Fresh paint safe ???

Thanks for the tip. That`s great news. My black Lacrosse will probably be done next week after having the entire left side and hood painted. I`d already planned on doing some polishing with either Optimum Finish Polish, HD Polish or M205, depending on the severity of the rotary holograms. I do have OCW on the shelf, so being able to apply some protection is a relief.
Leave it to Dr.G to have a compatible product. How in the world were you able to find out it was safe for fresh-baked paint?

Bill

Bill -
Glad to hear your Buick is coming back sometime soon..
I have just used a lot of Optimum Finish Polish on my black Grand Cherokee with my Makita 9227C, Lake Country Tangerine Hydro-Shreds, and it came out just beautifully clear and glossy...

Was a very easy finishing polish to use - I think if I needed correction that was too severe for this, then I would try Optimum Hyper-Polish first and then finish it with the Finish Polish..

As you know, these products are going to keep working until you back down, and then will finish even more beautifully..
Good Luck !
Dan F
 
With regard to applying OCW on fresh paint;
This comes from the Optimum forum, right from the Doctor.

"Hi Dr. G- I know you did work for PPG in the past. I am curious as to what your opinion is on waxing/sealing fresh paint and why. Thanks for your reply.


Brad,

Thank you for bringing up this question. There is a great deal of confusion regarding polishing or waxing fresh paint. The majority of refinish paint supplied by PPG, Dupont, Sherwin Williams, and BASF (which covers over 90% of the market) is two component polyurethane paint. One component is polyisocyanate and the second component is polyol (acrylic polyol or polyester polyol). Whether these are waterborne (due to EPA requirements) or solvent borne (majority of what is still being used) once the two components react and form a polymer it is not affected by most solvents (with the exception of paint removers such as methylene chloride).

As far as polishing goes, factory paint is baked and cured rapidly and is polished as it comes out of the paint booth. Refinish paint is generally not baked and is polished within a day of being painted. So polishing paint that is at least a day old is perfectly fine.

While refinish paint is about 90% cured within 24 hours, it does take up to 30 days for it to fully crosslink and cure. During this period, using solvent based waxes and sealants is not ideal since the solvents penetrate the paint and soften it and if the wax or sealant contains abrasives (the white powdery residue that is wiped off), it can cause micro marring on the softened paint. The best products to use during this period are therefore water based systems that are abrasive-free.

To sum these up, on paint that is less than one month old, you can use water based waxes or sealants that have no petroleum solvents or abrasives (leave no powdery residue). I hope that answers your question.

David, "

Bill
 
How in the world were you able to find out it..[OCW]... was safe for fresh-baked paint?
Bill

IIRC..(this was a while ago)..I was tipped off by Ron Ketcham. His work with AutoInt/ValuGard involved a lot of work with the major automakers, incl. Ford and he directed me to a TSB about it. *Somebody* got me pointed towards that TSB and I can`t imagine it being anybody else, just can`t recall for certain.

And yeah...might oughta wait to polish it until it finishes hardening up, which IME can take an awfully long time even with the current-tech paints.
 
IIRC..(this was a while ago)..I was tipped off by Ron Ketcham. His work with AutoInt/ValuGard involved a lot of work with the major automakers, incl. Ford and he directed me to a TSB about it. *Somebody* got me pointed towards that TSB and I can`t imagine it being anybody else, just can`t recall for certain.

And yeah...might oughta wait to polish it until it finishes hardening up, which IME can take an awfully long time even with the current-tech paints.

I`m gonna wait the specified time.
 
Probably nothing. This way I followed their instructions to a "t".

Gotcha, Centralized Responsibility and all that. Just don`t let birds/etc. cause any etching on that unprotected paint. (Heh heh, as if *you* would let [nasty stuff] dwell on it for long...)
 
Once I get mine back, I figure I`ll be spending free time over the first week or so trying to get the interior back to my standards, since it has been spending some time in the shop with a door off. Many of the parts, such as front bumper, hood, LF fender are already painted, so they will have cured for a week or so before the door and LR quarter panel see the paint booth. I`ve spent enough years in the car business to know you don`t have to wait for a body-shop safe polish, but I`ll be using only OCW as a wax for at least the first month.

Thanks for the info, Accumulator. Your info, combined with Dr.G`s comments, carries more weight with me than all the old wive`s tales I`ve heard over the years in body shops. I remember years ago, I had a painter tell me to polish new paint with nothing other than cornstarch.

Bill
 
Billy Jack- Yeah, I`ve had to, uhm....educate...a lot of otherwise expert body/paint guys about this subject, sometimes quoting the Paint Manufaturers` info...stuff I might`ve assumed they`d know better than I do. Guess it`s the upside to having had SOOO much paintwork done over the years :o
 
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