Headlight restoration

zey

New member
What brand of high pressure washer you guys use?

Has anyone tried his/her own snow-wash at home?
 
Please use High Pressure Washers as emergency options. They are not "finish friendly". Don't buy one!
 
I have found that the pressure washers in the spray bay at a car wash are really weak. I always use the mist to spray the soap off the car, spraying the car from sevral feet away.



When I need to fill up my bucket it takes a full 2 minutes on the timer. It seems as if the nozzles are wicked tiny but there is alot of pressure behind then, a really good way to save money for them.



How is it harmful though???
 
Especially on cars with a worn out clear coat. A friend was washing his car trying to get the mud off so he put the sprayer close to the car and all of a sudden a good 4 inch piece of paint was ripped off the car. It was the original paint. Scary.
 
They can also blast debris "into" the paint. I aways caution those who use them to spray at really oblique angles and avoid "head on" pressure.



Some times you have no choice, like winter, just be careful. And never use the soap and wax options!
 
Jeepers creepers, for crying out loud.... Man, now I'm scared. I think I am gonna go for the bucket filled up and hand rinse it. Jeepers guy, I think my white drawers are brown.



If Betsy (my huge american cow for a car) ever heard this, she would kill me!
 
I discriminate. The beater gets the public car washes and the personal detailed cars get the TLC by handwash only. Dirt + high pressure = embedded dirt which leads to :eek: :eek: ...
 
This how I used to do it....



1.) Spray the car from a very good distance so only the mist of the hose would wet the cars paint.



2.) With the remaining time on the clock I would fill my bucket half way, add soap and fill the rest of the way.



3.) Hand wash the car.



4.) From the same distance as I was when I pre-soaked the car I would rinse it with the gun.



I have never had any problems because I stand so far away from the car. I put my hand about 2 feet from the nozzle and it's only a semi-strong mist of water. It seems like there wouldn't ever be a problem but you can never ever be too safe. It stinks because I need to do this all winter, in the spring, summer and fall it's always washed by hand. I am a clean nut and the car MUST be cleaned every time I use it, I go two days at most without having it cleaned. Considering I have a car cover I really make sure the car is clean.



I don't know what I would do is a huge flake of paint came off my car from the spray gun, I swear I think I would get gray hair, pass out or just ...... I don't know man, I don't even want to think of it.
 
How high is high pressure? I used a 1750 psi washer the other day, and it was pretty hard. I think something less than that would be better for paint.



Josiah
 
I have a pressure washer at work. A pressure washer has all sorts of applications. For washing big, muddy equipment like semi trucks and backhoes a pressure washer would be tough to be without. They are also great around the house for cleaning gutters, patios, fences etc etc. That said I don't use it to wash my car or personal truck.

Something that is overlooked is that a good pressure washer will have an adjustment for psi delivery. So you can turn them down. They also have a variety of tips. The tips with larger orifices and fan tips will work best for washing a car. You don't want to use the narrow angle or pinpoint tips. Those direct all of the pressure to a very small point and could conceivably cause damage to autopaint especially if the psi regulator is cranked up.

A good pressure washer will use a good engine (I like Honda small engines) and a good pump.

Here's a good source for a full range of pressure washers and accessories.

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Another reason to be careful when using power washers:



"Washing your car regularly is generally a good thing – but not necessarily if you're a TVR owner.

The independent Blackpool firm is recalling 900 Cerberas worldwide to replace part of the front suspension. A spokesman said the coupé's cast-aluminium uprights can corrode because of the aggressive cleaning chemicals found in some commercial jet-washers. The fault has only recently come to light through routine servicing by TVR dealers. Cars built between January 1997 and August this year – most of which are in the UK – are being called in."



Quote from AutoExpress magazine (UK).



Steven

Alfa 164 (would also love a TVR)
 
I just need to take it easy and make the best of what I have now. I live in a wicked tiny apartment and it's hard to store, use and hookup all of this stuff I would like to get. I am just going to pay my car off, get a house with a 4 car garage and go nuts with it. Pressure washer, the jacks that are flush with the floor like the ones you see at NTB, heat, ac etc... I could go on and on, probaly end up spending a good percent of what I paid for the house on the garage.
 
Pressure washers are a last resort only.



They are great with driveways and fences but watch them on house paint because it can blow it off!!
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Guess My Name [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>watch them on house paint because it can blow it off!! [/b]</blockquote>
That's what many painters will use to prep a house before painting.

I do think that it would be safer to use your own pressure washer with clean water and adjustable pressure than a coin op model. They use recycled water and are not adjustable for pressure or different tips for different spray patterns.
 
I have a pressure washing business. I have never had a problem with embedding particles in the paint of a car, however, I also do not wash show quality cars. I could understand the problem with the old style lacquers. I think that the new acrylics are a lot harder though and not so susceptible to this problem. I am sure that if I am wrong that Ketch will be along shortly to correct me. ;) There are a lot of options in pressure washers however. If you want a decent quality machine for a decent price try www.easycleansystems.com
There are numerous ways to control pressure on a machine,so that even a 3000 PSI machine can be rendered harmless to the paint, without damaging the paint. You do not have to use the full PSI to use the machine. A good distributor can give you a ,multitude of options to achieve teh goals you are looking for, you just need to remember that volume is better than pressure.
 
I have a PW and it works great.



Obviously you have to use it "smart". I've had nothing but good luck with it.



Those who have "ripped" paint must have been using HIGH pressure waaay to close on paint with some kind of problem already.



And today's carwashes don't recycle water. I had to research this quite a bit whilst battling a Mobil who's carwash popped a headlight.



The compromise for less water (environmentally sound) is higher pressure. That's obtained via narrow, precise apertures. Recycled water with crap in it would destroy these apertures.



In the winter, I've done well w/coin-ops. Spot-free rinse, waterblade...a fast ride home, some careful QD/MFT action and I can Klasse in the heated garage.
 
A simple rule of thumb would be like abrasive polishes or compounds, just your exchanging abrasivness for pressure in this situation.



*Use the least amount of pressure needed to get the job done* !!!



Overkill is when you might run into possible damage to your finish.



Soak heavy areas first to soften up the crud, mud or whatever, turn the pressure down and most if not all should come off without the super velocity that can possibly damage your paint or strip off any protectant.



TBone :)
 
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