Glare Infinity plus to remove orange peel?

Flashtime said:
That should never been done on factory finishes.
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i have done it before with no negative effects. i was just very careful and it was to remove deep scrathes. most orange peel on factory paint jobs is in the color more than the clear. f its a repaint/custom paint then i can see it being a clear coat issue.



BTW to the OP, the pic in that article you linked looks the same.
 
advs1 said:
i have done it before with no negative effects. i was just very careful and it was to remove deep scrathes. most orange peel on factory paint jobs is in the color more than the clear. f its a repaint/custom paint then i can see it being a clear coat issue.



BTW to the OP, the pic in that article you linked looks the same.
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I have to disagree with you and your statement about Orange peel. It is in the clear.



I see your in Whittier. I was born at Whitier Pres. My parents own the Uptown Gym.
 
How do you think we, who do this for a living get rid of deep imperfections????
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To what level are you sanding? dead flat? what sandpaper grits do you use?

How much material are you removing?



i have done it before with no negative effects. i was just very careful and it was to remove deep scrathes. most orange peel on factory paint jobs is in the color more than the clear. f its a repaint/custom paint then i can see it being a clear coat issue.
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It's in the clear. And negative effects can show down the road.



A paint thickness gage should be a must have tool. Especially when correcting

factory finishes (more so on high end cars). Here's a few great explanations:



Automotive Paint Thickness Gages

Paint Gages, Paint Meters, Mil Gages for measuring Paint Thickness on Automotive Cars, Trucks and Vehicles.

Clear Coat Restoration - Jason's Automotive Detailing Spa



But the readings only tell you the total paint thickness & not just the clear.

I heard that there is gage to measure the clear only...



A customer of mine decided to sand and buff his new Chevy Colorado

because of the massive factory orange peel. Later he realized it was the

wrong thing to do and now keeps it sealed and waxed religiously.



Not trying to bash anyone. Just pointing out something of interest/concern

as it can be very costly to refinish a vehicle.
 
Flashtime said:
Not trying to bash anyone. Just pointing out something of interest/concern as it can be very costly to refinish a vehicle.
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Now if this was a kitchen remodeling message board and someone asked this same question, I would understand your concern. But we are on Autopia man!!!!:D:D:D:D:D



We sand because that is the only solution sometimes in order to improve the paint.



BTW, have you looked at some of the C&B???? Lots of sanding info/pictures

 
Ok, i take it back when i said "never." For making serious corrections,

sanding (lightly at that) is probably the only way to go. But to completely

remove factory orange peel by sanding it dead flat is asking for trouble.



Where is the C&B??
 
Flashtime said:
Ok, i take it back when i said "never." For making serious corrections,

sanding (lightly at that) is probably the only way to go. But to completely

remove factory orange peel by sanding it dead flat is asking for trouble.



Where is the C&B??
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I see what you mean - to sand the entire car. Right?



Look for RickRack or rydawg post - their last few were new repaints and complete sand job by the body shop. Amzing results by those to rotary masters.
 
He means the pro before & after forum. I think you guys may be talking about different things. Thomas is referring (I believe) to sanding out deep scratches, which is very common and works well on factory finish when done correctly. Flashtime seems to be referring to sanding the entire car flat to eliminate orange peel. Correct me if I am wrong. I do agree that on an OEM finish sanding flat can be detrimental to the paint in the long term (and sometimes the short term). Of course on a re-spray it's an entirely different thing. The recent "before & after" threads from Rick and Ryan are on re-sprayed cars.
 
Picus said:
He means the pro before & after forum. I think you guys may be talking about different things. Thomas is referring (I believe) to sanding out deep scratches, which is very common and works well on factory finish when done correctly. Flashtime seems to be referring to sanding the entire car flat to eliminate orange peel. Correct me if I am wrong. I do agree that on an OEM finish sanding flat can be detrimental to the paint in the long term (and sometimes the short term). Of course on a re-spray it's an entirely different thing. The recent "before & after" threads from Rick and Ryan are on re-sprayed cars.
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I think it is crazy to want to sand the entire car, but it has been done and on top of that the guy polished it out with a PC! it was a Lexus IS250 in England. He did a very thorough write up on detailingworld. His username is singh or Mrsingh. He has posted pictures of the car since and still was looking just fine. :goodjob:goodjob:goodjob



So I think it can be done safely.



As far as I know Astons come with 11 layers of paint. 2 of those are clear. So next time you can go at iton an AM! :D:D:D
 
tdekany said:
I think it is crazy to want to sand the entire car, but it has been done and on top of that the guy polished it out with a PC! it was a Lexus IS250 in England. He did a very thorough write up on detailingworld. His username is singh or Mrsingh. He has posted pictures of the car since and still was looking just fine. :goodjob:goodjob:goodjob



So I think it can be done safely.



As far as I know Astons come with 11 layers of paint. 2 of those are clear. So next time you can go at iton an AM! :D:D:D
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I remember that. I am not in any way saying it can't be done, or even that it can't be done safely; I am saying that it will require very careful sanding (which of course we would do), and that even *with* very careful sanding you may still have issues with thinning clearcoat in a few years. Most people don't keep their cars long so maybe they won't care? :) I do know that for me when someone asks me to sand a factory finish I usually try to avoid it, but on a re-spray I'm all for it.
 
I just have to add, wetsanding a factory clearcoat can and is a very sought-after solution for very nice cars to look even better than showroom perfect.



We are not wetsanding original 1986 Ford Tempos, or 1988 Dodge Shadow. Those should not be wetsanded.



But basically any car can be LIGHTLY wetsanded to remove the majority (only blocksanding, of course) of the "peaks" of the orangepeel.



This creates a glass-smooth finish with almost zero paint removal, compared to the clearcoats overall thickness.



Then compounding and polishing after and its glass smooth paint.



I would never charge less than $800 for a full wetsanding. Did it once for $400 and I regretted it DREADFULLY! Took me about approx 15 hours total.
 
I have done numerous wetsands on stock paints in the past. On older cars it was much easier, but on some of the newer paints it is a lot tougher. Most newer paints have too much OP and way too many peaks and galleys and are very broad in measuerment. There has been a few people lately that want their new cars wetsanded and unfortunately there was too much difference within the peaks and galleys. It could be done on some of these newer cars, but I honestly wouldn't suggest it because of the lower quality of some of the newer paint systems. Nothing will happen during it, but in 3-5 years paint failure will speed up. A lot of the newer paints are not designed to be perfect but it can be done. Heck, a lot of them do not even like to be polished.



That's why I use so much IPA (alcohol), so I can get the car drunk and take advantage of it.:laugh:



If a customer doesn't mind spending a few thousand, and sign a long term contract, then I'll do it.
 
It's not just the orange peel either. I saw a black Yukon with poor color coverage

in a few spots. From the looks of it (i paint), it wasn't resprayed either.

GM being in financial crisis, they must be skimping out everywhere. For Chryslers,

might as well sand and buff as their paint doesn't seem to last anyways...



rydawg,



Been checking out some of the work you've done for a bodyshop. The custom

G35 came out killer! Also the reason why i joined this site; to be more efficient

in polishing out my own paint jobs. For me, to sand and buff out that coupe

would take over 25 hours easy (depending on choice of clear and sanding steps).

Maybe next time, if you can get more info on the exact clear they use, that

would help a lot! I've got a few tips on doing minor bumper repairs for ya. :)
 
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