GM Clear really that hard?

wannafbody said:
sometimes you just have to crank the rpms up to 2000 or 2200-but keep the pad moving.
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Agreed, on the Vettes I was up in the 2500 rpm range. I left holograms but I got the swirls out and the PC easily took the holograms out.
 
VaSuperShine said:
amf no offense but if the paint laughs at your rotary usage perhaps youre not using it correctly or working the product correctly. i work on gm paint more than any other and yes it is hard, but no i have not "needed" a rotary on any one of them regardless of defects.
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That's interesting. I did work for 4 GM dealerships and always used Wool/Rotary if it had any kind of defects what so ever. Very rarely did I opt for even a cutting foam pad. I suppose correction *could* be done by PC, but it seemed pointless in a high-volume application.
 
David Fermani said:
That's interesting. I did work for 4 GM dealerships and always used Wool/Rotary if it had any kind of defects what so ever. Very rarely did I opt for even a cutting foam pad. I suppose correction *could* be done by PC, but it seemed pointless in a high-volume application.
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many things could be deemed pointless when dealing in volume. fact of the matter is i have only used a rotary on a small handful of gm jobs ive done. for the most part that i remember i used the xmt line or 3m and don't recall all that many times needing a yellow pad. :nixweiss i guess some gm paints are different than others becuase as i stated. i have never experienced the "need" for a rotary while dealing with it.
 
I did a black 2002 Tahoe that had some pretty bad water spots and swirls, spider webbing or whatever you want to call the results from machine car washes. I used Malco Perfex (medium compound) on an Edge yellow pad via Makita. It needed more, should have used wool and gone back with foam. Result was 70% of the issues removed, Malco finished down LSP ready and I topped with a carnuba wax. This was a job for a friend that was more concerned for the thickness of the clear, than getting it 100% - and it was a cheapie so cutting out a step helped me too. The cutomer was happy with it. Honestly, I felt it should look a bit better, and in the future I'll hit it with wool then foam. I don't have a paint guage but I'll bet the ranch that I didn't remove squat off the clear with that foam.
 
You know what product really works well for me on the rotary with GM hard clear is Compound and Blue Moose by Clearkote. I used that on my dad's Buick and will probably be using it tonight on a Camaro. I use it along with wool pads and my Makita.
 
Hey Danase, I've never tried any of the ClearKote products - maybe I will after I try all of the Malco brand. What kind of wool pad do you use? And do you do a wool step followed by foam? I can finish almost perfect with wool (blue Edge) but I still use foam either rotary or PC to get rid of the little wool swirls. I have found that the 600-900-1200 or 1500 - 900RPM method keeps the buffer trails away!
 
Danase said:
You know what product really works well for me on the rotary with GM hard clear is Compound and Blue Moose by Clearkote. I used that on my dad's Buick and will probably be using it tonight on a Camaro. I use it along with wool pads and my Makita.
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Look for my order in the next few days Danase. :2thumbs:



Michael Laughton
 
swirlnuts said:
I use a schlegel white wool pad, dont know a part number or anything off hand. i get them from a guy hat comes around on a truck. they have a real thick tuft of wool on em. They are the only ones ive ever used so i cant compare them to anything else. i have heard 3m makes a good pad to but they are pricey. i dont know what kind of pads would have come with your buffer but chances are its some nasty twisted wool and if it is, it could possibly leave some swirls that 106 ff cant take out.



when it comes to amount of product i generally use more with the wool than i do with the foam. today i did a tahoe and did the fender in two parts and used about an 8 inch line of polish where if it was foam and 106ff it would have only been about half as much. Also, maybe you already know this but it is a good idea to spur or clean wool very often, i often spur after each section i buff. hope this helps some. let me know how it goes.
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+1 on the spur for wool pads and nylon brush to clean foam pads.
 
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