Guys it was the Firestone ATX on the F150, Ranger and Broncos that were the last problem that I can remember. A lot of Goodyear Wrangler Radials were and still are being put on that dont hae the sidewall plies and give/gave some problems. Just buy tires that have a more solid sidewall than a 3 ply tread and 1 ply sidewall.
Getting New Tires
- Thread starter Beemerboy
- Start date
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
Randal, you are correct. Firestone was the blowout tire on the Ranger and Bronco's. GoodYear had the ride quality issues on the 150's and Expy's. We paid out warranty dollars every time we turned around on the GoodYears. You didn't hear about this one because people weren't dying.
Typically in a warranty situation the retailer eats the warranty adjustment. When Firestone's problem became common knowledge they began to buy the warranty back. We of course had to go through channels and get the adjusted tire back to Firestone in order to collect. In the long run we lost far more money on the GoodYear's than the Firestone's. BFG does have the best (stiffest) sidewall of the bunch. Michelin's sidewall isn't as stiff but offers the best ride of those I've mentioned. As long as you aren't wheelin' in the rocks Michelin's sidewalls are dandy.
Typically in a warranty situation the retailer eats the warranty adjustment. When Firestone's problem became common knowledge they began to buy the warranty back. We of course had to go through channels and get the adjusted tire back to Firestone in order to collect. In the long run we lost far more money on the GoodYear's than the Firestone's. BFG does have the best (stiffest) sidewall of the bunch. Michelin's sidewall isn't as stiff but offers the best ride of those I've mentioned. As long as you aren't wheelin' in the rocks Michelin's sidewalls are dandy.
JohnHenry
New member
Ever since I stopped buying retreads in 1968 (do they do retreads any more?) I have never been satisfied with anything but Michelins. I don't know why, but Goodyears, BFG's, Dunlops, Hankooks, you name it, have given me problems.
I don't care what your DD truck is... try some Michelins. (not affiliated in any way) LTX AT2's if you're on and off road, LTX M&S for mostly highway (but really good in the muck also.) I have Pilots on the Matrix.
FWIW
I don't care what your DD truck is... try some Michelins. (not affiliated in any way) LTX AT2's if you're on and off road, LTX M&S for mostly highway (but really good in the muck also.) I have Pilots on the Matrix.
FWIW
black bart
New member
For those who don't know it Micheline has owned BFG and now makes them.
Not hard to figure out why Michelin gets high mileage typical tire new has
13/32 tread
My Micheline LTX had 19/32 so after 25,000 miles they still have what a new tire is of other brands.
I don't know what I'm going to do when I need to replace the BFG-G Force tires on my Corvette they were awesome tires but BFG has discontinued them .
At $330.00 per tire sales was slow so they dropped them.
No other manufacture makes anything that compares to them so I'm hoping some one steps up and starts making a extreme performance tire or I may need to pull a couple plug wires. :wall
Not hard to figure out why Michelin gets high mileage typical tire new has
13/32 tread
My Micheline LTX had 19/32 so after 25,000 miles they still have what a new tire is of other brands.
I don't know what I'm going to do when I need to replace the BFG-G Force tires on my Corvette they were awesome tires but BFG has discontinued them .
At $330.00 per tire sales was slow so they dropped them.
No other manufacture makes anything that compares to them so I'm hoping some one steps up and starts making a extreme performance tire or I may need to pull a couple plug wires. :wall
sullysdetailing
New member
Tire Rack if good.
Get Nitto All Terrian ir BGF All Terrian I have had both on my truck great tires. I have BFG Mud-Terrian now and I love them
black bart
New member
Both would be a good choice if he did not live it Kalifornia.
He probably need just a AT they would be good in rain and light off road use good all round tire.
If you buy from tire rack keep in mind that on top of that good price you will need to pay someone for mounting and balancing.
Since everything is high in Arnold's Kingdom that could be a significant amount of extra $$$$$$
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
stick with PepBoys Dave ... for what you do and where you drive, expensive tires just don't make sense :crazy2:
JohnHenry
New member
What do you mean, Steve? I've heard Michelins called "The Poor Man's Truck Tire." You know... buy Michelins, then you're a poor man!
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
lol ... I like Michelin's too but Dave's truck is a local DD and it only cost him $1k ... I doubt he will be putting $500 more just into tires :notme:
black bart
New member
I think of tires like a local motorcycle dealer told people when they ask about a cheap helmet. He said it is your head you decide what it is worth. 
:wow:
:wow:
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
MAST (Michelin American Small Tire) has owned the BFG label for at least 15 years, along with several others. BFG's tires are still made in BFG plants. Michelin Tire Co. (the French guys) is the majority but not soul owner of MAST.
Here's are a couple of pieces of worthless trivia for those who might be interested. Did you know that Sears and Roebuck is how Michelin got its foot hold in America? Sears began selling their radial tires in 1966. There were few other radials on the road at that time.
I have toured several major tire plants, Pirelli/Armstrong being the coolest. Michelin will not only not allow spectators in their plants if you happen to work for them, there are 8 separate job classifications in the tire plant. Employees of the plant are only allowed to have worked in only 3 of those 8 positions. They guard their processes very closely.
I think of tires like a local motorcycle dealer told people when they ask about a cheap helmet. He said it is your head you decide what it is worth.
Tires and brakes if you value your life. Many consider the engine to be the most important part of any vehicle. If the engine is broken and doesn't run you won't die. If tires are brakes are broken you may die.
You just surprised the heck out of me, by telling me you were still buying retreads in '68. I was pretty sure that truck tires (not p/u) were still available as re-treads -- though I believe that DOT rules don't allow their use on steering wheels.
My Great-Grandfather, Grandfather, and Dad all worked in the tire business. And so I have always subscribed to this same mantra. But as you mentioned, if the engine doesn't run the necessity of those two components is rendered mute. :rofl
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
JohnHenry
New member
Hey, MC. Oh sure... trailers still use retreads. That's where all those damn "alligators" come from. You know, the treads that are littering the Interstates that the guy in front of you hits at 87 mph!
Hankook DynaPro ATM RF10 tires listed by size
check out these tires, they are new as of last year, the reviews have been nothing but great about them, they are real decent priced too!
installed on my Sierra (35x12.5x17) for under $1,000
check out these tires, they are new as of last year, the reviews have been nothing but great about them, they are real decent priced too!
installed on my Sierra (35x12.5x17) for under $1,000
LikeaRock
...Dreaming on an E92....
Dave-
Go to America's Tire by Coddingtown and talk to Mike Allen, he's like average sized and kinda built with a basically shaved head. He's my neighbors son. Super nice guy and tell him Dolan "That guy that lives around the corner from your dad with that lifted Jeep" sent you in for a deal :cheers:
I plan on getting my new tires there when I get the funds. They're good people down there
Go to America's Tire by Coddingtown and talk to Mike Allen, he's like average sized and kinda built with a basically shaved head. He's my neighbors son. Super nice guy and tell him Dolan "That guy that lives around the corner from your dad with that lifted Jeep" sent you in for a deal :cheers:
I plan on getting my new tires there when I get the funds. They're good people down there
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
Dolan, man it's good to see you pop in now and then. Wish we saw more of you.
Beemerboy
Just One More Coat
Thanks Dolan will do!
LikeaRock
...Dreaming on an E92....
Thanks :bigups
I kind of got out of the detailing gig which is one reason why I haven't been on much, and life in general has been crazy. But I guess that's no reason to be a stranger around these parts
Anyway I'll stop hi-jacking the thread now :notme:
And Dave- If you talk to Mike let me know how it works out. I've got to go talk to him anyway about meats for my Heep
Beercan31
New member
Do you Really know TIRES?
We all, all to often voice our opinions about a trie Manfacture becouse we had trouble with a spicifc tire, this is stereo typical bias. so please let me try to educate you what to look for and help you with you decision in buying/ordering your tires.
First thing we need to know is how wide is your RIM this is a measurement made with OUT the tire on or with a tool that measures the rim at the point where the tire seats.... this width will tell you how and what options you have for tire section. for example if you have a rim width of 6" you can NOT get a tire size that will have a rim with of 7"8"9"ect.. if you do so you will effect the cornering drastically and dangerously..
we all at some point in time up size our tire.. what you should know is the tire size in on the DOOR STICKER is manufacture recommended.. if for some you do decide to size up take in account that if God forbid anything ever happens and there is a fatal in an accident you are in involved in this change makes you liable.
reading a tire size
for this I will be working with a tire size of 255/75R17.
the first Letter if present depicts the service use Ex. P = Passenger, LT = light truck, "T" trailer use only, M&S Mud and Snow LIGHT use.. M&S does NOT mean off roading is just means it will work slightly well in those environments.
Following the letter, if there is one, are three numbers that give the tire's cross-section width in millimeters. For example, 225 means that the tire measures 225 millimeters across, from the widest part of the outer sidewall to the widest part of the inner sidewall. this is NOT the tread width on the road. The measurement is taken when the tire is mounted on a wheel of a particular size.
The next two numbers tell you the ratio of the tire's height to its width. For example, a 75 indicates that the height, measured from the tread to the rim, is 75 percent of the cross-section width.
To convert millimeter measurements to inches, divide the number by 25.4, which is the number of millimeters per inch. For example, if you divide 225 millimeters by 25.4, you arrive at 8.86 inches, which is the cross-section of the tire in the example. To determine the sidewall height, which is 50 percent of the width, divide 8.86 inches by 2, which equals 4.43 inches.
Next is another letter that gives you information about how the tire is constructed. An "R" means radial, which is the most commonly used type of tire. "D" indicates a diagonal inner construction; these tires are used as spares and for light-duty trucks. "B" means the tire is belted, with reinforcing belts under the treads. Belted tires are generally not used anymore. An "F" following any of these letters means that the tire is a "run-flat." This extra designation isn't mandatory and might not be marked on your tires
The final two numbers and one letter indicate the tire's load-bearing capacity and speed rating, which have been mandatory since 1991. The numbers are assigned according to an index, wherein the lowest rating, 71, equals 761 pounds, and the highest rating, 110, equals 2,337 pounds. The letter is assigned according to the tire's maximum speed capability. For example, an "L" indicates 75 mph or 120 kph, while a "V" denotes 149 mph or 240 kph
NOW if your not asleep yet this next step is utmost important and it will tell you how old the new tire is... you you can buy a brand new 3-4 year old tire.
Look for the Tire Identification Number branded on the sidewall of the tire to determine the tires age. The Tire Identification Number is preceded by DOT, which stands for Department of Transportation, and is 10 to 12 digits in length. You may have to check both sides of the tire to find the complete Tire Identification Number.
Locate the last three or four digits of the Tire Identification Number. Previous to 2000, three digits determined the tire age. Tires made since 2000 use four numbers to determine a tires age
Determine the year the tire was manufactured by decoding the last two digits. For example, if the last two digits are "07", then the tire was manufactured in 2007
Determine the week the tire was manufactured by decoding the first two numbers that makeup the last four digits in the Tire Identification Number. For example, if the last four digits of the Tire Identification Number are 2807, then the tire was manufactured during the 28th week of 2007.
Determine the year the tire was manufactured by decoding the last digit of the Tire Identification Number. For example, if the last digit is "3", then the tire was manufactured during the 3rd year of the decade. The problem with this system was that you could not determine during which decade the tire was made.
Determine the week the tire was manufactured by decoding the first two numbers that makeup the last three digits in the Tire Identification Number. For example, if the last three digits of the Tire Identification Number are 403, then the tire was manufactured during the 40th week of 1993 (or 1983).
Shop for newly manufactured tires by decoding the Tire Identification Numbers. A good rule of thumb is to purchase tires that are less than six years old for optimum safety
Board yet?
good luck
We all, all to often voice our opinions about a trie Manfacture becouse we had trouble with a spicifc tire, this is stereo typical bias. so please let me try to educate you what to look for and help you with you decision in buying/ordering your tires.
First thing we need to know is how wide is your RIM this is a measurement made with OUT the tire on or with a tool that measures the rim at the point where the tire seats.... this width will tell you how and what options you have for tire section. for example if you have a rim width of 6" you can NOT get a tire size that will have a rim with of 7"8"9"ect.. if you do so you will effect the cornering drastically and dangerously..
we all at some point in time up size our tire.. what you should know is the tire size in on the DOOR STICKER is manufacture recommended.. if for some you do decide to size up take in account that if God forbid anything ever happens and there is a fatal in an accident you are in involved in this change makes you liable.
reading a tire size
for this I will be working with a tire size of 255/75R17.
the first Letter if present depicts the service use Ex. P = Passenger, LT = light truck, "T" trailer use only, M&S Mud and Snow LIGHT use.. M&S does NOT mean off roading is just means it will work slightly well in those environments.
Following the letter, if there is one, are three numbers that give the tire's cross-section width in millimeters. For example, 225 means that the tire measures 225 millimeters across, from the widest part of the outer sidewall to the widest part of the inner sidewall. this is NOT the tread width on the road. The measurement is taken when the tire is mounted on a wheel of a particular size.
The next two numbers tell you the ratio of the tire's height to its width. For example, a 75 indicates that the height, measured from the tread to the rim, is 75 percent of the cross-section width.
To convert millimeter measurements to inches, divide the number by 25.4, which is the number of millimeters per inch. For example, if you divide 225 millimeters by 25.4, you arrive at 8.86 inches, which is the cross-section of the tire in the example. To determine the sidewall height, which is 50 percent of the width, divide 8.86 inches by 2, which equals 4.43 inches.
Next is another letter that gives you information about how the tire is constructed. An "R" means radial, which is the most commonly used type of tire. "D" indicates a diagonal inner construction; these tires are used as spares and for light-duty trucks. "B" means the tire is belted, with reinforcing belts under the treads. Belted tires are generally not used anymore. An "F" following any of these letters means that the tire is a "run-flat." This extra designation isn't mandatory and might not be marked on your tires
The final two numbers and one letter indicate the tire's load-bearing capacity and speed rating, which have been mandatory since 1991. The numbers are assigned according to an index, wherein the lowest rating, 71, equals 761 pounds, and the highest rating, 110, equals 2,337 pounds. The letter is assigned according to the tire's maximum speed capability. For example, an "L" indicates 75 mph or 120 kph, while a "V" denotes 149 mph or 240 kph
NOW if your not asleep yet this next step is utmost important and it will tell you how old the new tire is... you you can buy a brand new 3-4 year old tire.
Look for the Tire Identification Number branded on the sidewall of the tire to determine the tires age. The Tire Identification Number is preceded by DOT, which stands for Department of Transportation, and is 10 to 12 digits in length. You may have to check both sides of the tire to find the complete Tire Identification Number.
Locate the last three or four digits of the Tire Identification Number. Previous to 2000, three digits determined the tire age. Tires made since 2000 use four numbers to determine a tires age
Determine the year the tire was manufactured by decoding the last two digits. For example, if the last two digits are "07", then the tire was manufactured in 2007
Determine the week the tire was manufactured by decoding the first two numbers that makeup the last four digits in the Tire Identification Number. For example, if the last four digits of the Tire Identification Number are 2807, then the tire was manufactured during the 28th week of 2007.
Determine the year the tire was manufactured by decoding the last digit of the Tire Identification Number. For example, if the last digit is "3", then the tire was manufactured during the 3rd year of the decade. The problem with this system was that you could not determine during which decade the tire was made.
Determine the week the tire was manufactured by decoding the first two numbers that makeup the last three digits in the Tire Identification Number. For example, if the last three digits of the Tire Identification Number are 403, then the tire was manufactured during the 40th week of 1993 (or 1983).
Shop for newly manufactured tires by decoding the Tire Identification Numbers. A good rule of thumb is to purchase tires that are less than six years old for optimum safety
Board yet?
good luck