Dan79 said:
I'm planning on getting a UDM soon. I'm just a little confused about what pads and stuff I need.
Get your pads and polish with the UDM,.. on autogeek you can usually find package deals for a few hundred that include most of what you need and you can buy the extras on the side.
I have had a UDM for a little while now, and it is amazing imo.
My car is a black 2007 Dodge Charger SRT8 and there's only a swirl here and there but overall pretty good. I do have some water spots on the roof and a small amount on the trunk and hood. I'd also like to get the wife's 2000 Taurus looking good.
Well, since you want to work on the 2000 car, you will want to get some more agressive pads and polishes that you wouldn't use on your Charger.
Since I just got it June 30th last year, I wouldn't think I'd want to get too aggressive. What color and how many LC pads should I get as a starter supply? It sounds like you use the same pads with the same product over and over and just clean them each time? Also, I saw some LC 5.5" pads on sale for $5 so will I be perfectly fine with 5.5" pads instead of 6.5" with my UDM? The 6.5" aren't on sale and are 2x the price.
On the charger -- I would use a white LC pad with first a fine swirl remover, and if it doesn't get them out, change polish to an intermediate swirl remover. You can also change pads, from white to orange and keep the fine swirl remover to see if a change in pad cut would get them out on the charger. Then you may or may not have to use a finishing polish with a Grey or Blue LC pad. (Both basically the same) -- Used for applying wax/glazes/sealants/etc.
I would go with something like this:
From least agressive to most:
1 - LC Grey
1 - LC Blue
(The grey and blue can be interchanged for the same products, good to have two for different products.. You don't want to put two products on the same pad. Each pad needs to be dedicated (forever) to the first product applied to it).
2 - LC White
3 - LC Orange
2 - LC Yellow
You get fairly agressive with the Orange, and if you get the more expensive pads they won't tear up as fast.. the cheap pads will. but think of differing products, and the one product per pad rule. Also that you are experimenting right now, and will likely change out products a few times at first.
Autogeek send 4 Orange Orange pads by wolf, that work fine, but a a bit on the cheap side for durability. (With kits).
On your charger you would use White on down.
On the taurus you would use at least Orange on down, and possibly Yellow on some spots, or entire vehicle. All depends on level of marring/swirls. Its good to have them though, but you can get by with just Orange as your highest cutting pad if you are tight on money.
As for your Pad size question. yes, 5.5" pads are just fine. The size is so you can cover more area at one time. Speeds things up. The smaller the pad the more efficient it will break down the compound (to a slight degree..) .. For instance a 6.5" isn't going to cut/break as well as a 4" of the same type.
So bottom line, go with 5.5" save the money.
Other things to consider are a spur for cleaning (not really needed). -- Some dedicated pad cleaner and conditioner. I find this handy,.. especially the conditioner (you spray it before use, and during use) -- I think you can use some QD instead, so you don't have to get this, but it isn't that much. The cleaner is just a pad cleaner chemical, I got the package with both bottles.. it works fine.
Though you can clean them in a bucket of warm water and soap.. lightly pressing them together (not wringing them, or the velcro will be compromised) -- Do this well, and then let them air dry. Once dry, ziplock the pads and label the bag with the product used on the pad.
Also, you could consider a 2 and 1/4" backing plate which will be perfect for the 4" pads,.. which are great for windows , small places the bigger pads can't get to, and getting tough spots (and touch up work). But on a budget, this really isn't necessary to start.
but in this line of work it is much, much better to start with an initial investment that gives you more than you need than coming up short on something mid way through your job. It is pricey, but after the initial investment you are set for a while, and new pads, chemicals won't be much down the road.
How about polish? Currently I've only put DG 105, Aquawax, and FC&S on my car. I was looking at the Sonus Paintwork Cleanser.
Polish is anyone's game -- Just read the forum and pick what you like.
Optimum, Menzerna, XMT, Zaino, etc, etc are all great brands, take one of the known, and well repped brands and pick your polishes.
Sonus is a great brand.. If you go with the cleanser, go with the 2-3 step system. Get the intermediate cutting, and the steps between all the way to the finishing polish, -- it will come in a kit.
Consider a glaze as well. I personally think DWG is the best out there, but that is subject to opinion. Some like Zaino, some Meguiers.
Then you have your Sealants and waxes. I like a cheap product for my sealant and wax. NXT 2.0, relatively cheap.. under 20$. Alot like it as well.. I have hundreds of dollars in other chemicals and equipment, and a 15$ sealant heh. But if it works , it works.
Hope that helped you out some,.. and again get enough of what you need, don't go short -- especially on the number and type of pads.
You *could* not get both grey and blue.. Get one or the other, I'd say blue. But make sure you get two of them, unless you absolutely know you will only be using one product with them.
But for example, if you use a glaze, you'll want to use the blue, then your sealant, your blue, then your wax (if you want to wax over seal) your blue.
Of course anything you apply with blue can be done by hand, but you get the point.
Expect to pay about 250-300$ For a good setup, including you polishes and all pads. On the cheap side you can get away with $200, on the higher side with a bit extra, ~300$ side.
Do it! All the popular kids are!