having a "what products to use headache"..still

I

imported_arenner80

New member
:sosad 01 GMC, pewter metallic, light to moderate swirling. I am trying to figure out the best combination of products to use, and I just acquired a PC 7424. :waxing:



how does this sound, what should I do/use different?





1. wash

2. clay

3. PC with Swirlbuster pad and SB polish

4. klasse AIO-PC (what pad should I use?)

5. P21s -is there a different, more durable product that I can use?(what pad should I use")



thanks again, and again, and again :sadwavey:
 
I would use a finishing pad with the klasse AIO. The P21s isn't all that durable but using it in combination with the klasse will add a little bit more durability and should keep the shine a little longer. Just make sure you wait for a while before putting on the P21s so that the klasse has time to cure.
 
thanks, I am new to the pad scene-what pads should I be using?brand/type?

also, how long should I let the klasse cure? Would I be fine just using the SB, and going right to the Klasse AIO? And last, if I decided not to use the P21s, what would be good to use for durability/shine (my trucks sits outside in florida for extended periods of time. I was my truck every week/other week.
 
after the AIO I would go with a sealant, poorboys EXP or Werkstatt Acrylic Jett Trigger. Both very easy to use. You can apply those by hand if you wish.

Poorboys make top notch swirl removers, start with the least abbrasive formula and work your way up.

S100 is nice but lasts only a few weeks. I use Pink Wax which is not as natural/bio as S100 so it lasts a solid month. Allot of people like Natty's Blue on darker colors, don't know how dark your grey paint is.

For weekly touch ups I like the look of Optimum Car Wax or Aqua Wax.

and my go to final look preserver FK 425. (keeps the paint clean and smooth).
 
I just got done using my swirlbuster for the first time, it did a great job of removing or hiding the swirls and minor scratches. However, since I'm still waiting for my DG 105 to come and my Blackfire is getting old I used a Prestone sealant that I bought on closeout for $2. Now I know why it was closed out. It brought back almost every swirl but it has a deep reflective shine. Can't wait to get more practise and my DG!
 
How does this sound?



PB SR1 / white polishing pad

PB SSR2.5 / orange cutting pad / if the SR1 doesnt do the trick

Klasse AIO (by Hand)

Poorboys EX Sealant w/ Carnauba -Gray finishing pad
 
I used the swirlbuster polish and did the hood 3 times and you couldn't see any swirls. So I'm guessing it just hides them, but then again I'm new to this and may just need more practise. Overall I'm happy with the SB and Sonus in general, I'll only get better. Another thing this was a 15 year old car with average paint that has never been polished or clayed before, just a wash and a wax.

I'll take pics after the rain passes by.



Here are the pics, it was mostly cloudy and my mom was in a hurry to get home so the pics aren't the greatest.

http://s80.photobucket.com/albums/j187/GuyB_2006/Z-34/?sc=1&multi=8&addtype=local&media=image
 
like Celica lover said, the AIO would work better with a finishing pad than applied by hand.

Its very easy to use but since your are polishing the extra oomph of the PC would be good at this stage. You might be tempted to just quit at this point!

But the sealing is a little bit of effort that goes a long way.

I might try the cutting pad with SSR 1 before notching up the abbrasiveness of your SR.

If that still doesnt do the trick, try the SSR 2.5 with the milder pad first. then go for the cutting pad.

Sometimes the pad can make all the difference. Some people have had more success with removing swirls by using a smaller size pad/backing plate.
 
ok, I see. So my best bet would be to use the Sr1 with the cutting pad-if that doesnt do the trick I will use the ssr2.5 with the polishing pad.



next I will step up to the AIO with a polishing pad



and top it off with the sealant or wax (whatever I decide) with the finishing pad
 
I think your wax will last longer if you use it over the sealant instead of over AIO.



If you've got the time I might do AIO twice, once before and after the SSR 1 or 2.5



I like to remove swirls with as pollutant free a surface as possible rather than rolling all that stuff around with the swirl remover. Remember to go VERY SLOWLY left to right with the swirl remover.

If you spend two hours doing this job the bulk of your time should be spent on the the swirl removal process. I spend at least 45 minutes on this stage. It's not something you want to get into the habit of doing often. That clear coat layer is very thin before you get into the bare base layer.

So best to the job thoroughly and with the minimum amount of cutting.



and of course keep the cheap auto store MF towels away from your paint. They'll swirl up the paint after just a few go wash and drys. I believe that if you only have x to spend, spend most of it on good towels. Most polishes,waxes and quick detailers do a very very similar job, no need to spend tons of dough on that. Towels are radically different depending on price and country of origin.
 
Well the idea is to see what effect the SSR has. SSR1 may be enough to remove the scratches and swirls that are on your paint, but without pictures we cannot tell for sure. Only if there are still swirls and scratches should you move up to SSR2. However you may need to introduce the SS1 step again after SSR2, as you may have introduced maring. The sealant phase is essential in my eyes. Waxes in my experience are just used to give the paint a final "pop" adding little to durability. Sealants offer the long term durability and also as mentioned earlier, ensures the work done in the polishing stages is maintained.
 
^yep going back to ssr1 is a step I have forgotten do more than once. Which I am reminded of the next time the car is under parking lights and dem darn swirls are still there.
 
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