General wetsanding question

Holyghostfilled

New member
Inquiring to know how many actually wetsand and determine when they need to?

Also, I've heard of Meg Unigrit is one of the best....just wondering why it's not available online nor our sponsors? Are they just not in demand?

Just curious...

:ghost
 
On Factory original paint, I would only wet sand a complete vehicle, if I absolutely had to. Sometimes it is very difficult to get all of the sanding marks out of the factory paint. On repaints, within 24-48 hours is the best time to wetsand and buff. The paint works up really easy in this time frame.
That said ....
I usually will work out scratches in the finish by wetsanding with 2000 grit paper. I have found that I can control how much paint is being removed and in which area, easier than by just buffing with a more abrasive compound. When you do wet sand a scratch or any other defect you have to blend it in somewhat. What happens is that you are removing some or all of the orange peel of the paint and you can end up with an area that is perfectly smooth right against an area that has a lot of orange peel. This many times looks worse than the defect that you removed from the paint.
I haven't used Meguiar's uni-grit paper, but have heard many good reports about its quality. I usually use 3-M's wet and dry paper ... available at most auto body supply stores.
 
I always make it a pact that wetsanding (i.e. colorsanding) is a final resort. There is just too much risk and uncertainty involved. It's definitely not something I would suggest for the weekend detailer :nono

I personally apprenticed at a bodyshop to learn how to wetsand and do rotary work. This was an invaluable piece of information in my business.

I too use the Meg's Unigrit. I think they last longer than the 3M papers I used at the bodyshop and since, and you can really tell how much more evenly your sanding marks are with them as well. :bigups

As for availablity....not a large demand for such a risky task~~
 
Back
Top