Heavyweight wax test: 845 v. 476s v. FK1000p, and 1 coat v. 2 coats

E

extrabolts

New member
Time for a test among the heavyweights. The following contestants:



- 1 coat of collinite 845

- 2 coats of collinite 845

- 1 coat of FK1000P

- 2 coats of FK1000P

- 1 coat of 476s

- 2 coats of 476s



The donor car is black, in the south, and sits outside fulltime. The paint on it straight up bakes during the summer. No doubt the paint reaches temperatures above the melting point of 845 and 476s, but will it matter? How much extra protection do you get from a second coat? Let's find out.



Unfortunately I could not get the light good enough to capture the micro-marring, so I can't post any pictures of filling ability. The hood was prepped by spraying the whole thing down with Adam's APC and then washing off with regular car wash soap, 4 times. Then I went over it all with IPA just to be sure we had a clean surface.



The test is on the hood. I did the sections horizontal so that each wax will have at least two areas with little to no engine heat - each on the side. This car is driven only rarely during the summer. Anyway, the roof of my car is disgraceful, hard to get up to and take pictures, and just wasn't a good option.



The setup:

extrabolts-albums282-3322.JPG




First coat applied and buffed off:

extrabolts-albums282-3323.JPG




The car will sit for four days, and then I'll put a second coat on each of the two coat sections.



My current preference is 476s because I like to wax my car (glass, trim, paint, chrome), not just my paint. With the FK1000P I get white stuff in the crevices and have to watch out for accidentally leaving some on the trim, also makes it very difficult to wax the windows because on this car I have rubber trim around everything. However, I've been willing to put up with FK1000P due to its high temp properties since this car bakes all summer long. Now we'll see if its worth the extra effort.
 
What I think *I* will find interesting is how extrabolts's results compare with mine :think: I'm getting used to people reporting how their experiences differ from, or are identical to, mine...whole lotta variables in play here.



And it's funny how...at least IME...some LSPs just do/don't work well with some surfaces. 845 is a widly variable for me and I've never figured out why :nixweiss



Oh with the FK1000P..try moving the applicator "away" or "along" the edges of problem areas; if you push it "up against" or "over" the edges it leaves more product residue. And use the W-O-W-O method on trim/etc. (some people might want to do that with the 476S too).
 
2nd coats applied:



extrabolts-albums282-3327.jpg




Buffed and baking:

extrabolts-albums282-3328.jpg




I'm guessing the first update will be in ~6 weeks(ish). We'll see just how harsh the sun is on the black paint.
 
Which product had the best filling capabilities ?



Interesting comparison since I use all 3 of those products . I have often wondered if the 1000p has any more heat protection than other waxes have . I have not noticed any difference personally.



Accumulator , what are the pseudo-holograms that you speak of ? is it only with the 476 ? I want to see if I can see them on my vehicle as I don't think I can .



In my experiences I would give the slight nod to 1000p for shine , but but recently did some tests and purposely been washing with harsh detergents and carwashes and the Collinite has been tough as nails . (thats with 2 coats of 845 on some areas and 2 coats of 476 in others ) the dirt / water shedding has been a plus over the 1000p also , but still hard to get away from the looks of the 1000p .
 
Accumulator said:
And it's funny how...at least IME...some LSPs just do/don't work well with some surfaces. 845 is a widly variable for me and I've never figured out why :nixweiss
Click to expand...



I've had the exact same issue with 845IW. The first time I tried it on my yellow single stage paint, I was extremely disappointed and could not understand why so many people loved it so much. This included the fact that it did NOT come off easily or cleanly for me. Finally decided to try it again, this time on silver metallic paint, and the results were excellent. I now consider 845 to be the best bang for the buck LSP money can buy.
 
Fallguy said:
Which product had the best filling capabilities ?
Click to expand...



Well, it sure won't be the FK1000P, despite what one might expect from all the "white residue" stuff it can leave behind.



IME the 476S is the best at concealing. No miracle-worker, but well..you know how "heavy paste waxes" are, and this is right in line with that.



Sometimes the 845 conceals surprisingly well, that's one reason why I use it on the beater-Audi.



Interesting comparison since I use all 3 of those products . I have often wondered if the 1000p has any more heat protection than other waxes have . I have not noticed any difference personally.
Click to expand...



Well, IMO most waxes are more heat resistant than people would expect. OK, not Souveran IME, but generally all that talk of "waxes evaporating at xxx degrees" simply doesn't hold true for me.



FK sorta stirred the pot naming FK1000P a "Hi Temp Wax" instead of just calling it a sealant.



Accumulator , what are the pseudo-holograms that you speak of ? is it only with the 476 ? I want to see if I can see them on my vehicle as I don't think I can .
Click to expand...



I've had them with 476S and FK1000P. It's apparently as solvent-action effect where the subsequent applications/"layers" mess with the underlying ones. It looks like, well....holograms. Not trying to be a smart-@$$ or anything, it just looks like that. I call them "pseudo" because they're not the "real thing" as in done with a rotary, but they look pretty much identical.



Sometimes they're pretty subtle, gotta get the light (sunlight or the SunGun, very tough to do with the latter though) just right if they're not really awful.



Buffing the FK1000P with MFs and FK425 fixed those, but man did I have to press...wouldn't like to try that on really soft paint! With the 476S they'll sometimes buff out with QD, but otherwise the quickest fix is to rewax with 845. I *think* the 845 does a little solvent-action of its own and "smooths out" the 476S, rather than just "filling" since they don't come back later.



The way 476S does this is the reason why I do the "Collinite sandwich"- 845, then 476S, then more 845. I simply gave up on doing multiple applicatons of 476S by itself.



In my experiences I would give the slight nod to 1000p for shine , but but recently did some tests and purposely been washing with harsh detergents and carwashes and the Collinite has been tough as nails . (thats with 2 coats of 845 on some areas and 2 coats of 476 in others ) the dirt / water shedding has been a plus over the 1000p also , but still hard to get away from the looks of the 1000p .
Click to expand...



Heh heh, I'm sure not gonna :argue with somebody's first-hand experiences, but I sure do wonder why the Collinite/FK1000P dirt shedding comparisons work out so differently for different people :confused: I mean...I was sold on Collinite for *years* until the FK1000P proved so superior (in the exact same applicatons) that I changed my tune :nixweiss
 
Rob Tomlin said:
I've had the exact same issue with 845IW..
Click to expand...



Heh heh, glad to hear it's not just me! Yeah, I'm still usingit quite happily on the beater-Audi, but it's not the right stuff for every application.
 
Nope, no issues with the second coats.



All of these did some filling for me, but I'd give the nod to the collinite products. I'd say the collinite areas reduced my micro-marring by 85%, FK1000P by 70%. I think my experience with the filling ability of these products is more a reflection of how fine my micro-marring is. You can only see it if you look directly into the sun's reflection, even from 2 feet away looking at an angle none of it will show up without wax. So I think almost any wax will help with this. I don't want to give the impression that I'm testing these on a surface that needs any serious correction. If you have the type of marring where you can see it when it is cloudy, or in full sun from more than 5' away, I'm no help. I have two coats of FK1000P on the rest of my car, and my scratches still look like scratches. It only helped for very fine wash-marring.



As to looks, they basically all look the same to me. I can split hairs and say that looking very closely the collinite products leave the paint a bit darker. I can't capture it with the camera, but the FK1000P areas look freshly polished / no color change to where the tape was and there is no product.



As to dirt-shedding, we'll find out! I'll update with some pictures once we get a rain storm, etc.
 
:think: This was supposed to be a simple update - one where I say everything is in good shape and I'll update again in another couple of months. Not so.



The car sat without being driven (or cleaned) for three weeks, baking in the sun and being subjected to thunderstorms every couple of days. So I've only washed the car once since the original post. Today I washed again.



Slow sheeting, even after being washed, deformed beading, can it be true - everything is on its way out after sitting out in the southern sun for two months? All surfaces looked the same, whether one or two coats of 845, 476, or FK1000p.



Here is a picture of the slooow sheeting after washing:



extrabolts-albums287-3564.JPG




And here is one of the deformed beading:

extrabolts-albums287-3565.JPG




The strange thing is, I still have the 8 way wax test going on another car, which started before this test, and many waxes are still doing fine (including 845 and 476). However, that car is not black, and it is garaged. I guess being outside, in the sun, and black, the temperatures just got too hot.



I still have some protection on all surfaces, I can tell that. I'm not ready to throw in the towel just yet - I have seen before where 476 or FK mysteriously "bounced back" after a couple of washes. So I'll update again in a month or so, but for now its not looking good. I definitely don't have any nice, tight beading, and I'd reapply wax again to each of the sections if I wasn't doing this test.



:nixweiss
 
I think it mostly depends on what sort of soap you use to wash with. ONR/CG Citrus (properly diluted) are known for their gloss enhancing properties (which could probably be translated into wax 'revitalizing' characteristics).
 
extrabolts- Huh, that really *did* seem to kill 'em off, huh?!? But as you said, sometimes those products bounce back somehow.



I do wonder about the shampoo...noting that I always use Griot's...and the *method* of cleaning. While I keep my vehicles garaged, I sometimes let them get simply awful, and my wife's A8 gets really nasty during her trips to Dixie, where it sits outside in the heat too. When faced with such soiling, I end up doing many passes with mild shampoo mix and gentle techniques (as opposed to doing fewer but more aggressive passes). Wonder if that factors in :confused:
 
extrabolts said:
Nope, no issues with the second coats.



All of these did some filling for me, but I'd give the nod to the collinite products. I'd say the collinite areas reduced my micro-marring by 85%, FK1000P by 70%. I think my experience with the filling ability of these products is more a reflection of how fine my micro-marring is. You can only see it if you look directly into the sun's reflection, even from 2 feet away looking at an angle none of it will show up without wax. So I think almost any wax will help with this. I don't want to give the impression that I'm testing these on a surface that needs any serious correction. If you have the type of marring where you can see it when it is cloudy, or in full sun from more than 5' away, I'm no help. I have two coats of FK1000P on the rest of my car, and my scratches still look like scratches. It only helped for very fine wash-marring.



As to looks, they basically all look the same to me. I can split hairs and say that looking very closely the collinite products leave the paint a bit darker. I can't capture it with the camera, but the FK1000P areas look freshly polished / no color change to where the tape was and there is no product.



As to dirt-shedding, we'll find out! I'll update with some pictures once we get a rain storm, etc.
Click to expand...



I think the best dirt shedding sealant is DG105. It used to keep my car cleaner than anything i've ever used. I had used FK1000, but it seems to be breaking down as well and I have 3 coats on my car. It still beads very well on the sides on the car... on the hood... it doesn't seem to do as well.
 
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