Help getting my tie rod dissconnected..please!

Bob

Bob

New member
Ok, I have tried beating all around on the strut and tried beating the tie rod out with a bear filled rubber mallet. Not even a budge.

p.s. I am installing drop springs not changing the tie rod.

Here is what it looks like.

11.jpg


I am afraid if I do this I will mess up the threads.
spring3.gif
 
first a question. How many miles? It may be beneficial to go ahead and change them anyhow. it is not that expensive and if you mark the thread where it screw onto the inner tie rod, you shouldn't need to get it realigned. as far as removal goes, pic up a 2 jaw puller or tie rod seperator (looks like a tuning fork)

Eric

*note* I like to replace them just so that you can grease them regularly. I will never know why they went to sealed type :dunno
 
They should be fine cause I only have 16000 miles on the car. Everyone that has attempted to use the fork seperater tool has torn their boot also. I have some PB Blaster soaking on it so at lunch I am goig to try it again.

And I have no idea why they are sealed. I like the option to grease them also.
 
Are you sure the pb blaster will not ruin the boot? Have you seen what that stuff will do to a styrofoam cup :eek I believe no matter what, you may have to apply more force from the bottom as they are pressed in :dunno

Eric
 
Yeah, that stuff will be cool on the rubber boot. I have been using it for years on just about anythign and everything. ;)

I am thinking of taking a 2x4 between the bottom bolt and my hammer and see if I can pound it out that way.
 
if you are really trying to be careful, then I would pic up a small puller (if you do not have one) it is the easiest and safest way to go.

Eric
 
yeah they run about $15 - $30 depending where you go. I know that all the autoparts stores do have them

Eric
 
Beat on the nut with a hammer, not the threaded rod. Worst case you will need a new nut. Or, borrow a ball joint fork (pickle fork, whatever) from the auto store, this is actually the proper tool to use. With it you hammer the fork, thus not damaging the tie rod. Email me if you need more info...
 
read a few post's up steve :) he said he knows people who have torn the boot doing it that way :dunno
 
Well how about the beat on the nut method (screw nut on a couple turns to where it's on but not to where the thread sticks out of the top of the nut)--- worst case you mess up the nut. The threads are unharmed.
 
I would go with the puller myself. I used one to change lower balljoint on my car a couple weeks ago. I do not like to swing a hammer anywhere near my car, accidents happen. Not only that but you look as though you just have it up on stands so you are limited with space JMO

Eric
 
Yeah, my garage is not equipped with a hoist. ;)

I might run and hope Murray's has the puller after work.
 
Yeah, I was actually just looking at that. haha

Thanks for all the help fellas! I can not wait to get my suspension complete for now!
 
oh one other thing.......
you can jack up the threaded portion up out of the control arm. This uses the weight of the car (~500-1000lb) to pop the tie rod out. you can even place a 2x4 between the thread and the jack.
this way there is no hammer involved:dancin :beat
 
You two got me thinking now....I have a huge a$$ c-clamp I think I could use to press it out instead of buying or renting a tool. I am also diggin' the jack idea. :D
 
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