Getting started with a Porter Cable?

K

Kalon

New member
Never used one at all. How hard is it to learn?



This is what I know:



You have to be very careful while working. Use blue painters tape (right?)



One panel at a time. Different pads for different tasks...polishing vs. waxing. Take your time.





So..do I have to work in a garage? Can this be done outside? I don't have a garage.



I have a 2008 Nissan Altima in Majestic Blue and I wanna make people be like wow everytime they see it.



And I also know that you have to wash the car in a certain way to keep the condition you want.





I am looking for 75-80% correction. I assume this can't be done by hand.



Car has been washed about 30 times since I've had it last august. I bought the car brand new. Has been through a auto car wash once..I didn't know and I was very pissed when i found out my sister did it.



Lastly...if this is very hard to do I am willing to find a professional. I live in the New Orleans area if there are any pros in this area.
 
To me, using a Porter Cable came easy because I came from using a rotary all the time. I was easy to get the hang of it. Your best be would be to practice on some junk parts before you try it on your car and that way you can see how the machine feels and you can figure out how you want to approach your car.
 
i never used one until I got mine for xmas this past year. I used it on my girlfriends explorer and just learned how to use it. You really cant do any harm with it unless you hit the backing plate on something.



Just try not to:

-lift the pad off of the surface before is stops spinning and jiggling otherwise you will sling product everywhere :wall and get it all on yourself and everywhere in the surrounding area you are working.

-when you put product on the pad, dont start the machine until the pad it on the vehicle (see above for what happens)





dont work the product to a dry buff, where it dries up, you want the product to still be a little wet when you remove it.



the only thing that you should let dry are waxes and sealants.
 
I watched a couple of the videos. This is what I noticed.



The guy put the product in the center of the pad, and didn't use the whole bottle he used a sparse amount. Then he spread the product on the door panel using the PC very lightly while it was off...evenly spread.



Then he used a medium speed i think to work it in and a higher speed towards the end. (i think he called it letting it break down?)



and used a mf towel to buff off.



does that sound right? and he used both hands while it was on and seemed to be very careful.
 
[quote name='Kalon']I watched a couple of the videos. This is what I noticed.



The guy put the product in the center of the pad, and didn't use the whole bottle he used a sparse amount. Then he spread the product on the door panel using the PC very lightly while it was off...evenly spread.



Then he used a medium speed i think to work it in and a higher speed towards the end. (i think he called it letting it break down?)



QUOTE]





depends on what polishes you use. Some have dimenishing abrasives that do break down as you work them. Some have newer smat abrasives that are uniform throughout the working process, you stop working the product when the defect is removed. This is with Megs products btw
 
Using a PC is 'almost' idiot-proof.



I was apprehensive the first time that I touched the PC to the paint . . . but even my first attempt so far surpassed what I was able to do by hand, that I was hooked.



I would NEVER consider doing a car by hand anymore.



As others have stated, it is almost impossible to damage the paint with the PC unless you use a VERY abrasive polish (Rubbing Compound), or you drop the PC on the hood.



Go ahead and buy the PC, get a decent polish (Menzerna, Megs, 1Z, etc), and work away. You certainly won't regret the purchase.
 
guys,

im new like the original poster.



Looking for a typical refresh of my 2006 BMW M3. paint is in good shape, just some water etching from water spots and some swirl marks from poor wash technique.



From what i've understood, the Orange pad will be plenty enough for what i need (no deep scratches etc). does everyone agree this is a good starting point?



also, seems most seem to favor the 105/205 combo. is there any that rival this combo?
 
a white pad (if Lake country) might work too, less aggressive



Meguiars M83/M80 combo has been replaced by a lot of people by 105/205 and a lot of people just say jump into the 105 when it may not be needed ( me included) where a less aggressive polish will work just fine



Megs Ultimate Compound is not as aggressive as 105 and normally finishes out fantastic where a finishing polish is not needed, sometimes it is hence the 205.



M80 is a fantastic product, dont underestimate it. It is only a 4 on the aggressiveness scale but any polish/compound can have more bite if you use a more aggressive pad
 
Kalon said:
I am looking for 75-80% correction. I assume this can't be done by hand.
Click to expand...



You can but it will take a while. IMHO the best way is to handle anything that fails the five foot test by hand (Meg's UC (Strong)/KIT Scratch Out (Gentle)), and then use the PC for working a lighter polish over the surface of the panel.



Trying to polish out deeper scratches is IMHO counter productive since lets say a scratch goes 80% deep into the clear coat. Is it really a good idea to polish it out completely?



Oh, and do not use the PC on non-metalic parts untill you are more experienced, heat can build up very quickly leading to sudden paint failure. Better to do those things by hand, especially as the paint on the flexable plastic/fiberglass panels is different (softer/more flexable) than on metal body panels.



After you are done polishing, just about any wax will look excellent.
 
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