Glazes?

A

apoirier594

New member
Well I hve a black f150. A few months ago I tried polishing a fender and hood with Megs. MF kit ad a 7424. Took me hours and well the swirls came back because my dad had newspapers all over my hood doing something and rubbed it in, then he washed it! 0.o Never again, haha



Well seems like I now have water spots on my hood with all this rain then sunshine coming, idk if I wanna polish it again cause it might just come back. So what are some good glazes? I was thinking of



Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze is a final step auto glaze to enhanced the gloss prior to wax application. Get a show car shine with Meguiars #7 Show Car but not sure.



I want it to hide water spots and like swirls, how long do these typically last and whats a good wax/glaze combo? Thanks, never used a glaze before
 
Don't know you, don't know your age, don't know much of anything regarding what you actually did, but it doesn't sound quite correct.



So, let me attempt to explain what a "glaze" in regards to a vehicle's finish is today.



Women use "make-up" to "enhance" their facial skin, following me?

When they "wash" their faces, the "make-up" comes off.

A "glaze" is short term "make-up" for a paint surface, when you wash the vehicle, or it has some "sun-temperature" exposure, it "evaporates" from the paint surface.

A "glaze" is basically a mixture of mineral spirits and some rare earths, which provides a temporary gloss and the rare earths fill in the low spots, etc.

When, in a short amount of time, (one day or so) you have a surface that is the same as you started with.

The "water spots" are either deposits of minerals from water which have penetrated and "locked" into the porosity of the clearcoat or are even worse, which is an "etching" , or "eating away" of a small portion of the clearcoat.

In either case, the clearcoat must be "leveled", within reason (Ford Motor Co's guide line is that no more than .3 mil (3/10th of a mil) may be removed without compromising the UV protection portion of the clear coat, which is the most "dense" portion of the clear.

So, "you can not hide the spots or the swirls, for more than a very short period of time".

A correction of these issues must be done.

Suggest you seek out a true professional, with an electronic paint thickness gauge and one who has years of experience in doing professional work and has "references" from long time clients if you wish to resolve this concern.

Grumpy
 
I have a black car. Water spots are her bane. I know well the problem you describe. It rains. The sun comes out. Voila! Water spots. And if you leave them for 24 hours or more, they have become a "permanent" part of the car's finish.



Some people have had good luck using a vinegar/water solution on the water spots, but this only seems to work if the solution is applied fairly soon after the spots have appeared, before the minerals have etched into the paint.



I have had fairly good success using Duragloss 501 on my water spots. I wash and dry the car, and then using a foam applicator I rub the 501 fairly vigorously over the spots. More often than not it removes the spots. 501 is a paint cleaner that leaves behind sealant protection. But if the water spots have etched into the paint, then as Ron has mentioned, you'll need to correct the paint with a polish or compound.



Good luck!
 
It might be very helpful to explain what you did when you corrected the fender and hood initially - products used (machine, pad, polish) and how long you worked it.



ETA: if you get it well corrected, then you might look into having some Opticoat put on it - will give you some margin for error in the future and the water shedding abilities should help some with the water spots.

also, if you want a temporary cover up for time or cash reasons (back to Ron's make up analogy) look at Prima Amigo - will do just a tiny bit of correction and will cover well until you are ready to tackle correction or have someone do it.
 
apoirier594 said:
Well I hve a black f150...



Well seems like I now have water spots on my hood with all this rain then sunshine coming..
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There are different kinds of "water spots"; some are deposits on top of the paint and others are depressions/etching "burned" into the paint.



Remove the former with a chemical (and perhaps clay), remove/reduce the latter with abrasive polishing.



..idk if I wanna polish it again cause it might just come back...
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Unless you can keep things reasonably marring-free, there's not much point in doing a serious correction.



So what are some good glazes? I was thinking of..[M07]..
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M07 is OK but it's old-tech and IMO really better suited for use on single stage paints. It's not all that user-friendly (and I've used it since forever). If you want to try something like that which is commonly available OTC and reasonably user-friendly, you might try Meguiar's M09 Swirlmark Remover V2.0. It doesn't really do much/any "removing" but it fills and conceals and is easier to use than M07.



Others to consider include Autoglym Super Resin Polish (an AIO that acts like a glaze), Bilt Hamber AutoBalm (never tried it but I hear it's incredible), and something I *really* like that's hard to find- 1Z WaxPolishSoft.



An old stand-by is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Griot's now has a Paint Glaze that's supposed to be OK.



There are others like Black Hole, Red Moose Glaze, and [who knows what]..but I don't really know anything about those.



I want it to hide water spots and like swirls, how long do these typically last and whats a good wax/glaze combo? Thanks, never used a glaze before
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I dunno about hiding the water spots. If they're just deposits, remove them with a chemical and clay. If they're etched into the clear, neutralize them with a chemical so they don't get worse and maybe try to live with them unless you want to do some heavy compounding/polishing/leveling.



At best, glazes/etc. will fill some minor imperfections and make such flaws a bit less obvious. But this only goes so far, so don't expect miracles.



The rule-of-thumb is that glazes last as long as the wax that's on top of them, but I've had "oily-type fillers" that dissipated *under* healthy wax so flaws "came back" even though the wax was still OK. So I lean towards "clay/solids-type fillers" instead as those *generally* last about as long as the wax topper.



For that topper, I'd use a paste wax from Collinite, probably 476S.



But again, don't expect miracles. Black will only look so-so unless you really do polish out the majority of flaws and then keep it that way, and yeah....that's a tall order for a real-world vehicle! Not impossible, but very, very tough.
 
akimel said:
I have a black car. Water spots are her bane. I know well the problem you describe. It rains. The sun comes out. Voila! Water spots. And if you leave them for 24 hours or more, they have become a "permanent" part of the car's finish.
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Do you still get waterspots using a carnauba? I've found I have way less issues if I frequently use a carnauba in the summer. For winter, it doesn't seem to matter much as I don't have nearly as much of a spotting issue.
 
Thanks for the replies.



First time I polished it I used the Megs, MF polishing Kit and a PC7424XP. I got all the swirls out and didn't have any water spots. I would wax it once I month with OTC Megs NXT 2.0 and sometime P21 100%. I like that wax(NXT) because it acts like a filler, so I'm looking for something like that but would "fill" a bit more. I took a few photos of the water spots. I haven't tried claying yet but they won't wash off. I noticed them at beginning of this week. Well it has been raining on and off and pollen just came back randomly for one week, so I decided to wait till this weekend to wash it. They have always come off in past but not this time.



I want to wait to polish the whole truck till I get a flex cause a PC just takes to long, I don't like how much it slows down(I know its to prevent burning). So I want a glaze to clean her up till then



So I'll clay this week and pray the spots come off, if that doesn't work I'll try DG501. I'm thinking of going with this now, everyone seems to like it



Autowerkes Exclusive :: Bilt Hamber Auto Balm :: 2008 :: Shop



Here is a decent pic of my hood and "water spots". (I brought down the contrast and upped exposer to make spots more visible)





DSC_0319.jpg
 
Dan said:
Do you still get waterspots using a carnauba? I've found I have way less issues if I frequently use a carnauba in the summer. For winter, it doesn't seem to matter much as I don't have nearly as much of a spotting issue.
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Yes. During the non-winter months I always use carnauba waxes on her.
 
apoirier594- I bet you'll like how the AutoBalm works for you. I wonder if you could even top it with the NXT if you apply the latter very gently...IMO the whole "NXT's cleaners" thing is vastly overstated; I've applied it over filler-stuff without issues.
 
The only glaze I use is CG ez-creme. It applies super fast by machine and leaves the surface super slick. Some filling but not much - probably not enough for what you are trying to cover but hard to say without seeing it.



I would skip the glaze. For me, glaze is basically an extra just for fun step. Leaves the surface perfectly flat and smooth for a few weeks. I always top my glaze with wax. Contrary to conventional wisdom, I think of it more as a just for the car show day step rather than a filling step. If you want to fill and wax in one step, and it sounds like you do, go with a heavy filling wax like autobalm.
 
Do you park or drive by sprinklers? Typically water spots come back/etch themselves back in from ground/city water because it's the minerals that get left behind after the water evaporates. Rain water doesn't *normally* leave water spots because it is, for the most part, free of minerals since it's evaporated moisture that doesn't carry anything with it, however air pollution may pollute rain water as well and cause damage to your paint.
 
SpoolinNoMore said:
Do you park or drive by sprinklers? Typically water spots come back/etch themselves back in from ground/city water because it's the minerals that get left behind after the water evaporates. Rain water doesn't *normally* leave water spots because it is, for the most part, free of minerals since it's evaporated moisture that doesn't carry anything with it, however air pollution may pollute rain water as well and cause damage to your paint.
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I don't really drive by any sprinklers, my neighbor has one but I doubt it can reach my truck. I park under a tree, and when it rains all this crap falls on my trucks and seems to leave spots the next day when sun comes out.



Thanks Accumulator, I should be ordering it today or tomorrow, hopefully get it next week. Once I use it I'll post here
 
SON1C said:
why wouldnt a glaze last if topped with a sealant and nuba or even just a nuba
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Leaving aside the way that many glazes don't play nice with sealants (hey, some do these days so it's becoming less of an issue).. the glaze often *does* last just fine if "sealed in" by a subsequently applied LSP.



But repeating what I posted earlier on this thread: not always though, especially with glazes that rely on oils for their filling. I've had concealed marring "reappear" even though the LSP on top was still in great shape; the oils dissipated somehow...like "through the LSP" or something...and the marring reappeared.
 
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