Harmful Tree Sap!
- Thread starter zey
- Start date
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
~One man’s opinion / observations ~
It would seem from your description that it has compromised the clear coat (it could be pine tree sap which is very acidic) do you have a solvent cleaner available (Megs ColorX, Klasse AIO, 3Ms?)
Are you using the ScratchX by hand (a pc with a damp foam pad and ScratchX is a little more aggressive)?
If that doesn’t work it would seem that something more abrasive is required (Megs DACP?)
I seem to be asking more questions than providing answers
~ Hope this helps ~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
It would seem from your description that it has compromised the clear coat (it could be pine tree sap which is very acidic) do you have a solvent cleaner available (Megs ColorX, Klasse AIO, 3Ms?)
Are you using the ScratchX by hand (a pc with a damp foam pad and ScratchX is a little more aggressive)?
If that doesn’t work it would seem that something more abrasive is required (Megs DACP?)
I seem to be asking more questions than providing answers
~ Hope this helps ~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
imported_mirrorfinishman
New member
zey said:
Yes, it is possible that the sap has gone below the paint.
Contrary to what has already been posted I would certainly not recommend getting more aggressive. That advice is just completely wrong.
Think about it, once the contamination has penetrated below the surface there is really not much you can do without wearing away the surface in the process.
detailbarn
Professional Detailer
What probally happened is the sap etched it self into the clear. It is very unlikely that it went through the clear. My suggestion would be to remove any standing sap with 3M general purpose adhesive remover and then follow what TOGWT said about using DACP with a yellow pad. This should remove 90% of the problem , I have had a few cases where I needed to wetsand small spot where sap was sitting for months.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Originally posted by zey
My dad's silver colour car got a small spot of yellow colour tree sap today. I tried to clay it away but the colour is still there. Later, I tried to use Scratch-X to remove the colour and blemish, it's still there! Is it because the yellow sap has gone below the paint?
~One man’s opinion / observations ~
It would seem from your description that it has compromised the clear coat (it could be pine tree sap which is very acidic) do you have a solvent cleaner available (Megs ColorX, Klasse AIO, 3Ms?)
Are you using the ScratchX by hand (a pc with a damp foam pad and ScratchX is a little more aggressive)?
If that doesn’t work it would seem that something more abrasive is required (Megs DACP?)
I seem to be asking more questions than providing answers
“Contrary to what has already been posted I would certainly not recommend getting more aggressive. That advice is just completely wrong.
Think about it, once the contamination has penetrated below the surface there is really not much you can do without wearing away the surface in the process�
Mirrorfinishman- If you have hints, tips, or corrections to the above procedure, please post them. I’m always anxious to improve my technique
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
My dad's silver colour car got a small spot of yellow colour tree sap today. I tried to clay it away but the colour is still there. Later, I tried to use Scratch-X to remove the colour and blemish, it's still there! Is it because the yellow sap has gone below the paint?
~One man’s opinion / observations ~
It would seem from your description that it has compromised the clear coat (it could be pine tree sap which is very acidic) do you have a solvent cleaner available (Megs ColorX, Klasse AIO, 3Ms?)
Are you using the ScratchX by hand (a pc with a damp foam pad and ScratchX is a little more aggressive)?
If that doesn’t work it would seem that something more abrasive is required (Megs DACP?)
I seem to be asking more questions than providing answers
“Contrary to what has already been posted I would certainly not recommend getting more aggressive. That advice is just completely wrong.
Think about it, once the contamination has penetrated below the surface there is really not much you can do without wearing away the surface in the process�
Mirrorfinishman- If you have hints, tips, or corrections to the above procedure, please post them. I’m always anxious to improve my technique
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
imported_mirrorfinishman
New member
TOGWT said:
Unless the vehicle is either repainted or you want to do further damage by wearing away the surface, there are no 'hints, tips, or corrections'.
"Think about it, once the contamination has penetrated below the surface there is really not much you can do without wearing away the surface in the process."
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Thanks for you insights
detailbarn
Professional Detailer
Frank you really don't believe that the contamination can be removed and the paint polished to remove "most" of the blemish?
I have only heard a few detailers swear that you can't polish defects out. Personally I feel that most defects can be removed if not completly atleast to some level. In turn making the paint surface look better. To say that it automaticly needs a re-paint is almost the same as saying there is no need to detail , just get a re-paint when the paint starts to fade.
I'm not flaming you I'm just very curious about you detailing prespective , could you explain your post?
Thanks
Doug Lucas
The Detail Barn
I have only heard a few detailers swear that you can't polish defects out. Personally I feel that most defects can be removed if not completly atleast to some level. In turn making the paint surface look better. To say that it automaticly needs a re-paint is almost the same as saying there is no need to detail , just get a re-paint when the paint starts to fade.
I'm not flaming you I'm just very curious about you detailing prespective , could you explain your post?
Thanks
Doug Lucas
The Detail Barn
imported_Greg1
New member
detailbarn said:
From my understanding, Frank doesn't believe that paint defects can be removed.
I agree with you however Doug, I think most of the defect can be safely removed by simply using the right tools and product. It is almost impossible to say over the internet however, to what degree can be removed. Just from the verbal description however, I would try some DACP or equivalent with a cutting pad to see how that does.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Yes, it is possible that the sap has gone below the paint.
Contrary to what has already been posted I would certainly not recommend getting more aggressive. That advice is just completely wrong.
Think about it, once the contamination has penetrated below the surface there is really not much you can do without wearing away the surface in the process.
__________________
FRANK CANNA
~One man’s opinion / observations ~
Quote from “How-To Remove Tar, Sap & Bugs� Author: David Bynon
TREE SAP
Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can easily scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol act as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.
If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, I discovered that hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound removes the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then I can go back and use mineral spirits to remove it. The light duty-buffing compound softens the sap so the mineral spirits or denatured alcohol can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, I always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
Contrary to what has already been posted I would certainly not recommend getting more aggressive. That advice is just completely wrong.
Think about it, once the contamination has penetrated below the surface there is really not much you can do without wearing away the surface in the process.
__________________
FRANK CANNA
~One man’s opinion / observations ~
Quote from “How-To Remove Tar, Sap & Bugs� Author: David Bynon
TREE SAP
Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can easily scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol act as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.
If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, I discovered that hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound removes the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then I can go back and use mineral spirits to remove it. The light duty-buffing compound softens the sap so the mineral spirits or denatured alcohol can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, I always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.
~Hope this helps~
Experience unshared; is knowledge wasted…/
justadumbarchitect * so i question everything*
imported_mirrorfinishman
New member
TOGWT said:
QUOTE: zey
"I tried to use Scratch-X to remove the colour and blemish, it's still there!"
Aren't we talking about the blemish that has appearantly penetrated below the surface?
Of course this is helpful information and I certainly wouldn't question Mr. Bynon recommendation.
TOGWT: Please tell us 'in your own words' how 'you' would remove a tree sap blemish that has penetrated the painted finish without wearing away the surface in the process.
Spilchy
New member
mirrorfinishman said:
Contrary to what was posted above, this advice is just completely wrong as well. What are you supposed to just live with a sap stain?
Zey, I am sure you have browsed the forum and have seen that literally thousands of Autopians use a product more agressive than Scratch X!
I would start off with a milder routine. I really like a product called Tarminator by Stoners. http://www.superiorcarcare.net/stontar.html It is safe for clear coats. You can try using that. Spritz it on, let it sit for a minute and lightly agitate with a soft cloth like an MF. If that doesn't work, I would try another "Bug and Tar" remover. Maybe other can chime in and offer their choices. Maybe your fellow Brits have a local product.
Next up the scale, I have found that paint cleaners are excellent in removing blemishes. I really like Meguiars Medallion Paint Cleaner. I also like Klasse AIO. Also, some basic cleaner waxes have enough solvents in them to get it out. Clearkote Moose Wax comes to mind. All of these can be bought via the internet and can be used by hand.
Even farther up the scale is the use of a machine like a PC
How confident are you with a buffer? Do you have any products stronger than Scratch X? Many, many people here use the PC with a compound pad and Meguiars DACP. When worked properly, this should do it.
Finally, there is wet sanding! I don't go there! (Yet!)
Whatever you do, go slowly, concentrate on that area and make sure you use the appropriate cloths and dont scrub.
I recently worked on a white Acura that was COVERED in tree sap. I washed, clayed, used DACP and a PC, Klasse AIO with a polish pad and then a wax. ALL GONE!
Scott P
New member
Wow...this thread is rated five stars? Will this madness ever end?
On topic, I think you are best off following SPilchy's advice above. A good cleaner wax should soften the sap up. Once it is of, you will most likely need to polisht he are to remove any remaining contaminants.
On topic, I think you are best off following SPilchy's advice above. A good cleaner wax should soften the sap up. Once it is of, you will most likely need to polisht he are to remove any remaining contaminants.
I've never had any luck using clay to remove tree sap, so it's not too surprising to me that it didn't come off with the clay.
For large 'blobs' of sap, to be honest, I've had the best luck scraping it off of the paint with a fingernail, and then polishing out the area where it was removed from.
Of course, this works best if the finish had a reasonably fresh coat of wax on it.
If that doesn't get the job done, then I'd try a rag soaked with mineral spirits, or Klasse AIO.
A picture may be worth more than a thousand words, if you could snap one and post it here.
For large 'blobs' of sap, to be honest, I've had the best luck scraping it off of the paint with a fingernail, and then polishing out the area where it was removed from.
Of course, this works best if the finish had a reasonably fresh coat of wax on it.
If that doesn't get the job done, then I'd try a rag soaked with mineral spirits, or Klasse AIO.
A picture may be worth more than a thousand words, if you could snap one and post it here.
