Glad I found you guys. I Need Help!

O

Old Guys Rule

New member
I've been searching this site for a few days and am impressed how friendly, knowledgable and helpful people are here.



My college Hot Rod got kicked out of the garage when I got married. Not a factory paint job, it was re-painted in the early 90's, but it still looks good and is in good shape except for some water spots that I tried to get rid of with some "NU-FINISH" I had laying around the garage.



After using the 'NU-FINISH", there was a cloudy, hazy looking film to the paint that looked almost like powder that "3M One Step CLEANER WAX" could not get rid of.



I tried several other things but the only thing that reduced the cloudy , hazy look was some stuff called "TR3 Resin Glaze".



Here are my questions:

1- Would SONUS SFX 1 and SFX 3 help me in this situation?



2- If SONUS wouldn't help, what could I use and do that would fix this?



3- (TOTALY UN-RELATED) When you guys type PC; Is that short for POLISHING

COMPUOND?



Thanks for any advice and help.
 
oh boy . . .



if I were you . ..



i would strip every LSP you put on there off, you could clay with a medium grade clay or better off using some alcohol and distilled water spray over the whole car a few times to strip the nufinish, tr3 and any left over cleaner wax.



(see atopia secret decoder ring) PC = porter cable dual action polisher, can be used for compounding, polishing and liquid surface protectants (LSP's, aka waxes, sealants)



the PC is a very safe and user friendly polisher, you should invest in one if you have some money to burn . . . (provided you dont already have one)



your sonius sfx is a fantastic polishing system (never used it myself, but read other threads on the product using the search feature on thie website and you will find good things about it.) You may not need the no. 1, as it is a more agressive polish.(depending on the swirils and hazing on your finish - if its in great shape just use no. 3 sfx to shine the paint up and eliminate super fine swirils.) Striping your LSP's, polishing and then putting on a quality sealant like Klasse or Werkstatt, or even a carnuba wax like P21S or Megiars Mirror Glaze no. 26 hi tech yellow wax will give you the desired results if applied correctly (there are far to many awesome products to list, i just threw out some popular items, but you will find the two LSP's you used are not very popular amognst autopians) You said its a hot rod . . . if its a dark color you will appriciate a carnuba LSP as opposed to a sealant, more depth and warmth to the finish, but wont last as long...... Or you could go Autopia style on your finish, and first use a sealant for maximum protection, and then follow with a carnuba over the sealant after it has cured. That is the prefered method for most of us here.



you posted a broad question(s) . . . . perhaps my advice will point you in the right direction.



read the threads on this forum to death... before you buy new products get oppinions from the members here by starting a new thread or searching for that topic/product - you will probably find more information than you need. . . .



Its what I did, and now when I buy products I know what to expect, and have yet to be dissapointed.
 
Old Guys Rule said:
Here are my questions:

1- Would SONUS SFX 1 and SFX 3 help me in this situation?



2- If SONUS wouldn't help, what could I use and do that would fix this?



3- (TOTALY UN-RELATED) When you guys type PC; Is that short for POLISHING

COMPUOND?
Click to expand...
1 - SFX-1 is a moderately strong polish that will handle most swirls, but generally isn't strong enough for deep swirls or scratches (at least, not in a single application). SFX-2 will handle very light swirls, most waterspots (as long as they aren't severely etched), and other light marring. SFX-3 is a very fine finishing polish, and doesn't do much as far as paint correction. IMO, if you were only going to pick up two of the Sonus polishes, get SFX-1 and SFX-2.



2 - Given your description of your paint, I'd say SFX-2 would be the first thing I'd try from the Sonus lineup, and if that doesn't work, I'd step up to SFX-1. While I like the Sonus polishes quite a bit, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them, just about any polishes of similar aggressiveness should do the job. My current non-Sonus favorites are polishes from Hi-Temp that can be found at Top of the Line. Optimum polishes (available from Danase) also get good reviews, but I don't have any real experience with them (need to try out my samples). I'm sure you'll get some recommendations on some other polish lines later on in this thread, too.



3 - PC stands for "Porter-Cable", in particular, the Porter-Cable 7424 dual-action (orbital) buffer.



:welcome aboard!



Tort
 
i second the notion for optimum, :2thumbs: i didnt want to blow you away with product suggestions, if you want a good polish that quite a few of us use menzurna and optimum are a winner.



good advice tortoise . . :werd: :
 
Hey guys, "Thanks" for pointing me in the right direction and clueing me in on the "Decoder Ring"... I thought you were joking about it at first.



How long should the sealant "cure" if I take the route to wax after sealing?
 
depends, most Klasse users prep the surface with Klasse All in One, appply a coat of KSG, then wait 8 to even 24 hours before reapplying the Klasse Sealant Glaze. If you are considering other sealants try and find a thread on it or hopefully someone will answer your question specifically. Personally, I use Klasse products, and have never tried other sealants, but there are plenty avalible that work very well . .
 
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