Hard water issues.

wannafbody said:
Kit car wash is pretty cheap but it works nearly as well as much more expensive washes.
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I've heard ppl complain about how kit is harsh to the paint it may remove waxes/sealants
 
wannafbody said:
Kit car wash is pretty cheap but it works nearly as well as much more expensive washes.
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Well, I don't plan to switch from my Griot's any time soon ;) but when I finally run out of my also-ran products I'll eventually need something cheap for wheels/wells/etc.
 
I have in-line sediment and soft water filters I use specifically for washing my cars. I purchased them years ago from Autogeek but the components can be sourced from local home improvement stores as well. I mounted them on my gate whch is next to the side entrance to my garage:



IMG_0443.jpg




While the sediment filter needs periodic replacement, the soft water media can be rejuvenated by simply soaking the cartridge in a salt solution (in a bucket). It does help but as Accumulator pointed out, there is still the potential for spotting although they won't be as "hard" as they would be without the filtration.



I also have a CRSpotless DIC-20 that I use for final rinsing which really does make a difference IMO/IME. The downside is the resin that needs replacement once the PPM level starts climbing. Whether the CRS system is worth it will depend on the individual user. ....and the life of the resin will depend on several factors (i.e. use, water quality, etc.).



Anyhow, the soft water filter I mentioned above may be a cheap alternative to at least help a bit with your problem. ....just trying to help kick around some ideas.
 
Biggestmexi said:
Any one use Distilled water?



should be the same as DI
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A guy on the corvette forum has a set-up using distilled water. He has a large plastic tub (maybe 15-20 gallons) and he put a plastic fitting on the bottom to which he connects a garden hose. The other end is attached to an electric pressure washer. He pours several gallons of distilled water into the tub (which may be higher than the pressure washer allowing gravity to feed the PW) and rinses with this.
 
RedlineIRL said:
I could use one of those. Does the resin just go into the tanks and that is what filters the sediments out? For those that have one, how ofter do you usually have to replace the resin?
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....there are cartridges inside those blue, screw-on enclosures. The cartridges have screw tops so you can discard the spent resin and refill it with fresh product. Here is CRS' explanation of the process:



Fundamentals of Deionization by Ion Exchange.



Deionization is a method used most often by laboratories to produce purified water on demand. All naturally-occurring water contains dissolved mineral salts. In solution, salts separate into positively-charged cations and negatively-charged anions. Deionization can reduce the amounts of these ions to very low levels through the process of ion exchange. Cations are removed by cation exchange resin. It replaces sodium, calcium, magnesium, and other cations with hydrogen ions (H+). This exchange produces acids which must be removed or neutralized by anion exchange resin. Two general types of anion resin are used for deionization: weak base resin and strong base resin. Weak base resin adsorbs strong acids, while strong base resin exchanges chloride, sulfate and alkaline anions for hydroxide ions (OH-). The hydrogen ions from the cation exchange process combine with the hydroxide ions from the anion exchange process to form water (HOH or H2O). Because the deionization process is so effective, the water quality is usually measured by the water's resistance to electric current (in OHM-cm). The end result is purified water that won't leave mineral deposits - water spots - on your car!
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As far longevity, it really depends on a number of factors including usage, water quality, etc. In this case the old saying "your mileage may vary" was never so true. Personally, I get roughly a dozen or so car washes and perhaps a couple "window washes" around my home.
 
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