate) to use them safely.
2. Does LSP=wax?
Click to expand...
Last Step Product..... could be a wax or sealer.

3. If I can get away with using just SSR1 and my next step would be LSP, would it be safe to use the red moose glaze as a sealant?
Click to expand...
No, RMG is not very durable at all is is meant to be topped with a wax. There are some sealers, like Poorboy's EX and EX-P that play well with RMG, but but most sealers will have a problem bonding to RMG.
4. If I use Red moose glaze as a filler rather than the SSR1, approximately how long with the fillers last?
Click to expand...
SSR1 isn't really a glaze, it's a very light polish...... you'd use RMG after SSR1. RMG doesn't really fill a whole lot, at least IME. If you keep whatever LSP you're using after RMG topped up before it wears off it will look good for quite a while.
5. Is there a way to test the thickness of my paint without a paint gauge?
Click to expand...
Not really, unless you have a chip or scratch that goes to metal, and even then it is only an indicator for that area on that panel.
6. Can colourX be used in lieu of SSR1, (im assuming they have the same cutting power?)
Click to expand...
If I'm not mistaken I believe ColorX is more of a chemical cleaner than an abrasive, but it has been a few years since I have used ColorX.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top