Hand polishing question.

Changeling

New member
It's very obvious that whatever kind of tools you have there is a lot of area that can't be handled by them so you have to revert to hand polishing!



On the window posts, door handle, trim areas, whatever type close areas that can't be machine corrected how do the professionals approach these areas when a A+ finish is desired and especially when defects have to be removed.



What equipment (hand) do you use? For instance, I used to use a Hard gum eraser that was about 1.5x2.5x1.5 inches to sand difficult areas with wet/dry sand paper.

How do you guys (Professionals) approach these areas with the prevailing compounds/polishes normally used, or do you use wet/dry?

Changeling
 
Changeling said:
It's very obvious that whatever kind of tools you have there is a lot of area that can't be handled by them so you have to revert to hand polishing!



On the window posts, door handle, trim areas, whatever type close areas that can't be machine corrected how do the professionals approach these areas when a A+ finish is desired and especially when defects have to be removed.



What equipment (hand) do you use? For instance, I used to use a Hard gum eraser that was about 1.5x2.5x1.5 inches to sand difficult areas with wet/dry sand paper.

How do you guys (Professionals) approach these areas with the prevailing compounds/polishes normally used, or do you use wet/dry?

Changeling

Good question..I use Scratch X with a foam applicator but its not always 100 %
 
Changeling said:
Joe.p, I'm not talking about scratch X, I'm talking about the professional way to fix things correctly.

Changeling

i know not much help to you,

i was just stating one of the ways i have used to get in tight areas..this is why i stated it was a good question :chuckle:
 
Changeling said:
Joe.p, I'm not talking about scratch X, I'm talking about the professional way to fix things correctly.

Changeling



what's wrong with scratch-x?

it is one of the few that work well by hand and that is what you asked!
 
Changeling said:
Joe.p, I'm not talking about scratch X, I'm talking about the professional way to fix things correctly.

Changeling





Whats not pro about using scratchx?
 
I use mostly the same products that I like by machine; one of the things I like about the PI-III twins is that they work fine by hand. For real correction (e.g., fingernail scratches behind the door handles on Audis with very hard clear) I'll do the most serious work with 1z Ultra/Extra and terrycloth, then I switch to PI-III RC on MF and use that until the marring is gone (then follow up with milder stuff for the final finish).
 
I also use some of the same stuff by hand that I use with a machine, but I also have a lot of 4" pads that let me handle some areas that would be difficult with a larger pad. I got some ScratchX in a Meg's bundle a long time ago and don't see anything wrong with it. I don't use it very often, but when I have it seemed to work just fine. There is a recent Click and Brag where they used ScratchX to remove scratches from under a door handle:



http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/86094-03-4ruuner-silver.html



You can also cut up some old pads to use in specific areas by hand..... I've been quite creative in cutting some pads up to work areas by hand that are normally difficult to get to.



I'm also a firm believer in using what works best for me in a given situation, regardless of what others might think or use. If you were able to figure out how to use an eraser for a sanding block then you'll find a way to tackle those hard to reach areas by hand. One tool to consider is a Pad and Handle Kit for those times a 4" pad would fit but you want to work it by hand instead of a machine.
 
Well, I "thought/assumed" Scratch-X was a cover up type of product, not a polishing type agent.

I guess I should just keep my mouth shut till I thoroughly understand !



Changeling
 
Changeling said:
It's very obvious that whatever kind of tools you have there is a lot of area that can't be handled by them so you have to revert to hand polishing!



On the window posts, door handle, trim areas, whatever type close areas that can't be machine corrected how do the professionals approach these areas when a A+ finish is desired and especially when defects have to be removed.



What equipment (hand) do you use? For instance, I used to use a Hard gum eraser that was about 1.5x2.5x1.5 inches to sand difficult areas with wet/dry sand paper.

How do you guys (Professionals) approach these areas with the prevailing compounds/polishes normally used, or do you use wet/dry?

Changeling



In actual fact (depending on car model), virtually the whole car is machine polishable

Even the trim in some circumstances (depends on size)

Top of doors and a pillar etc can be done but if very narrow, my favourite hand pad is a double sided rectangular foam pad sold by pakshak and autopia car care

(red, white and blue colour)



Since I'm doing it by hand, I use alot of pressure and do horizontal and vertical passes then use no pressure at the end

I may cut up an old machine polishing pad into small pieces just for such tight spots
 
Accumulator said:
I use mostly the same products that I like by machine.



So do I; and concerning Scratch-X, just because it comes as a paste doesn't mean it works especially well because you use it by hand. I bought a tube when I was back in the U.S. a while back, and I was very disappointed with its results. It doesn't have much bite, dries too quickly, and is difficult to remove compared to many other products, IMHO.
 
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