Going to buy new products, need assitance
- Thread starter Mikeystang
- Start date
Mikey,
Removing scratches with a PC is very difficult.
Removing etched-in water spots with a PC is nearly impossible.
Removing swirls with a PC is possible... within reason.
My guess is that it's not the SFX products, provided that the ones you are using have some decent abrasiveness in them. It's probably a matter of process or a combination of the limitations of the machine and will power.
For removing most swirls with a PC, Steve's SSR2.5 should do the trick, if you are willing to work on them for a while. You simply need to be persistent, work the area until the swirls are nearly gone, and then step down in product/pad abrasiveness to remove a bit more, and then finish with a good final polish. Don't try and remove "all" the swirls with one product/pad combo.
If you detail a lot of cars, and have to deal with an occasional "beast", I highly recommend that you learn how to use a rotary buffer. However, even then, removing scratches can be difficult, and dangerous, and you still won't remove most of the etched-in water marks.
Good Luck
Mikeystang
LS1 KLR
yaa i think im goin to get a rotary buffer and practice it on a scrap mustang i have in the back yard.. hopefully i can build up skill then slowly work the use of the rotary buffer into my detailing process
Just a few comments.
1. Paint defect removal with a PC takes a long time. My friend that is proficient with a rotary will correct in 2 minutes what I spend 20 minutes working on. And I may not have the greatest of success after 20 minutes.
Disclaimer. I don't recommend using a rotary on your vehicle until you have become proficient with one.
2. It also takes quite a bit of pressure along with the 5 to 6 speed for me to get much done.
3. Keep in mind the fact that you don't remove the blemishes as much as you just bring the surrounding paint down to their level.
4. Contrary to what many people will say, I feel you can cause damage with an improper combination of pad and product and a PC. Heck, you can rub through the paint by hand if you use the right/wrong product.
5. Trying your product, pad and procedure in one area until you feel you have achieved the results you are expecting has always made more sense to me than doing the entire vehicle and then finding out you have done either too little or too much.
Charles
That is the correct approach! :bigups
If you can find somebody who is proficient with a rotary buffer to guide you a little bit... it is a big help.
I agree with Charles... a PC used improperly CAN damage paint. A while back, I won a couple of bets proving that point.
A rotary can damage paint... and a lot faster!
Coastal Eddie
Ambivalent
DCT is right.
Find a vehicle to practice on, get proficient with a rotary (wool pad), learn how to correct your own "mistakes" with the PC, and voila, you've got it.
Mikeystang
LS1 KLR
now i just need some insight on which rotary buffer to buy..
Coastal Eddie
Ambivalent
How far is Yankers from West Nyack?
Poorboy is a GD expert with a rotary, and I'm sure he will tutor you:drool:
Coastal Eddie
Ambivalent
My apologies for misspelling "Yonkers":hmmm:
I have two...
A Milwaukee 5460 and a Makita 9227.
Most folks prefer the Makita, because it is considerably lighter. I like them both. I use the heavier Milwaukee for heavy duty compounding, and I use the Maikita for medium work and final polishing.
I guess if I had to choose only one, I would probably take the Makita, as most polishing falls in the medium to final polishing range, and it will certainly do the heavy duty compounding/polishing if needed.
HTH
Mikeystang
LS1 KLR
We're not that far from each other and already plan on meeting up at a detail day :bigups
Sounds like the Makita would be very interesting.. Now ill start shopping around for a good price and make sure im ready financially, got a few credit card bills i gotta take care of first... thanx for takin the time to write that up!