Help: First time w/ PC + Poorboy's

palomino

palomino

just like cellophane
This is my first time using a PC, and I'm not quite seeing the results I was expecting. The car is a rough, unloved 97 geo metro. It's my test guinea pig before I do my bimmer. I washed & clayed, of course. I went over the car once with Poorboys SSR 2.5 on the orange pad at speed 2.5, then again at speed 4.5. Wiped off with a clean towel. Followed that with SSR 1 on a white pad at the same speeds. I will be going out shortly to do a round of EX-P and Natty's. The paint is really smooth, glossy, and most people would say its a 100% improvement, like-new. But alas, I happen to be a nutcase and I noticed that my reflection in the paint is not a clear line, but a touch hazy looking.

Do you think the car just needed something stronger than the SSR 2.5 to begin with? Maybe I should have done another round with either of the polishes? Will I get clear reflections after the EX-P or Natty's (i dont think so)?

Thanks in advance!
 
Has the vehicle ever been repainted? It may just be the best that you can get out of the paint. If it's a 97 and hasnt been cared for, that means that finish has been taking abuse for 8 years, and could just be showing it's age. I dont think you can get geo paint to the level of a bimmer's paint though. If it's 100% improvement, and you're definitely doing everything right...I'd just accept the fact that it's 8 years old, and it looks the best that it can.

Just to make sure you are doing everything right, can you give a detailed description of your processes. How long are you working the polish etc, etc.

HTH
 
SSR2.5 needs a high PC speed to properly break down the abrasives. Try it again with a light cut pad (orange color for Lake Country brand pads, green color for Edge brand pads) around speed 5.5-6. You may also need to follow-up with a polishing pad (LC white or Edge blue) at the same speed if the surface is truly neglected.

SSR1 works best around PC speed 4.5. Use a polishing pad if there is some surface correction still needed. Use a finishing pad if your main goal is less surface correction but more gloss enhancement (the "looks" of a glaze).
 
yeah it definatly sounds like there is some hazing. Just go over it with 2.5 and a polishing pad and then again with ssr1 like mentioned above. You may have to take several passes to get the hazing to be removed. hazing is very tricky and annoying to get rid of. Let us know how it works out.

Greg
 
When using the PC and SSR 2.5 on a cutting pad, one should always follow with SSR 2.5 and a polishing pad. This was mentioned above but it is worthy of repeat, so the final process should look something like this:
1. 2.5 w/ cutting pad
2. 2.5 w/ polishing pad
3. 1 w/ polishing pad
4. EX-P w/ finishing pad
5. Natty's by hand

JJ
 
I just finished off the metro with the EX-P and Natty's without another round of SSR2.5. Thanks for telling me to use higher speeds with the SSR2.5 Ill be sure to do that on my bimmer, even if it makes my arms feel like they will fall off. The things you do for love, right?

Is Natty's Blue really that much better on a dark car than original Natty's? Also, do you PC all the painted parts (rocker panels, air dams, etc) or just the larger, upper ones? Do you tape off rubber/plastic moldings or is there a secret potion/magic spell to get the polish off these parts?

Anyways, doing my beloved 328, Ill be sure to spend more time going over & over each panel. Does this seem like a better regimen for my car? The treatment will be:
-SSR2.5 on Wolfgang's "Orange Light Cutting Pad"
-SSR2.5 on the "White Polishing Pad"
-SSR1 on the "White Polishing Pad"
-EX-P on the "Gray Finishing Pad"
-Natty's by hand

You guys are my favorites. I love how knowledgable you all are.
Thanks a ton!
 
awd330 said:
Use a finishing pad if your main goal is less surface correction but more gloss enhancement (the "looks" of a glaze).
Click to expand...

Just as awd330 says, use SSR1 with a finishing pad after using SSR1 with a polishing pad to add to the gloss. It should act like a glaze. This will not remove any surface defects. It just adds to the look. HTH's


Bryan
 
If the vehicle already has Natty will it harm it in any way if EX-P is applied over it?

Sorry about hi-jacking this thread. Still a newbie.
 
How does SSR2.5 W/ meg's w8006 polishing pad, SSR1 W/ meg's w8006 pad, and DC#2 with terry cloth pad sound or should I use w9006 finishing pad with the DC#2? I'm trying to remove cobwebb scratches and water etches.
 
bsdsys_x86 said:
Just as awd330 says, use SSR1 with a finishing pad after using SSR1 with a polishing pad to add to the gloss. It should act like a glaze. This will not remove any surface defects. It just adds to the look. HTH's


Bryan
Click to expand...

What is the poorboy PP (profession Polish) do?

do i need that and if i do when does that goes into the process?

Can someone write downs the step for an 95 integra with a lot of swirls and oxidation? Plus i have a brand new TL and would it be ok to polish it with SSR1 and will that go into the clear coat?
 
bored7one4 said:
What is the poorboy PP (profession Polish) do?

do i need that and if i do when does that goes into the process?

Can someone write downs the step for an 95 integra with a lot of swirls and oxidation? Plus i have a brand new TL and would it be ok to polish it with SSR1 and will that go into the clear coat?
Click to expand...


Didn't I give you detailed enough directions on that? I'm confused to what you want. There is only one way to skin a cat in this situation. Take your PC, put some polish on the pad, and remove the swirls. I can't get more detailed than I already was in your other thread. The PC is pretty easy to use once you turn it on. You will figure out the easiest way for you to use it.

If the car is new then SSR1 would probably do the job on minor swirls. Proper washing and drying techniques will be helpful in keeping them from coming back.
 
I have a differnt way of using the poorboy line.

ssr2.5 with a lake country blue or black pad. You should work the 2.5 into the paint until the polish almost looks to be non-exisitent. But be carefull, you need to check the pad and see if its still moist with product. You might have to repeat this process a couple times.

People will say to start with ssr2.5 with a light cutting pad(orange) "but to use a cutting pad with a cutting agent is two much", anyways most will move down from there to ssr1 to clean up the hazing with a lake country black pad. then of course seal and wax.

You know every body has differnt methods, but if you choose to use poorboys "which is very good stuff" you should stick with lake country pads only. Dont mix and match for the simple fact it gets confusing.

You know maybe ssr2.5 might be two much I would use ssr2 to be on the safe side if that fails then move up.

Please correct me if you feel IM wrong, this is just my opinon.

alex
 
ok so if i use poorboy pro polish with a finishing pad on my clear coat, will it thin my paint or clear coat or will it just make it shine?
 
Appply and buff at a slow speed covering the panel, then take a MF to it and you should have a mirror shine. Or are you looking to remove inperfections with it?
 
lonewolf0420 said:
Appply and buff at a slow speed covering the panel, then take a MF to it and you should have a mirror shine. Or are you looking to remove inperfections with it?
Click to expand...

no my car is still pretty new so there isnt much imperfections.
 
I've actually had a really good experience with 2.5 on a propel orange finishing down to lsp stage.
 
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