HELP/intro: Paint continues to haze no matter what.

A

Aerowagon

New member
Hi, this is my first post. I have a 1983 Toyota Supra. And I have a question about my paint. I read all the "how to's" on the main page but I am still wondering what I can do to keep my paint looking good other than keep my car out of the sun and the rain.



I am a novice detailer, pretty much just stick to paint cleaning, waxing, and cleaning/shampoo the interior.



I have a problem, the paint on my Supra stinks.



If I clean it with
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,



and then wax it with
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it looks fantastic.. For about two weeks (could be a little longer depending on how often I drive it, and if its not in my garage out of the sun) But then it hazes right up.



I was visiting a friend at the local Honda Dealership the other day, and washed my Supra with their premixed soap from the dispenser. I assumed since they use it on brand new cars, then it would be just fine for my 25 year old car. I guess not, it made my paint haze up even more and left streaks from the brush and drip marks from where it ran down the side of the car.



So is there something I am doing wrong? Should I use another wax/cleaner? Should I put more than one coat of wax on?







Heres some pictures of what I am talking about:



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DSC_8554.jpg




If this post belongs in another section, mods plz move it.



Any help is greatly appreciated!!



-Bryan
 
where are you located...if in so cal, orange county, i can take care of it for you then you can maintain it...or you can find some other detailer in your area in the region section



you need to compound, remove oxidation, polish, clay, remove etching, etc....looks like oxidized/etched/swirled up paint...what you are using is not going to help at all.
 
When I do the Paint cleaner it gets rid of all that, but it just comes back in a few weeks if not sooner.



I would like to know if I can keep it looking nice, or am I going to have to paint the car.
 
It looks like a light polish is needed. I am in upstate NY myself if you want to set something up with me to take a look. I might be able to teach you a few things as well. If you don't have a machine, I'd start by trying Meg's scratch X to see if it does anything, then use the paint cleaner, then the wax.
 
ma61 said:
When I do the Paint cleaner it gets rid of all that, but it just comes back in a few weeks if not sooner................
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It isn't getting rid of it, it is just masking it. My guess is the Meg's Paint Cleaner (which is non-abrasive) contains some oils that aid in masking your problem/s, but in time they dry out and then your problems come back.
ma61 said:
.........I would like to know if I can keep it looking nice, or am I going to have to paint the car.
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As a couple of guys have responded your paint hopefully just needs some more work. That's going to be a lot of work by hand, so if one of the members who offered some help live close to you I'd be inclined to take them up on their offer.
 
Been there, done that. You have the infamous Toyota SS red paint. After 25 years, it is in it's last days. I maintained mine for several months by using paint cleaners and sealants every week or two. Any exposure to the elements accelerates the fading and oxidation. Fortunately the paint is soft and easy to correct but having to polish every week or two is a nuisance. The only real cure is a repaint. If/when you choose to repaint, I'd look for another SS paint but a modern PPG, Sikkens or Dupont SS variety. IMHO, SS looks much better on solid colors.
 
jfelbab said:
Been there, done that. You have the infamous Toyota SS red paint. After 25 years, it is in it's last days. I maintained mine for several months by using paint cleaners and sealants every week or two. Any exposure to the elements accelerates the fading and oxidation. Fortunately the paint is soft and easy to correct but having to polish every week or two is a nuisance. The only real cure is a repaint. If/when you choose to repaint, I'd look for another SS paint but a modern PPG, Sikkens or Dupont SS variety. IMHO, SS looks much better on solid colors.
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Is it because its a 1 Stage paint? The Supra is actually not red, its Terra Cotta(orangish red). But I had a 94 Camry Coupe that was the red you speak of, I think the same color code as your Mr2(very nice BTW), and it did the same thing as my Supra. It would just last a little longer when I waxed it.



Eliot Ness said:
It isn't getting rid of it, it is just masking it. My guess is the Meg's Paint Cleaner (which is non-abrasive) contains some oils that aid in masking your problem/s, but in time they dry out and then your problems come back.As a couple of guys have responded your paint hopefully just needs some more work. That's going to be a lot of work by hand, so if one of the members who offered some help live close to you I'd be inclined to take them up on their offer.
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What would you recommend I should use instead of the Megs?



xfire said:
It looks like a light polish is needed. I am in upstate NY myself if you want to set something up with me to take a look. I might be able to teach you a few things as well. If you don't have a machine, I'd start by trying Meg's scratch X to see if it does anything, then use the paint cleaner, then the wax.
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Where in NY are you?
 
ma61 said:
dont everyone answer all at once.
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If you don't find someone to help you out and you wind up doing it by hand then I'd try a version of what xfire suggested to see how it will work. I'd use a mildly abrasive polish to help clean up the paint and then I'd try Collinite 476 wax to see if it holds up longer than what you're using.



A mild polish that will actually add some oils to your SS paint and isn't too hard to use by hand is Meg's #80, hopefully that will clean up the stains and oxidation:



Meguiars #80 Professional Speed Glaze is a gentle car polish that removes swirl marks & paint oxidation. Use Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze with your



One of the longest lasting waxes used around here is Collinite 476:



Collinite Super DoubleCoat Auto Wax #476



I would apply one coat and then after the next wash apply another. Remember for ease of removal to apply it super thin.



Make sure you use a good car wash (not dish soap) and use the correct amount so you don't strip off your wax when washing. Collinite is pretty durable but there isn't any reason to weaken it with an incorrect wash if it isn't necessary.



If your paint is dead all you can hope for is a process that keeps it looking decent as long as possible until it hits the paint booth.



Edit: If you're doing this all by hand you might want to consider one of these, they will make your task at least a little easier:



Danase Grip Easy Applicator Handle



Wolfgang Polishin’ Pal is an ergonomically shaped urethane handle that holds specially designed foam pads using hooks & loops.
 
Thanks John for the detailed (ha) response.



I actually just used the megs paint cleaner again and just went over the bad spots twice. I can still see some of the stains and such, so I will give the #80 speed glaze a try.



I bought the megs NXT paste, and put 3 extra coats on the hood and roof, I'll see how that holds up.



I havent tried the Collinite 476, but I should since they are based in my city and my friends father is the president. LoL.
 
If you are working by hand give Meg's ColorX a try. It does a good job of cutting oxidation by hand. It's inexpensive and easy to find locally. It's really your best option given your circumstances.
 
You will probably need to hit the car first with Meguiars #83 first and then with #80. You have to remove all the dead layers of paint for there to be any chance for the shine to last. Then you have to keep it up religiously.



If after deep polishing the paint is still oxidizing quickly then your only real solution is a repaint.
 
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